Okay, The movie hype is over. Chris Rock's "Good Hair" has put Jason Griggers on the map. According to Bronner Bros update in the Feb 2010 show guide, his appointment book has been expanded to months in advance with clients calling from around the country.
I remind you that Jason is a Caucasian male hair stylist that does ethnic hair. "Marcel irons" included. I found it humorous that the "Black focussed" movie actually sent business away from the "Black pockets." But it is all good! A good stylist is a good stylist!
Our Black stylists have to learn to integrate as well. Good hair stylists have to learn hair and all hair types! Embrace continued education!
Congratulations Jason!
Phenomenal . . .
Life, Growth, and Connection (This sunflower was nourished by my hands.) 2010; Photography by Benita Blocker. Please become a follower of this blog.
Wednesday, March 31, 2010
Finding a Hair Expert
When seeking a hair stylist, you can't go just by the number of years in the business. I have met quite a few hair stylists with over 15 years of being licensed, but majority of those years were part-time status.
Full-time hair stylists should work at least 40 hours a week in the hair industry. When they are not "behind the chair," they should be researching new industry trends, teaching, or being taught something new.
You really need to be looking for a stylist that is technically savvy and a thinker. Hair and Hairdressing is a lot of chemistry! You want a stylist that thinks like an engineer; not a mechanic. They all have a place in this world, but it is based on your individual needs. A technically savvy hairstylist would start with a consultation before taking you to the shampoo bowl.
A hair expert also will have learned how healthy hair feels and looks. Because hair is long does not mean that it is at its ultimate health. If a stylist knows the feel of hair, then they know that they need more than two products on their backbar. Special circumstances require special needs. For example: There are some hair types that relaxer residue will not rinse clear unless you shampoo it out. Sometimes the base may have been too heavy for the hair type, but regardless of how you get to the situation, you want a hair expert that can feel the hair and know that you may have to shampoo before conditioning. Believe it or not, there are some relaxer systems that recommend conditioning while the cuticles are open, then shampooing. I would caution against that order because there are some hair types that water alone will not rinse the relaxer completely clear.
Now, for the folks performing relaxers at home, box relaxers will cause a calcium buildup if it is a calcuim hydroxide based relaxer. Decalicifying with Organic Root Stimulator (ORS) Olive Oil Creamy Aloe Shampoo occasionally during your maintenance in-between relaxer touchups will help as well.
There are a lot of product lines out there. Learning what is out there and finding what works for each individual client takes DEDICATION. Full-time dedication. If you want to be in the "cattle call," then the service prices are cheap. That is just to get your "hair done."
Now, if you want a hair expert and a personalized regimen surrounded around your allergens, hair type, and lifestyle, then it will cost you more. However, beauty is priceless.
Full-time hair stylists should work at least 40 hours a week in the hair industry. When they are not "behind the chair," they should be researching new industry trends, teaching, or being taught something new.
You really need to be looking for a stylist that is technically savvy and a thinker. Hair and Hairdressing is a lot of chemistry! You want a stylist that thinks like an engineer; not a mechanic. They all have a place in this world, but it is based on your individual needs. A technically savvy hairstylist would start with a consultation before taking you to the shampoo bowl.
A hair expert also will have learned how healthy hair feels and looks. Because hair is long does not mean that it is at its ultimate health. If a stylist knows the feel of hair, then they know that they need more than two products on their backbar. Special circumstances require special needs. For example: There are some hair types that relaxer residue will not rinse clear unless you shampoo it out. Sometimes the base may have been too heavy for the hair type, but regardless of how you get to the situation, you want a hair expert that can feel the hair and know that you may have to shampoo before conditioning. Believe it or not, there are some relaxer systems that recommend conditioning while the cuticles are open, then shampooing. I would caution against that order because there are some hair types that water alone will not rinse the relaxer completely clear.
Now, for the folks performing relaxers at home, box relaxers will cause a calcium buildup if it is a calcuim hydroxide based relaxer. Decalicifying with Organic Root Stimulator (ORS) Olive Oil Creamy Aloe Shampoo occasionally during your maintenance in-between relaxer touchups will help as well.
There are a lot of product lines out there. Learning what is out there and finding what works for each individual client takes DEDICATION. Full-time dedication. If you want to be in the "cattle call," then the service prices are cheap. That is just to get your "hair done."
Now, if you want a hair expert and a personalized regimen surrounded around your allergens, hair type, and lifestyle, then it will cost you more. However, beauty is priceless.
Sunday, March 28, 2010
Weather, Travel and Hair!
Have you ever relocated and/or travelled to a different area and all of a sudden your hair starts to break?
It is the weather. God forbid if you are in a city where the weather is constantly changing.
What do I mean by this? There is both dry heat and high humidity weather that you have to be on the lookout for.
If you travel to parts of Texas, Los Angeles, and any other "dry heat" city, then you need more moisturizing conditioning treatments. Very little protein. Protein treatments and dry heat can cause breakage. If you are travelling to a dry heat area, then please buy a moisturizing mist such as Pureology Colourmax spray for your hair while you are there or make sure that you receive a pure moisturizing treatment such as Graham Webb Back to Basics Coconut Mango conditioner or Pureology Hydrate conditioner if you want some scalp stimulation.
IF you are in a high humidity area, you do not have to worry about hair breakage, but you may worry about holding a style! You need more protein added to the hair in order to hold the style in high humidity areas. Always balance the protein with a moisturizing conditioner. A good protein boost would be Paul Brown Hawaii's Ressurrect conditioner. It is a good balance of protein and moisture. Redken's Real Control Intense Renewal Masque layered with the Pureology Hydrate Conditioner is also a good protein plus moisture treat for the hair.
Some areas of the South has high humidity one day and dry heat the next; this is dangerous conditions for those who do not shampoo everyday. If your focus has been to keep some protein in the hair to combat thermal styling/flat ironing, then a dry heat day in the middle of the week can be a recipe for breakage. Just keep a Moisture Mist around. Paul Mitchell has one and Pureology has Colourmax. It is not going to drench the hair or mess up your style. It is going to mildly soften the hair; yet maintain your style.
Now, on the flip side, if you know that a high humidity day is coming, humidity block and/or hairspray is needed. Joico has an award-winning humidity Block spray. Spray it liberally. It is not going to make it stiff. Just restyle after you spray it throughout the hair. You will still have the same movement in the hair. Now, if you need the curls to hold, then use a holding spray after the humidity blocker.
Sounds like a lot of work? Weather is unpredictable; but it matters . . .
It is the weather. God forbid if you are in a city where the weather is constantly changing.
What do I mean by this? There is both dry heat and high humidity weather that you have to be on the lookout for.
If you travel to parts of Texas, Los Angeles, and any other "dry heat" city, then you need more moisturizing conditioning treatments. Very little protein. Protein treatments and dry heat can cause breakage. If you are travelling to a dry heat area, then please buy a moisturizing mist such as Pureology Colourmax spray for your hair while you are there or make sure that you receive a pure moisturizing treatment such as Graham Webb Back to Basics Coconut Mango conditioner or Pureology Hydrate conditioner if you want some scalp stimulation.
IF you are in a high humidity area, you do not have to worry about hair breakage, but you may worry about holding a style! You need more protein added to the hair in order to hold the style in high humidity areas. Always balance the protein with a moisturizing conditioner. A good protein boost would be Paul Brown Hawaii's Ressurrect conditioner. It is a good balance of protein and moisture. Redken's Real Control Intense Renewal Masque layered with the Pureology Hydrate Conditioner is also a good protein plus moisture treat for the hair.
Some areas of the South has high humidity one day and dry heat the next; this is dangerous conditions for those who do not shampoo everyday. If your focus has been to keep some protein in the hair to combat thermal styling/flat ironing, then a dry heat day in the middle of the week can be a recipe for breakage. Just keep a Moisture Mist around. Paul Mitchell has one and Pureology has Colourmax. It is not going to drench the hair or mess up your style. It is going to mildly soften the hair; yet maintain your style.
Now, on the flip side, if you know that a high humidity day is coming, humidity block and/or hairspray is needed. Joico has an award-winning humidity Block spray. Spray it liberally. It is not going to make it stiff. Just restyle after you spray it throughout the hair. You will still have the same movement in the hair. Now, if you need the curls to hold, then use a holding spray after the humidity blocker.
Sounds like a lot of work? Weather is unpredictable; but it matters . . .
Sunday, February 28, 2010
Proteins and Protein Treatments
I was selected as an Educator for the 2010 Mid-Winter Bronner Bros Hair Show. One of the questions that came up was about proteins.
There are vegetable protein, animal protein, hair/keratin protein, and wheat protein.
The animal protein treatments usually have an odor, but they typically work on ethnic hair quite well. Dudley's DRC-28 was classic for revitalizing hair; however, something changed with their product in 2009, and it stopped working for me. Their customer service was on the defense and would not listen. Another stylist in the Atlanta class witnessed the same thing-- poor customer service. But back to the topic at hand, animal protein treatment usually requires heat. Some are messy which means it is more time consuming.
Vegetable protein does not seem to absorb in to ethnic hair very well.
Keratin protein such as the JOICO K-Pak does not absorb into the ethnic hair as well either.
Now, the wheat protein is awesome for ALL HAIR TYPES! The Redken Extreme CAT Treatment works wonders immediately, and it does NOT smell. It works quickly without any heat. It still should be followed with a moisturizing conditioner.
In fact, all "pure protein" treatments should be followed by a moisturizing conditioner to soften the "strengh" that you add to the hair shaft. Good moisturizing conditioners include Mizani Moistufuse conditioner or Graham Webb's Back to Basics Coconut Mango.
Protein treatments should be received a week or two prior to the relaxer touch-up service to ensure the integrity of the hair. Pure protein treatments should not be used on the day of the relaxer because the cuticle is too vulnerable to open wide from the elevated pH state. Pure protein in that instable state will overpower the hair shaft and may cause more problems in weeks to come.
Protein treatment services every other month will ensure phenomenal long hair by repairing and polishing cuticle damage.
I also have discussion topics on Facebook. Search on Applebaum Hair and become a fan!
There are vegetable protein, animal protein, hair/keratin protein, and wheat protein.
The animal protein treatments usually have an odor, but they typically work on ethnic hair quite well. Dudley's DRC-28 was classic for revitalizing hair; however, something changed with their product in 2009, and it stopped working for me. Their customer service was on the defense and would not listen. Another stylist in the Atlanta class witnessed the same thing-- poor customer service. But back to the topic at hand, animal protein treatment usually requires heat. Some are messy which means it is more time consuming.
Vegetable protein does not seem to absorb in to ethnic hair very well.
Keratin protein such as the JOICO K-Pak does not absorb into the ethnic hair as well either.
Now, the wheat protein is awesome for ALL HAIR TYPES! The Redken Extreme CAT Treatment works wonders immediately, and it does NOT smell. It works quickly without any heat. It still should be followed with a moisturizing conditioner.
In fact, all "pure protein" treatments should be followed by a moisturizing conditioner to soften the "strengh" that you add to the hair shaft. Good moisturizing conditioners include Mizani Moistufuse conditioner or Graham Webb's Back to Basics Coconut Mango.
Protein treatments should be received a week or two prior to the relaxer touch-up service to ensure the integrity of the hair. Pure protein treatments should not be used on the day of the relaxer because the cuticle is too vulnerable to open wide from the elevated pH state. Pure protein in that instable state will overpower the hair shaft and may cause more problems in weeks to come.
Protein treatment services every other month will ensure phenomenal long hair by repairing and polishing cuticle damage.
I also have discussion topics on Facebook. Search on Applebaum Hair and become a fan!
Sunday, January 10, 2010
Relaxers, RELAXERS, Relaxer Alternatives
Traditional relaxers usually contain either sodium hydroxide or a derivative of sodium hydroxide. Deratives include calcium hydroxide (such as the Phytospecific Relaxer), lithium hydroxide (such as the Soft & Beautiful Botanicals Regular Texturizer), and Guanadine hydroxide.
Natural Hair Relaxers or Relaxer Alternatives usually contain sodium carbonate. Natural hair Relaxers such as "Bodiphier" and "Curlaway" usually have the words PERMANENT written on it somewhere. Any chemical that says PERMANENT is chemically altering the hair strands. It may not straighten the hair, but the hair becomes "processed hair" whether it is straight or not.
Also, companies such as the Bodiphier/Fresh Look Products, do not have a "technical support" department. They only have marketing people; so they are not trained to answer questions like "what permanently changed in the hair?" Which hair bonds were altered to permanently soften the hair?
I have mentioned the Paul Mitchell Relaxers before in this blog as well as the Bodiphier. I have to tell you that I did successfully put the "Super" Strength Paul Mitchell relaxer over the shorter lengths of my hair that had been overprocessed by the Bodiphier, and it survived with "flying colors." I was so surprised. I was prepared for my shorter hair to break all the way to the new growth, and it did not.
The Paul Mitchell relaxer seemed to have rebalanced the hair strands from whatever the Bodiphier had done to it. It did not straighten all the way, but it felt much straighter and healthier. I am going to stick with the Paul Mitchell Relaxers for texturizing! Absolutely love and trust it now.
I think that I have mentioned the Essations relaxer before as well. I have never used the relaxer, but I taken the class on it, interviewed a few folks on the relaxer system, and I have seen it applied a few times. Based on all the information that I have, I will not be using that relaxer line.
For those who are sensitive scalp, Salon Exclusive Sensitive Scalp relaxer seems to cause the least irritation and it straightens.
As far as technical support, the caucausian based companies have the BEST technical support. 9 times out of 10, I get my answers within one phone call and I talk to someone immediately. It is a very comfortable feeling when you know that a company is standing by their product. I don't even want to get started discussing the customer service of some of our ethnic lines.
I can not think of anything else to discuss about relaxer choices. I hope that this discussion has helped.
Natural Hair Relaxers or Relaxer Alternatives usually contain sodium carbonate. Natural hair Relaxers such as "Bodiphier" and "Curlaway" usually have the words PERMANENT written on it somewhere. Any chemical that says PERMANENT is chemically altering the hair strands. It may not straighten the hair, but the hair becomes "processed hair" whether it is straight or not.
Also, companies such as the Bodiphier/Fresh Look Products, do not have a "technical support" department. They only have marketing people; so they are not trained to answer questions like "what permanently changed in the hair?" Which hair bonds were altered to permanently soften the hair?
I have mentioned the Paul Mitchell Relaxers before in this blog as well as the Bodiphier. I have to tell you that I did successfully put the "Super" Strength Paul Mitchell relaxer over the shorter lengths of my hair that had been overprocessed by the Bodiphier, and it survived with "flying colors." I was so surprised. I was prepared for my shorter hair to break all the way to the new growth, and it did not.
The Paul Mitchell relaxer seemed to have rebalanced the hair strands from whatever the Bodiphier had done to it. It did not straighten all the way, but it felt much straighter and healthier. I am going to stick with the Paul Mitchell Relaxers for texturizing! Absolutely love and trust it now.
I think that I have mentioned the Essations relaxer before as well. I have never used the relaxer, but I taken the class on it, interviewed a few folks on the relaxer system, and I have seen it applied a few times. Based on all the information that I have, I will not be using that relaxer line.
For those who are sensitive scalp, Salon Exclusive Sensitive Scalp relaxer seems to cause the least irritation and it straightens.
As far as technical support, the caucausian based companies have the BEST technical support. 9 times out of 10, I get my answers within one phone call and I talk to someone immediately. It is a very comfortable feeling when you know that a company is standing by their product. I don't even want to get started discussing the customer service of some of our ethnic lines.
I can not think of anything else to discuss about relaxer choices. I hope that this discussion has helped.
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