"Black Hair" and Getting rid of the Tangles!

I often have new clients come in ready to chop, chop, chop off all of their length because of the tangles! STOP!

Before you cut off all of your hair, TREAT it! You might be surprised!

1) Start with a deep cleansing shampoo such as Paul Mitchel Shampoo one or Design Essentials Organic Cleanse.
2) Then use a sulfate free moisturizing shampoo such as Pureology Hydrate and Pureology SuperSmooth.
3)Use a pure protein treatment such as Redken CAT. (Rinsing after each step)
4) Then use a moisturizing conditioner such as Mizani Moistufuse or Mizani Silk Cream Conditioner.

You should comb through all conditioner/treatments with a large conditioning comb. It should become more manageable as the conditioner begins to work. No more tangles!

These steps should work on both relaxed and natural hair!

For blowdrying: use Alfa parf Divine Cream, a leave-in spray strengthner, and a product for slip.

Leave-in strengthner examples: Paul Brown Hawaii Treat Elite or Design Essentials HCO.

Product for slip include Paul Mitchell Super Skinny Serum or Pureology Smoothing Elixir.

Use of leave-in conditioners during blow-dry will ensure less mechanical damage.

Thinning Hair? Avoid Sensitive Scalp Relaxers!

For over a year now, I had been concluding that Sensitive Scalp Relaxers can cause thinning and dry scalp problems. It is now that I have started to convert my sensitive scalp clients to Paul Mitchell relaxers, that I see significant improvement to their hair and scalp.

Many sensitive scalp relaxers still have sodium hydroxide in its contents. The sodium hydroxide is held within a calcuim hydroxide unit. So then you have to worry about a calcium buildup after the sodium hydroxide unit is released.

Some relaxer systems use guanduiane hydroxide, etc. I believe all of the sensitive scalp relaxers leave leftovers deposits in the hair and scalp.

Also, according to www.long-healthy-hair-advisor.com/relaxers-for-black-hair.html:

Here are some of the problems with no-lye relaxers:

The chemical uses a calcium compound (calcium hydroxide) that builds up on the hair. This build-up keeps the hair from getting any moisture because it seals off the cuticle. They cause a dry scalp. They cause extremely dry hair. A "conditioning lye relaxer" is best.

Now, in my opinion, my clients that are on sodium hydroxide or "lye relaxers" have had no hair nor scalp challenges. Other words, no problems!

If you are slow to get off the sensitive scalp formulas, try using Organic Root Stimulator's Creamy Aloe Shampoo to remove buildup for regular shampoo services. Try KeraCare's Demineralization Wipes during the conditioning phase. Wipe in the direction of the cuticle. Straight Request brand also has an After Calcium conditioner.

These products should help remove buildup in the hair, but they may not be enough to treat any scalp challenges such as dry scalp and/or thinning.

My favorite lye relaxers are 1) Fiberguard Affirm (has Fiber Strengthening Complex) and 2) Paul Mitchell.

I used to think the sodium hydroxide or lye was bad because it caused people to burn, but now, I know that when it is mixed with the right conditioning ingredients versus a hydroxide derivative, the original is best!

In addition, Mild Paul Mitchell and Mild Fiberguard Affirm are safer to use more frequently on coarser hair. Every 5 to 7 weeks is good for extremely curly, coarse hair because the mild strength will only texturize it. Also, I add the Paul Mitchell SuperStrenghtener to every relaxer process as well as a Mizani Butter Blend spray and Graham Webb's Back to Basics Coconut Mango to balance out oil and moisture blend.

Yes! A lot of products, but it is worth it to have healthy, long hair!

Stylists and Smoking Cigarettes outside the Salon

First of all, employers can not discriminate because you smoke . . . but any stylist that smokes within the boundaries of the hair salon is sending a negative message.

If you have to smoke, please smoke in private where no one can see you. (Absolutely no one should see you smoking!)

You will find that you will attract more people and make more money without the cigarettes. Please give it a try!

Products that Cause Frizz in African American Hair

I have found two products thus far that cause frizz in African American hair. They
are 1) Pureology Volume shampoo and 2) Aquage Healing Conditioner.

These two products are great for those who want volume with a chance of frizz, but not for those trying to achieve a sleek, straight look.

Initially, I was trying the Pureology Volume Shampoo as a "deep cleansing" shampoo. Then I would follow up with two moisturizing shampoos. Unfortunately, there is something in the Pureology volume shampoo that stays in the hair past the conditioning phase and my clients were returning with frizz. Upon eliminating this shampoo from my routine, the frizziness went away and everyone started to normalize back to sleek again.

Now in regards to the Aquage Healing Conditioner, I liked the instant moisturizing of the hair at the shampoo bowl. I was in love with it at first use, but I noticed that it seemed to interfere with the sleek finish that I was accustom to achieving for my clients. Again, the returning client feedback was a "no go." Hairstyles did not last like they were accustom to. It created frizz.

Luckily, I incorporated these two products at different times so that I could narrow the cause of the frizziness really quickly. I am hoping that this review will help others thinking about trying these two products. After researching and comparing the ingredients of these two products, I found "alcohol" to be a common factor. I would conclude eliminating future shampoos and conditioners that have alcohol in them, but supposedly some alcohols are acceptable to allow for emusulification of the ingredients of the product. "So, go figure."

Hair and Dating

I had forgotten that the movie "Good Hair" by Chris Rock featured a man who would judge what kind of dates he would have with a woman based on her hairstyling . . . whether or not she had low or high maintenance hair . . .

Examples: 1) Riding in a convertible with the top down . . . wind and "weave" do not go together. So remember to keep a scarf around "weave free" or not. Smile.

2)Water sports and swimming are obviously for those who know how to swim and do not mind getting their hair wet. The ability to "wash and wear" your natural hair will be a big dating plus for this particular catch. Braided hairstyles also a good option.

3)Sleeping pretty . . . and waking up glamourous . . . without rollers, without scarves, etc. . . . This is the ultimate "Halle Berry" test. LOL!

On a separate note, hair and skin can make men "lose their mind!" A lot of men do not like hair extensions, but they can deal with braids. I believe that men enjoy having the freedom of touching their lady's hair. They like the illusion of having a princess or an woman that has an exotic (Indian or Ethopian) look.

The closer your image looks more natural to this exotic/prestigious look; the more men that you attract! It seems like it is always "all or nothing." You either draw every man in the room or you draw no men. Smile. Example: I decided on a invisible braids style that looked so natural that unless I actually made people look at my roots to see that I had braids at the roots, they just were clueless. I left my perimeter hairline out which further threw them off, but the response from both men and women was unbelievable. I had men slipping me phone numbers, and women all in my hair. I had some Mexican women wanting to feel my hair because it looked "long and strong." And all of that was within the first week! By week two, I was being asked out on a date.

The braiding hair used for my invisible braids hairstyle ran $110 for two packs of hair at 2010 pricing. I paid the braider $150 to put in. I cut, styled and maintained it. So $300 later . . .I had "stop traffic" hairstyling and a "making money" look! Please see my article on invisible braids.

The attention that "great hair/great skin/great image" can give you is priceless at times, but hopefully, a good relationship is not built solely on "good hair."