Hair from my last detangling session!

I saved this hair from my last detangling session on my very own head of hair. Hopefully, you can see why my Sisterlocks will probably "settle" or "lock" within six months or less! Knots, knots, knots.

So I am still anxiously awaiting my whole head of Sisterlock application. I am still about three weeks away from the special two day session! In the meantime, I have been allowing as many people who want to learn about SisterLocks to touch and feel my sample SisterLock bundle.

Their comments have tickled me. I had some to ask: how are they attached to the scalp? I proudly say "That's my hair; there is no extensions mixed in." Their return response:"Oh" followed by more questions of about the future maintenance of the Sisterlocks.

On a separate note, please feel free to check out the July 2012 SisterLock Homecoming event!

Platform hair dryer hood

I noticed that a few clients would have areas where their roller set was not drying evenly. After examining the dryer hood, I realized that there are a few areas on the hood that do not have holes for the hot air to flow through. Can you see the two areas in the hood that I am speaking of? Maybe they were supposed to be built in "ear protectors?" Well, I adjusted the hood by rotating as seen in the picture to the left, and it improved my drying time for my roller set clients. You never know what little things can make a difference!

Wrapp-It Styling Strips: Black versus White

These wrap styling strips come in handy for wet wrap molding of short hair and keeping the hairline molded for longer length wet wraps while under the platform hair dryer.

Typically, the wide styling strips come in the colors of black or white. So when do you choose the black color versus the white color? If the client has gray hair or light colored hair, then the white color is best. The black strip could possibly bleed into the hair thereby staining it.

If all else fails, buy the white strips. They can be used on everyone regardless of hair color.

Best Dry and Itchy Shampoo: Essations Tea Tree Shampoo

The Essations Tea Tree Solutions Dry and Itchy Scalp Shampoo is so wet that you can easily apply it to the scalp as a preshampoo. It has camphor and menthol in it. I sometimes use it to "self-cleanse" the scalp for those with braided sew-ins in order to eliminate loosening up the braids.

This shampoo is also moisturizing. After rinsing it out of the hair, your scalp feels much cleaner without stripping too much life from the actual hair.

When using as a pre-shampoo, apply and massage into scalp and let it sit for about 30 minutes before rinsing out. No heat necessary.

A Good Hairstylist must look, smell, talk, listen, feel and think!

I had a client come in for a relaxer service. I felt that I could smell "Sulfur 8 hairdressing" in her hair so I asked the client "are you using any sulfur based products?" She said "NO." I then reworded my question. "Have you ever used Sulfur 8 hairdressing before?" Then the client said "yes, about six days ago." So then I had to explain how Sulfur based products and relaxer services do not go well together. I declined her the relaxer service, and we had to shampoo and press out the roots. She still left with a great hairstyle and scheduled for another week for a relaxer service.
This was a perfect example where hairstylists need to know their "product smells," use their common sense, talk and listen to the client before peforming any chemical service.
Another example where hairstylist need to be cautious is with "permanent haircoloring." The clients sometimes think that because they "re-colored" their hair back to its original "dark" color that it is not color-treated. Once hair has been permanently altered by lightener or permanent haircolor, it is still considered "color-treated" hair no matter what rinse you put on top of it. A mild relaxer strength is the only strength of relaxer recommended for color-treated hair. Sometimes a hairstylist has to feel for excessive dryness in the hair ends in order to get a feel for whether the client has been experimenting with hair color. Again, using your sense of feel comes in handy.
Also, if the client is over age 40, and you do not see not one single strand of gray hair, then you can safely assume they are coloring or rinsing their hair. If it does not feel dry to touch then it may be a semi-permanent color, but if you feel any roughness, then it is probably a demi-permanent or a permanent color or a henna.
Henna and relaxers are non-compatible. I was told there are some body art grade hennas that are safe to use with a relaxer, but I would not risk it!

November 2012 update:  I just had a new client to come in wanting her sideburn areas relaxed because they were too frizzy.  I explained to her that frizz could come from damage to the hair.  If that is the case, relaxing damaged hair is not going to resolve the frizz.  We opted to cut the sideburn areas down without the chemical processing.  I also introduced her to the Silk Elements edging gel.  Her loose curl pattern molded down nicely.  The haircut was the perfect solution.  It can still be relaxed at a later date if she so chooses.  She is trying to stick with the "press and curl" procedure for her entire head.  If I was really focussed on making the money off of the relaxer service, then I would have relaxed her sideburns, and then I may have still cut it down.  However, for me, I know that relaxers can be more damaging to the scalp, and I felt that she already had some reservations about full relaxer services.  So I decided that the extra revenues that I could earn from a relaxer service was not necessarily the best solution to the frizziness that the client was wanting to eliminate.  The client really appreciated me giving her my professional opinion as well as presenting her with reasonable options and giving her time during our consultation to make an informed decision as to her next step. Mission accomplished.

Product Review: Renpure Organics Conditioner Color Protecting

This little neon green egg shaped packaging caught my attention in my local Harris Teeter grocery store. The "CLEARANCE PRICING" on the shelf for the whole product line also caught my attention. After reading the ingredients on this Color Protecting Deep Deep Deep Conditioner, I found plenty of glycerin and palm oil as well as some other great ingredients. It smelled fresh enough to experiment with so I bought it.

I used it a few times here and there, and I felt it worked pretty good with softening and detangling hair. It has a distinguished fruity smell that makes you alert to the use of the product. It does not smell bad but distinct enough to make anyone ask what is that conditioner that you are using?

The Renpure Organics product line uses liquified fruits and flowers. This also worried me about allergy proned clients. I only used this conditioner sparingly through the ends of the hair being careful not to overindulge at the roots where the scalp could be sensitive to it. It is a paraben free and sulfate free conditioner. It seems to be designed with "healthy hair" in mind.

Overall, it was working well with the clients' hair as an instant conditioner without any heat applied. So I went back to Harris Teeter to buy a few more at the clearance price, and they were all gone. Well, it's all good! At least, I got to try it!

SisterLocks, Nappy Locs, Inter Locs, Latch Locs!

Well, these are my sample SisterLocks underneath my "protective styling!" I completed my Sisterlock consultation today with a certified SisterLocks technician. She "sisterlocked" these 8 to 10 locs. I have to take care of them for the next few weeks to see how discipline I am before I get the whole head completed.
I also had an Inter Loc consultation with another hairstylist.
I also researched and researched about all of these locking patterns and methods. I found a nappyloc tool that was shaped differently from the SisterLock tool. I watched an Interlocking youtube video that transformed a straight hair mannequin into a loc by rotating a tool. So locking relaxed hair is definitely not a problem.
If you want to go swimming after a loc tightening, then SisterLocks and any other interlocking method will allow you to do so. Palm rolling does not allow that freedom.
I know that I am all over the place with this article. I hope that this can tell you how excited I am about my sample locks. They are soooooo beautiful. I love them! I see the light at the end of the tunnel. I see freedom of hair and naturally long lengths.
This light also came with a reality check . . . The initial cost is $750.00 (seven hundred and fifty US dollars) Good Lord Almighty! The consultant said that my hair had a lot of length on it, and that I had a big head. Well, I took her comment as saying that I have long hair and that I am highly intelligent! (smile)
She also said that it takes the average person a year for their locks to mature. Based on my "naps" - she said it will probably only take about six months for me. Did not I tell you that I had some extremely kinky hair? Well, it's official! All of my extremely nappy hair is finally going to work in my favor! Halleujah!!!! Praise God! "Doing the happy dance!"
By going to a certified SisterLocks consultant, I had to watch two SisterLock videos. I was very pleased to learn about the origin of SisterLocks. The founder was not a cosmetologist but a "College professor." Oh my God, her conclusions were exactly as my conclusion. Our Black people can not get ahead because our hair holds us back! Okay, if you were born with "wash and go" hair - this article is not about you. "Wash and go" Sistahs have an easier road to securing jobs, husbands, and other freebie out of life. All I can say is "God blessed you." Do not take your hair for granted.
I was also very happy to complete my consultation because keeping my hair detangled was literally become a beast with all of my new growth plus relaxer on the ends.
God bless this woman!!!! She told me that I do not have to try to keep my hair detangled anymore. She wants a "head full of naps" when she puts my Sisterlocks in. What?????? A head full of naps is good?! Oh yeah! I was on Cloud 9 - a head full of naps is what she wants -- then a head full of naps is what she will get! I can handle that with my eyes closed! (Smile)
SisterLocks really won me over! It will cost me $100 every four weeks and about 3 hours a month in time, but as beautiful as these sample locks look . . . it will be worth every last penny. I love them. It is only a few compared to the other 400 locs that need to go in, but I will able to work out and swim and still look beautiful.
The Sisterlocks consultant's hair was so beautiful - my God - within another five years or less, Kim Kardashian will need to watch out. Another long layered, thick, voluminous head of black tresses will be on the scene! Hello!
The bigger question is will I continue offering relaxer services to my kinky haired clients? Remember - the kinky hair clients are the ones that get the most scalp exposure to the relaxer application because their/our hair stays compacted at the root. It does not grow away, but curls back on itself. Please see my other article for more information.
Okay, enough said. Some of my clients are considering SisterLocks, but they are waiting on me . . . Well, I am already set to go! I have a date for my full installation. I will do a big article on my new journey within a few months. It will be worth the wait! I promise! In the meantime, I will continue to write about other hair topics dear to my heart and yours! Peace and Locs!

Turning a 45 cent investment into a 45 dollar return

You may be wondering what does a stamp have to do with hair? Well, it is a long story . . . As you know, I have been "flat iron free" for about a year and a half now - and it has been the best decision for both me and my clients that stuck with me.

Well, before I went "flat iron free" I had a client that swore that the flat iron was not healthy for her hair. I was not ready to believe this. All the hair shows were pushing "flat irons" as healthy. So eventually, she discontinued patronizing my salon. Her words as with all of my clients' feedback stuck in my head.

After finally seeing a consistent pattern of results from the use of the ionic flat irons, I stopped using them and went back to the traditional stove and marcel irons. Oh boy, I still had a learning curve to get used to the old school stove and heat, but finally, I got my rhythm and everyone is back on the right track with their hair. I am so happy of my decision and now, I cringe every time I see a flat iron being used on television or youtube video. All I am thinking is: "they are cooking their hair from the inside out" and they do not even know it. It pains me, but life will go on.

So one day recently, I decided to write this former client a nice little thank you note saying "You were right!" The flat irons are damaging to the hair. I was not ready to receive the information back then, but I sincerely appreciated her feedback. I was listening to her, and I just wanted her to know that I appreciated her past patronage.

Well, believe it or not, she came back for hair services over and over again. It turns out that she had just received a relaxer that was too strong, and she knew that I was the only hairstylist that kept a variety of treatments and product lines for all the different hair types. She was asking God for a sign of what to do next, and my "thank you" letter arrived in her mailbox.

God works in mysterious ways. After about five to six visits, her hair is back on track, and we both are happy. I hate that I was not able to fulfill her hair needs during my "flat iron" phase, but no one is perfect. I thrive for perfection, and as far as the changes that I continue to make in improving my service offerings . . . I am now on a million dollar track. Of course, I am dependent on manufacturers not to alter their products, and that I make sure I keep fresh product, but life is good in my hair world . . . a salute to healthy hair!

Schwarzkopf Hair color: A Healthier choice!

I had been wanting a healthier permanent haircolor option. I was looking for a haircolor that required the least amount of developer in its mixture. So far, Schwarzkopf Royal is working well. It is a one to one ratio of haircolor pigment to developer. It is a nice, thick creamy formula when mixed as you can see in the picture.

The Wella Color Perfect haircolor that I had been using may be too strong for relaxed hair long term. Also, it may be a little too strong for the scalp. Clients have been noticing some potentially thinner hairlines which is the first place the haircolor goes when clients are trying to color gray. The Wella color ratio was 1 to 2 with the majority of the mixture being developer.

My kinkier, relaxed clients have been put into semi-permanent, no mix haircolor to cover the gray. My less kinky, relaxed as well as natural clients will begin using the Schwarzkopf Royal formula of permanent haircolor.

Many stylist are looking to cut costs on the haircolor tubes, but I am looking for the healthiest options for my clients. The Schwarzkopf haircolor will be more expensive on my end. I will not raise my prices for the color service for maybe another year.

So far the finished results are healthy, shiny, well covered hair!

Getting ready to toss the Affirm MoisturColor!

I am tossing these partially used color tubes of Affirm Moisturcoclor. The material of the tube is either cheap or the color pigment itself is not stable. These tubes new and used just leak, leak, leak. I have been using the Wella Color Perfect line and the Goldwell Colorance lines. Neither of these brands give me any leakage problems and seem to work fine.

Keratin Treatment Alternative to try first!

I believe the price of keratin treatments have come down, but please consider spending $175 on the following products to achieve healthier hair and similar styling finish.

1) KeraCare 1st Lather Shampoo or any clarifying shampoo. 2) Pureology Nanoworks shampoo (luxury line - $55 for this one bottle, but worth it!) 3) Pureology Supersmooth condition (skip this conditioning step- if you have fine hair. The luxury shampoo has conditioner in it.) 4) Spray a generous amount of the Joico Leave-in detangler and distribute a small amount of the Pureology elixir for slip. Blow-dry. You should achieve a nice straightness. Then use Pureology Shinemax sparingly throughout and touch up any areas with a curling iron. Follow with Aquage Beyond Shine spray to tame any flyways! By the third try at this, your hair should be improving in health without all the flat ironing . . .

Why are Braids extensions equalling Breakage?

I have seen an alarming rate of women getting extreme breakage from braid extensions! It is perplexing. They are breaking all the way to the new growth in large patches.

So beware if you are thinking about getting braids to grow your hair out; then you may find that you are creating more damage.

Most of the women that have come to me for consultations have only mentioned that "braids" took their hair out. In the future, I will have to start asking which braids - kinky twists? Microbraids? Synthetic hair? Which brand of hair? to see if I can start to narrow down a more consistent pattern. Many women have been so disgusted that they barely want to speak. They just want their hair back.

I can only offer some insight or theories about what is happening:

1) The extension hair may be too heavy for your own hair if too long of length is used. Synthetic hair weighs more than Human hair, but synthetic hair is much cheaper than human hair.

2)Have the manufacturers changed the material that the synthetic hair is made from? Could the material be "cutting" into the hair strand?

3)Maybe the client's own hair has been flat ironed too much causing the actual hair strands to be weaker and unable to support the extension hair? I have warned in my articles for over a year that ionic flat irons burn the internal structure of the hair. It becomes thinner and weaker. I suggest grabbing a large barrel curling iron before grabbing a flat iron.

Whatever the case, women need to go back to the owners of the braid shops and let them know what happened! If enough people start doing this, then at least, the owner can look into what is the cause. Going to a licensed cosmetologist after the braids have broken the hair off may not do you much good. I have articles on this blog about growth serum and natural hair. Please consider reading those.

Women are feeling that they are all alone. Tell the right people - the owners of the braiding salon - in a tactful, professional way. Then consider invisible braids or shorter braid extensions on your new growth to maintain a style. Human hair is probably the safest option right now. The Gluefree Quick weave method may also be another styling option. Please see articles for that method on this blog as well.

Feel free to comment on this article if you want to share on your experience.

Five Discussion Points for your First Salon Visit

(Topic discussed: Relaxer practices and styling warnings) So you narrowed down a new salon to go to? It could have been based on a print ad . . . or just a referral . . .
Here are 5 things to discuss on your first salon visit with a new hairstylist:
1) Request that no new products will be tested on you. You only want products that are in his/her regular rotation. Strange request right? As a new customer, you really do not know what is normal or not.
Example: I went to a hairstylist that put a half of bottle of hair spritz in my hair at the finish of the style. I called her a few days later because I was curious why she uses so much "wet Spritz" in her styling, and she told me that honestly that she barely used any spritz with her clients. So I was curious why I got almost the whole bottle sprayed on my head?????? She claimed since I was shampooing every week that it did not matter, and that maybe she as a hairstylist was not a good fit for me. Great! I felt that she did not even care to keep my hair healthy.
2)Request synergy in the relaxer service components. You do not want brand name relaxer applied and "off brand" neutralizing shampoo used.
Example: I received an Affirm relaxer, but the stylist used a Fiberguard Affirm conditioner. Both the Affirm and Fiberguard Affirm classes teach not to interchange the two lines. Use all Affirm components for Affirm relaxer; Use all Fiberguard Affirm components for the Fiberguard Affirm relaxer. In addition, if you see an "off brand" generic neutralizing shampoo to be used for every relaxer to save the stylist money - RUN!!!!
3)Request no mixing for relaxers and request no mixing for haircolor at relaxer time.
Relaxers that require mixing are typically "no lye" or sensitive scalp relaxers, and they are not healthy for the scalp for long term use. In addition, any haircolor that requires an activating lotion is considered a demi-permanent color. Some looser hair types can withstand the demi-permanent color on the same day as relaxer, but it is best not to risk it!
4) Request the stylist's proficiency level in the styling procedures that you want completed.
Example: If they are round brush styling once every few months then they are not going to be as efficient as someone who is always round brushing on a daily/weekly basis. Same thing with "press and curls" and barbering. If the stylist does not straighten nor cut kinky hair on a regular basis, then the final results may not meet client expectations.

5) Request the disposal procedures for leftover relaxer. Do they dump it back into the main relaxer bucket (contaminating it) or do they trash it? God forbid they apply relaxer straight from the main relaxer bucket. Double dipping over and over again. This unsanitary practice can spread disease.

If you are paying cheap prices for relaxer services, then you may assume that the stylist may be conservative with the amount of relaxer used or that the stylist is re-depositing the leftover relaxer back in the larger tub.


There are plenty of other questions that you may typically ask such as What is the salon grade? Do they have an active License versus a "permit?" How about specific certifications? Are they good with long hair or short hair? Please feel free to keep the questions coming!

Product Review: L'Oreal EverCreme Cleansing Conditioner

Having looked at all of the Wen's infomercials, I was tempted to buy this new Cleansing Conditioner" by L'Oreal. I mainly was looking for something gentle to use on hair extensions, but let me tell you, this product has isopropyl alcohol in it. Just washing my hands with it, I could feel the cleansing factor from it. So I elected not to use it all.

The isopropyl alcohol is in the middle of the ingredient list versus the beginning; however, I really think it is best for those with an oily scalp that need to shampoo everyday.

The bottle says "for all dry hair types." In reality, those with naturally straight hair that color their hair alot may benefit the most from this cleansing conditioner.

Cotton Sateen Pillow cases

The summer heat is here! and you still want to protect your hair while you sleep in case your head scarf or satin bonnet comes off?

I was looking for a higher thread count, but Croscill is supposed to be a good brand. I paid $11 for a two pillowcase set at a Tuesday Morning store. That's about the cost of an inexpensive satin pillowcover. So I was excited about my purchase. Satin pillowcovers can cause you to sweat during the summer. So "cotton sateen" is your next best choice during the warmer summer months.

Notice the "silky finish" on the pillowcovers? This will keep your hair ends smooth and prevent the actual cotton material from absorbing too much of your hair moisture!

Mixed Bristle Brush Review: The Bulb

Examine these two brushes in the picture. Notice the vinyl bristles? The brush on the left has clear vinyl brushes with a "blunt cut" on the end. The brush on the right has white vinyl bristles with a "bulb" on its ends. Both brushes look similar at a quick glance, right? However, at a closer look from another angle, these two brushes are extremely different.

The Pureology brand mixed bristle flat brush on the right had me spoiled! It smoothed out hair effortlessly. Notice the "bulb" on the vinyl bristles? Well, that "bulb" is important for use on relaxed hair.

The "Cricket" brand mixed bristle smoothing brush on the left has soft vinyl bristles that hold heat similar to the Pureology smoothing brush, but the blunt end of the vinyl bristles on the Cricket brush prevents the hair from gliding through the brush. (i.e. It pulls the hair and holds it in place when trying to straighten out hair roots.) However, if you need to dry the rest of the relaxed strands, it may be too much tension. If you need a lot of tension on the hair, then choose the Cricket brush on the left, but also remember that damp, relaxed hair does not need a lot of tension neither does kinky curly hair because of the small diameter of the hair coils. The Denman brushes as discussed in a previous article have built-in round tips versus blunt tips. That is another reason that Denman brushes work well for smoothing hair. Please see my separate article on Denman brushes.

In addition, remember if your brush with the "bulb caps" starts to loose their "bulb ends," then it is time to throw the brush away. Notice that the Pureology white vinyl bristles have the bulbs pre-manufactured into the bristles so you do not have to worry about losing "bulb caps."

So it's best to spend extra money and buy brushes - vent brushes, paddle brushes, or smoothing brushes with the built-in bulb ends to save money and your hair in the long run! Here's to healthy, smooth hair!

Spotlight: Lugo Hair Center, Miami, FL

Commercial hair prices are still going through the roof! The price for a package of human hair has more than doubled in ten years! Unfortunately, hair bought ten years ago will probably be a little harder to sell to a consumer for full market price.

So those who are already paying $100 or more per pack in the stores, should consider purchasing from Lugo Hair Center. The hair is running about $105 per 4 ounce pack of 16 inch hair. The shipping is about $20. So for about $230 flat, you can have your two packs of beautiful human hair delivered to your home without dealing with the hair superstores.

Now, do not look for fancy packaging and tissue paper! The clean hair may be rubber banded and placed in a plain plastic shopping bag upon arrival. The hair is beautiful and looks textured like the ladies on the brochure pictured.

They offer about eight different wave/curl patterns. I have the swatches in my salon for clients to look at. "Semi Straight" is the most popular choice. It has a natural body wave or "s pattern" to it.

They also give you a list of over the counter shampoos and conditioners that they suggest you buy to maintain the hair. The hair lengths are bent over during the wefting process but the upside down cuticle on the hindside does not seem to cause any problems. There must be a special coating on the hair to keep the cuticle sealed down.

Alcohol based products may strip that coating and cause damage. Roller sets are recommended when using hair from Lugo. Also, their hair may shed a little more than "Indi-Remi" store brand. On the flip side, the wefts of the Lugo's hair are fuller, and you do not have to double the weft like the "Indi-Remi" brand. There seems to always be tradeoffs!

Relaxer Comparisons: Type 3 hair versus Type 4 hair

The relaxer chart pictured was designed by hairstylist Benita Blocker based on her experience with relaxer services.

If you read straight down the column for Type 3 hair, then you will find that the relaxation process is safe and relatively painless. In addition, Type 3 hair can wait from 8 weeks to even six months between relaxer touch-ups.

If you read straight down the column for Type 4 hair, then you will find that the relaxation process is unpredictable, challenging, and has a high potential for scalp damage as some point with continued abuse. On top of all the potential challenges, type 4 hair typically need a touch-up every six weeks just to keep from breaking because of the extreme difference in the wiry new growth compared to the previously straightened hair.

Hopefully, this chart gives everyone the same perspective about hair loss issues amongst coarser and kinkier hair types.

Design Essentials Buzz - The Good, The Bad, and the Ugly!

The Good news: McBride Research, owners of Design Essentials brand is trying to stay competitive with the market. They now have a Professional Smoothing Treatment without the formaldehyde worries. They also announced an additional foam and setting lotion designed for the naturally kinky hairstyling trend.

The Bad news: The latest reformulation of their regular strength relaxer with Shea Butter is causing some shedding issues. (Please see separate articles on Design Essentials shea butter relaxer review) I personally had to switch all of my clients that were on this new relaxer into the new Affirm mild strength relaxer. Everyone is doing much better with the new Affirm relaxer. I even had another client to come to me who had been receiving the new Design Essential shea Butter relaxer service by another hairstylist. She felt her hair was losing thickness. I told her that the problem was probably with the relaxer not the hairstylist. Again, I used the Affirm Mild relaxer, and the results were healthy and shiny.

Now, for the Ugly: Pictured is the old formula of the Design Essentials Styling Spritz. It is darker in color than the newer hypoallergenic fragrance version.

According to the feedback on the grapevine, the new version of the Design Essentials Formations styling spritz is not working the same way. Yet, the company is saying it is the same "stuff" despite the fact that the ingredients list is not the same. Pictured is the old ingredient list from the old formula/bottle. (On a side note, I have some of this old formula to sell brand new if anyone wants to get their hands on it!)

Again, another example where the manufacturer is switching up formulas on us and "messing up" our money. We as hairstylists are on the front line dealing with our clientele. These company failures are at our expense initially, and we as hairstylists have no control. Product prices are going up and the economy is steadily challenging our ability to raise service prices. In the end, we all lose sometimes before we gain . . .