Review: Design Essentials Time Release Relaxer

Design Essentials brand has reformulated all of their relaxer systems. Pictured is the Honey Nectar Time Release Regular strength. I began offering this Time Release version in March 2011. I did not want to do an immediate review of the product until I had used it repeatedly. I have learned over the years that first time success with a product does not reflect if it is a "keeper" or not. I have enough clients on this relaxer and have repeatedly gotten positive enough results to say that I plan to keep this relaxer around.

The Benefits:
1) This sodium hydroxide relaxer is great for those with sensitive scalps and extra-kinky hair that want a straighter result than what the Paul Mitchell Super strength relaxer gives. (Please see my separate articles on Paul Mitchell relaxers.)
2) The sodium hydroxide(lye) is buffered so that there is a delay in straightening the hair. This delay gives the stylist more time to part through kinky curly new growth without popping the hair.
3) The Design Essentials Honey Nectar Time Release relaxer is still considered a regular strength relaxer so if straightness is what you want, then it will get you there eventually. It does permananently soften the hair (i.e. little to no reversion in high humidity) if you process it long enough.

The Disadvantages:
4)It is still a regular strength relaxer so if you are color-treated (i.e. demi-permanent or permanent color) then you should not use anyone's regular strength relaxer. Design Essentials does not really offer a mild strength relaxer. Please consider Fiberguard Affirm relaxer system for color treated hair. Please see my separate article on this brand. If you are color treated and sensitive scalp, then I still do not have a definite relaxer recommendation yet. Sorry. Please consider discontinuing the color services or go to a "one-step, squeeze bottle, semi-permanent" color for less resistant gray hair.
5)Remember: There is a delay in this relaxer processing so I would make sure that your hairline gets the relaxer by the halfway mark as far as your timing is concerned. If you apply the relaxer to the hairline last, then the relaxer may not stay on long enough to straighten all the way. Again, this concern is for those who have overcurly, hard to part, kinky, Type 4 curl pattern new growth. If you are just a Type 3 curly pattern, but have a sensitive scalp, then apply relaxer to new growth as you normally do as quickly as you can with hairline last. Then smooth.
6) Because this relaxer is regular strength, I recommend roller set services in lieu of blow-dry services. Also, I recommend a seven to ten week wait between relaxer touch-ups. Also, please use a curling iron versus a flat iron if you decide to do any heat styling at home.
8/1/11 UPDATE: 7) I question the tensile strength of the hair after using the Design Essentials Time Release relaxer. It reminds me of the Phytospecific relaxer results. I just tried the Chi Deep Brilliance relaxer and loved it. I could immediately tell that the hair was overall stronger in tensile strength with the Chi relaxer; however, straightness and scalp sensitivity - I am still evaluating. I need a few more months. I wrote a brief article on the Chi relaxer. I will further update it as I use it more.

NOTE: According to the MSDS sheet that I found online, I believe the sodium hydroxide percentage of the Design Essential Time Release relaxer is at 2.2 which is the same as their regular strength relaxer. I attempted to talk to a company representative. After about two weeks, I received a return call from the company from one of the educators (i.e. another cosmetologist), and I could tell that she was reading from a book. She seemed easily confused when I was trying to compare their different relaxers that Design Essentials offered. I wished that I could have talked to a more technical person or a chemist, but it took two or more weeks just to get "an educator" on the line. Regardless, for those not color-treated, but have a sensitive scalp and need a relaxer strong enough to straighten versus texturize - then this is it! Thank you Design Essentials!

Hair tips for Swimmers!

This article was at a special request. It made a lot of sense to me because the hot weather usually equals pool and beach parties!!!

First of all, Pre-treat the hair! Please see my separate article on "pre-shampoo" treatments as well as my article on "organic coconut oil." These products should strengthen hair and not wash away in the water.

After the swim, if your hair does NOT tangle, then clarify the hair by using Pureology Purify shampoo.
You can read the Pureology Purify shampoo benefits here.
If your hair does tangle easily or become unmanageable, then do not use the clarifying shampoo. Instead use Uans crema conditioner as a shampoo. Pictured is the new packaging.
Pictured here is the old Uans Crema moisturizing condiitoner.
Pictured is the benefits of this conditioner. It is still important to pre-treat the hair before getting into the water, and then choosing the right after care regimen based on your hair's manageability.

Detox Regimen to soften "Hard hair!"

Most of the time, hard hair can mean a calcium buildup from no-lye relaxers or too much protein. KeraCare has demineralization wipes that when used properly, really soften the hair. The formal name of this service is Demineralizing Treatment.
Yes, the wipe looks like a baby wipe , but notice the pH of 7.0 in the picture above. This is a neutral pH. Typically, you need four wipes. One for each quadrant of the head. So divide your hair into four sections and subsection each section as you wipe the hair in the direction of the cuticle. Wipe Down; not up. Of course, it is best that you clarify the hair with a chelating shampoo first, then towel blot the hair before you begin to wipe.
Paul Mitchell Shampoo Two is a good deep cleansing shampoo. Only one lather is needed and not too heavy on the pump. A little goes a long way! After your hair is squeaky clean, then use a "seamless" comb to part into four sections. As you begin to wipe each section with a fresh wipe, then the hair should start to soften. Use your "seamless" comb as a judge as whether the wipes are working by the ease of the comb through. Remember one section at a time. Please see my separate article on seamless combs.

After detoxing the whole head, it is best to go back into a hydrating shampoo and moisturizing conditioner. The Onesta brand is recommended for moisture. (Hydrating Shampoo and Moisture Balancing Conditioner) Style as usual. Please see my separate article on the Onesta brand.

3-inch Jumbo Magnetic Hair Rollers

Three-inch magnetic rollers deliver volume and body to long, straight hair. This photo of Elizabeth Hurley is from www.shampooandset.com.
Magnetic rollers are called magnetic because wet hair clings to the plastic. So as you roll, if the hair starts to dry, then use water to re-wet it in order for it to cling.
The magnetic rollers range in sizes up to about 3 inches.
Rollers this size should be double clipped. Notice the clips? Roller pins as seen in the picture below can also be used. Roller pins are extra long bobby pins.
This picture of the back of a roller set client is from www.shampooandset.com It gives you an ideal of roller placement and the use of a net to hold the rollers in place. Also, look closer at the anchoring of the rollers. Can you see that two roller pins are used to hold the rollers in place? More than likely, the hair on the rollers are rolled as a flip set in order to keep the roots flat. Please see my separate article on flip roller sets.

My salon has a large inventory of 3-inch rollers for long hair services.

Review: Fanci-full Foam for Grey hair coverage

The new foam version of the Fanci-full Temporary Rinse/Leave-in works GREAT!!!! It is a "home run!" Just put the appropriate color foam in and distribute into the hair. Then add the liquid Fanci-full leave-in. The hairline coverage holds like a new color touch-up! My clients are loving it! The new Fanci-full foam can be found in Sallys Beauty Supply.
Alert! Make sure you are not buying old product. The one with the pointy lid is old packaging and may be a little runny because it is old. I purchased the old packaging from a Black beauty supply store. The consistency was not as thick as the ones that I bought from Sally Beauty Supply. I believe Sally Beauty Supply has better product turnover so it is fresher. The rounded "lift" top is the newest packaging with the freshest product.