Proteins and Protein Treatments

I was selected as an Educator for the 2010 Mid-Winter Bronner Bros Hair Show. One of the questions that came up was about proteins.

There are vegetable protein, animal protein, hair/keratin protein, and wheat protein.

The animal protein treatments usually have an odor, but they typically work on ethnic hair quite well. Dudley's DRC-28 was classic for revitalizing hair; however, something changed with their product in 2009, and it stopped working for me. Their customer service was on the defense and would not listen. Another stylist in the Atlanta class witnessed the same thing-- poor customer service. But back to the topic at hand, animal protein treatment usually requires heat. Some are messy which means it is more time consuming.

Vegetable protein does not seem to absorb in to ethnic hair very well.

Keratin protein such as the JOICO K-Pak does not absorb into the ethnic hair as well either.

Now, the wheat protein is awesome for ALL HAIR TYPES! The Redken Extreme CAT Treatment works wonders immediately, and it does NOT smell. It works quickly without any heat. It still should be followed with a moisturizing conditioner.

In fact, all "pure protein" treatments should be followed by a moisturizing conditioner to soften the "strengh" that you add to the hair shaft. Good moisturizing conditioners include Mizani Moistufuse conditioner or Graham Webb's Back to Basics Coconut Mango.

Protein treatments should be received a week or two prior to the relaxer touch-up service to ensure the integrity of the hair. Pure protein treatments should not be used on the day of the relaxer because the cuticle is too vulnerable to open wide from the elevated pH state. Pure protein in that instable state will overpower the hair shaft and may cause more problems in weeks to come.

Protein treatment services every other month will ensure phenomenal long hair by repairing and polishing cuticle damage.

I also have discussion topics on Facebook. Search on Applebaum Hair and become a fan!

Relaxers, RELAXERS, Relaxer Alternatives

Traditional relaxers usually contain either sodium hydroxide or a derivative of sodium hydroxide. Deratives include calcium hydroxide (such as the Phytospecific Relaxer), lithium hydroxide (such as the Soft & Beautiful Botanicals Regular Texturizer), and Guanadine hydroxide.

Natural Hair Relaxers or Relaxer Alternatives usually contain sodium carbonate. Natural hair Relaxers such as "Bodiphier" and "Curlaway" usually have the words PERMANENT written on it somewhere. Any chemical that says PERMANENT is chemically altering the hair strands. It may not straighten the hair, but the hair becomes "processed hair" whether it is straight or not.

Also, companies such as the Bodiphier/Fresh Look Products, do not have a "technical support" department. They only have marketing people; so they are not trained to answer questions like "what permanently changed in the hair?" Which hair bonds were altered to permanently soften the hair?

I have mentioned the Paul Mitchell Relaxers before in this blog as well as the Bodiphier. I have to tell you that I did successfully put the "Super" Strength Paul Mitchell relaxer over the shorter lengths of my hair that had been overprocessed by the Bodiphier, and it survived with "flying colors." I was so surprised. I was prepared for my shorter hair to break all the way to the new growth, and it did not.
The Paul Mitchell relaxer seemed to have rebalanced the hair strands from whatever the Bodiphier had done to it. It did not straighten all the way, but it felt much straighter and healthier. I am going to stick with the Paul Mitchell Relaxers for texturizing! Absolutely love and trust it now.

I think that I have mentioned the Essations relaxer before as well. I have never used the relaxer, but I taken the class on it, interviewed a few folks on the relaxer system, and I have seen it applied a few times. Based on all the information that I have, I will not be using that relaxer line.

For those who are sensitive scalp, Salon Exclusive Sensitive Scalp relaxer seems to cause the least irritation and it straightens.

As far as technical support, the caucausian based companies have the BEST technical support. 9 times out of 10, I get my answers within one phone call and I talk to someone immediately. It is a very comfortable feeling when you know that a company is standing by their product. I don't even want to get started discussing the customer service of some of our ethnic lines.

I can not think of anything else to discuss about relaxer choices. I hope that this discussion has helped.

Paul Mitchell Retexturizing/Relaxer System

I have been getting phenomenal results with all of my clients - both African American and Caucasian by using the Pureology line. I also received great feedback from hairstylists and clients too on both the previous Paul Mitchell relaxer line as well as Farouk's Deep Brilliance Relaxer lines.

It had me thinking . . . if the ethnic product lines do not have it right when it comes to shampoos and conditioners, then why should I believe that they have it right with relaxers?

Paul Mitchell just reformulated their relaxer system. It used to be Regular or Super only. Now, they have Mild, Regular, and Super.

I have a highly sensitive scalp but I was ready to try something new. So I went for Super strength. To my surprise, mininal scalp irritation and I did not base any part of my head. I was bold, but I needed to see what it would do. My ears were immediately sensitive to the relaxer. I will have to base those first next time.

Also, I only did the sideburns/corners, but it did not overprocess nor cause any immediate sensitivity to my scalp.

I liked it. I must remind you that I have Type 4C kinky hair. I am definitely ready
to offer the Paul Mitchell line as a sensitive scalp option to my clients.

Pravanna Keratin Fusion Texture Control

So you are interested in the Pravanna Keratin Fusion Texture Control System?

According to the instructions, it is NOT compatible with relaxed hair. It is more compatible with thio based traditional perms. But ideally, someone with absolutely NO chemicals in their hair is the best candidate.

If a flat iron is used, then the process is definitely permanent and touchups should not be less than 3 months a part or at least a solid one inch and a half of new growth.

If processed at room temperature on wavy hair for curl reduction, it is more temporary.

If you have "kinky hair," then it probably will be a waste of time and money unless you are going for the permanent flat ironing option, but I am certain that by 3 months time, you will be begging for a what seems like a past-due touch-up.

Again, for kinky hair -- I recommend staying natural or considering the Paul Mitchell retexturizing/relaxing system for straightening.

Believe it or not, I am learning that the ethnic product lines often times are focussed on the the styling finish versus the health of the hair. Also, 99% of the time, the demo models do not have truly kinky hair. I am uncertain if the ethnic product lines really know how to deal with kinky hair and keeping it healthy.

Brazilian Keratin Treatment

So you are curious about the Brazilian Keratin Treatment?

The process costs on average $250. It is temporary. It lasts about 2 to 3 months on average.

In a nutshell, a 450 degree flat iron infuses a keratin treatment/solution into the hair and seals it in. Certain shampoos can raise the cuticle and cause the treatment to release faster. Shortening the longevity of the straightening results.

I personally took a Rejuvenol class on it, but did not buy the intro kit . . . mainly because people complain about paying $80 for a relaxer service that lasts for 2 months. I don't even want to offer $250 process that lasts for 2 months.

As far as health of the hair; I have not seen it to be any healthier. It is more a styling enhancement for those who shampoo more than twice a week at home.

Some BKTs have formaldehyde. Some do not. Typically, the ones with formaldehyde last longer.

Clients are forced to wear the sleek or bone straight look all the time. So if you want to have more curl or body without the frizz, please consider using higher end shampoos and treatments such as Pureology and Aveda. Your hair will transform over time with higher end products.

If your hair is straight, wavy, or slightly curly naturally, then the BKT will be a great option for you because after about 3 months your unprocessed/new growth has never been unruly, but you desire more smoothness. The BKT would avoid any permanent processing of the hair, but the sleek/straight look should be your desired style everyday. It will make your regular home maintenance easier.

If you are overcurly/kinky naturally, then after six to eight weeks, your new growth will still be the same. So you will have the choice to BKT it again at the $250 rate or go back into the relaxer touch-up for less.