Tool Review: Golden Supreme Starter Set

As you may know, I also service clients at a nearby mall. I finally bought a new set of marcels for that location. That way, I do not have to transport tools between locations. I am especially excited about this purple set because my stove is adjustable temperature. The idea is that I can keep my irons warm without overheating them. It has been about ten months since I converted to marcel irons for heat styling, and I am fully commited to them even to the point that I am denying flat iron service requests. I would rather for a client to go someone else for flat iron services than to know that I contributed to flat iron damage. Sometimes the clients feel that they know more than the hairsylist; sometimes the client does know more than the hairstylist. Case in point: Deciding which relaxer strength to use . . . I remember telling a hairstylist to use a mild strength relaxer because I knew that my scalp was very sensitive. I probably should have told her why I requested a mild strength, but about five minutes into the relaxer application, my scalp was starting to burn. I immediately asked the hairstylist, is this a mild relaxer? Her response was "no, it looked liked you needed a regular strength relaxer." Oh my God, it was not a good day! That situation happened to me in a New York hair salon. Let me not get into my long list of my own hair horror stories. I actually am dedicated to this blog because I believe knowledge is power for the stylist and the consumer.

Unfortunately, because I was a "flat iron only" hairstylist for several years . . . I have grown many ladies' hair to mid back with quality maintenance products and protective styling aids, but I also have seen some of my hard work go down the drain with continued use of flat irons at high temperatures. It is not worth the risk to me, and for those clients who relate the flat iron usage more to "hair growth," I have an uphill battle that I am willing to lose. It took me several years to give up my flat iron addiction even after I remember being told a few times to consider going back to stove and marcels. I was not ready to receive the message, then January/February 2011 (this year), the light came on. My compounding experiences with long-term flat ironing plus what I was seeing over the years really made me go "cold turkey" and I am not going back. Knowledge is power.

Tool Review: Wire Mesh Rollers

These wire mesh rollers are truly ventilated for quick drying time, but they are not "magnetic." So hair does not stick to these rollers as well as they would magnetic rollers. End paper and a stiff roller pick/pik are needed to succesfully use these rollers. The hair length needs to achieve a few revolutions around them to hold in place. I have found that these rollers do not allow curls to actually set. So if you are going for the bone straight look with a round brush finish, these rollers would be a good start!



May 1, 2013 update:  Vented Roller clamps can also be used with these wire mesh rollers to hold rollers in place.  These roller clamps are plastic and can be used with hot rollers or cold rollers.

The plastic from the roller clamp will assist with firmer sets.  Also, because the clamp is vented, it helps promote faster drying time.

Concept: Unseen heat damage

One of my recent articles stimulated discussion about whether damage can be happening without it being seen immediately. In my response, I described overheating bread in the microwave. So I decided to literally put my theory to the test.

I purchased two Kaiser rolls. Both rolls started out soft. I wrapped one in a dry paper towel and put it in the microwave. I set the microwave to about a minute and a half. I pressed the "on" button, and the roll was off to heating. At the forty-five second point, I started seeing steam. At the minute point, the microwave glass looked foggy and I smelled the bread "cooking." Finally, a very long minute and a half ended. I left the microwave untouched for about 3 minutes to write down my notes. Then I open the microwave to discover that 50% of the bread was "hard as a rock." The dry paper towel that the roll was wrapped in was then very damp. The roll got harder as it continued cooling down.

You can see the before and after pictures of the two rolls. The picture with the damp paper towel is the after picture. There is some visible change in the surface of the kaiser roll that was overcooked, but it is far from burnt. If you did not touch the roll, then no one could see a difference between the microwaved roll and the fresh roll.

I had to use a knife to cut the microwaved roll. It was dry and crumbling. The fresh roll was easy to pull apart and to eat. I did not attempt to eat the overheated roll.

I researched microwaves, and they concentrate on water molecules. "Microwaves" are "electromagnetic waves." They work based on negative and positive charges similar to flat irons. The technology in the flat irons is a little different. Please research the technology differences at your convenience.

My main point was to show that damage can happen without necessarily seeing it on the surface. I am still caution about potential unseen ionic flat iron damage.

Another "food for thought" article. Ha Ha Ha. No pun intended, but the fresh Kaiser roll was delicious!

My 2011 Holiday Hair Look

It's almost Christmas, and I was ready for the long and the glamourous look. I did not want to wear a half wig nor a full wig because they can be soooo heavy. (Remember the article on "wig weight?") So I definitely wanted to leave my top hair out; so I opted for the partial gluefree quickweave using the Morning Glory Gro-Protect Growth Serum. Placement is important. Zigzag partings always deliver a more natural blend of natural hair with commercial hair. I also added one strip of seamless weft to the top to assist with the final blending in case of a windy day! I used three different colors. #1 in the back, #1B in the crown and sides, and #4 in the front along with the #1B.

This look took about four hours because I was doing it myself. It also took a pack and a half of commercial hair. I had a two partial packs of hair already available. Even if someone else is performing the service, three hours is still reasonable to decide on the placement based on one's individual headshape.

I plan to hold on to this look until Christmas time. I am at four weeks post relaxer with a little afro at my roots. If I can wait until after Christmas, then I will be 8 weeks post relaxer. I wanted to give myself a relaxer break. The True Indulgence regular should be adequate at a eight week period.

Happy Holidays!

Product Review: Jason Apricot Shampoo and Conditioner

If you are looking for a more organic shampoo and conditioner that delivers great shine, then this is it! So far Jason Apricot Shampoo and Jason Apricot Conditioner works great on relaxed hair! The conditioner seems to superhydrate without heat. Also, the shampoo seems to enhance shine even if you use a different brand of conditioner.

Those who are allergy-prone sometimes seek for more fragrance-free, organic products. This Jason Apricot line is a combination to consider. Jason products also offer biotin based shampoo and conditioner as well as a separate fragrance-free line. Look for the Jason brand in stores like Earthfare, Healthy Home Market, and Whole Foods stores.