Four hair types revisited!

Oprah's hairstylist Andre Walker described the four hair types in his 1997 book . . .

Type 1 - straight hair
Type 2 - wavy hair
Type 3 - Curly hair
Type 4 - Overcurly to kinky hair

Type 3 and Type 4 can have smaller categories based on the diameter of your curl pattern.

If you are unsure of whether or not you are type 3 or type 4, then your frequency of your relaxer touchup can help. If you are relaxing every three to five months then you are probably Type 3. If you can barely make it to 8 weeks before you are past due for your relaxer touchup, then you are probably Type 4.

Relaxer Service: From Afro to Straight

Fresh relaxer service with a cut! Hair by Benita Blocker
Type 4c hair can shrink 75%. We measured this hair to be over 3 inches long when stretched out!
Type 4c hair means extremely overcurly and maximum shrinkage. Pressing the hair would still be difficult to manage without chemical relaxation. We made sure that she had at least 3 inches of "new growth" before relaxing it. Anything under 3 inches will eventually overprocess with relaxer touchup services. So relaxing "the afro" prior to 3 inches of growth is not ideal. 3 inches is six months of growth. Say a seven month wait to allow for reshaping/trim after the relaxer.
Client received a virgin relaxer application, roller/wet set, flat iron, and cut. Client just came out of a full sew-in hairstyle, and we did not want the added stress of a full blow dry service after the relaxer process. Some of the ends were still slightly texturized after the relaxer; so flat ironing will be needed each time to finish her look. Some Texture in the hair is a good cushion for this hair type for future relaxer touchups. Hair by Benita Blocker.

9/5/2011 Update: I have posted another article called "Hair Growth: Five Months review." This particular article gives a more detailed journey of going from Afro to Straight. Honestly, if you have a sensitive scalp, I do not know if you can get the level of straightness that you desire in one relaxer setting.

Comparing Wet and Wavy Hair Extensions

One side is remi hair at $100 per pack. The other side is mid-grade hair at $50 per pack. 2010 pricing. Can you tell? I have the remi hair braided into the front of my hair and flipped over so that you can not see it. The mid-grade hair was braided into the back and parts of the sides. I really worked to get this picture. Smile. Well, the answer is the blacker hair on the left is the remi hair, and the browner; more defined waves is the mid-grade hair. Neither packages are cheap. If take your hand and cover one side of the picture, then it will truly give you a feel for how either hair type would look all over.
These are the original packages of braiding hair used for this style. For more information, please see my invisible braiding article. Remember the colored package is mid-grade at about $50 per pack, and the black remy hair is $100 per pack. I like the softness of the remy hair. It looks soft and feels soft. The mid-grade hair is a little stiffer to the touch. I have found that the term "remi" and "remy" are constantly interchanged. I spelled it both ways in this article to assist with search criteria. To maintain this curly hair, please see my article on containing curls.

Effects of Chemicals on Hair

I wrote an article about the "effects of heat" on hair last month . . . giving an example of how egg/protein goes from liquid to solid when direct heat is applied.

Now, I want to visit the idea of Lightener, Relaxers, and Permanent Color (i.e. chemicals) and how they effect the hair by softening/loosening the hair permanently.

Lighteners (i.e. hair bleach) removes your natural pigment from your hair. The pigment that you were born with. The remaining hair is lighter in weight and is a permanent change in the hair. The strength of the lightener determines how much pigment is removed.

Permanent color removes your natural pigment from your hair and redeposits artificial pigment. Similar to the lightener, the strength of the permanent color determines how much pigment is removed and how much artificial color is redeposited.

Relaxers are designed to soften hair, smooth out texture, and neutralize into the straighter shape. Underprocessed hair will still wave up slightly which means that it is texturized. Overprocessed hair will be hard to hold a curl.

If you think of crisp vegetables like green beans or carrots or asparagus; and if you soften them by boiling them. The longer the boil; the less crisp the vegetables become. Their level of softness is permanent. If your vegetables become mushy, then you do not expect to see them crisp ever again. One would have to start with fresh raw vegetables and not overcook them. (i.e. called "new growth" in reference to our hair -- do not overprocess!) You do not want to keep starting over!

New Natural Textures products

There is a trend toward sporting more textured tresses. (i.e. Curls, twists, afros)

Mizani was one of the first to market their "natural textures" line. Now, KeraCare and Design Essentials have introduced their "natural textures" lines.

With natural hair, everyone has to embark on the journey of discovering their own product combination. Curl pattern, porosity, and overall finish is a personal choice.

KeraCare's Natural Textures line includes cleansing cream, butter cream, hair milk, Defining Custard, and more. The KeraCare online store has more information. http://avlon.com/KeraCare/natural_textures.asp

I have not tried the line yet; but I have the line in my salon for purchase.