2015: Beauty Products are Always Changing!

Both of these jars are Design Essentials Honey Curlforming Custard.  Both are fresh product, and they both deliver the same performance according to the McBride Research representative.  So why the change in color?

The yellowish version was manufactured in 2015 and has an ingredient change. The clear version was manufactured in 2014.  I know- you thought one was old- right?  Imagine me the hairstylist having to investigate into the color change.  The beauty industry is a full time job to keep up with changes.

 Redken changed their packaging of their protein treatment Extreme CAT.  The ingredients list looks the same.

Marianna changed their packaging of their hair pins as well.

The old packaging had a Quality Control Check list on the bottom of the box.

The new packaging had no quality control checklist. I did not call the company, but it does make you wonder about whether or not the quality is the same.

Another Marianna box of bobby pins with Quality Control label/ checklist on the top of the box.

Review: Trionics Enzyme Color Developer

The Trionics Enzyme Color Developer has been around for decades, but I remember another White hairstylist sharing with me that she did not feel that it provided adequate gray coverage.  Then when I went to the California ISSE hair show back in January of this year, Trionics had a booth.  The representative put a finger tip of 50 volume developer in his mouth to show how safe it was.  I was impressed.  So I decided to put this developer to the test.

I tested hair samples from the same head source with the Schwarzkopf 20 volume developer versus Trionics 20 volume developer at room temperature only.

I felt the results were the same as far as color coverage.  The health of the strand was not significantly different. The reason why I was considering this developer was because my clients are aging, and many have relaxers.  Permanent haircolor plus relaxers can make the hair sensitive to more breakage.  I figure that if I can make the permanent haircoloring more healthy, then that is going to keep the hair stronger.

Now, for those who do not have relaxers or do not need relaxers, then I do not know if the gray coverage is adequate. However, the Trionics developers require heat processing, and it reduces the time for development.  20 minutes max of heat processing is the boundary.  

I have tried the Trionics with a relaxer and permanent haircolor client who also wears hair extensions.  It gave great coverage and saved us some processing time.  So far, I am pleased with the Trionics for those who get multiple chemical services as well as regular haircolor and highlights.

Design Essentials Smoothing System Revised

The new Design Essentials STS Express Strengthening Treatment shortens the steps of its original version.  You only have to blow-dry and flat iron once versus twice with the old system.  Also, the flat iron should be between 340 and 400 degrees.  The educators pounded "1-2-3 Smooth" into all of us.

Relaxed clients, natural clients, curlista's - all can benefit from the new smoothing treatment.  There are three different "Step 2's" to choose from.

Another hairstylist and I asked about using the marcel irons and pressing combs. The educator said that the direct heat from these tools would take the product back off of the hair.  So sealing the product with a flat iron is the only option.

They did not showcase a final style.  The class was to demo the smoothing treatment.  I didn't see much beveling of the ends.  So if you just want straight hair, this system should work great.   Please note that many of the hair classes as of late - no longer offer final styling.

On a separate note, this platform artist says "natural hair is not a trend; it is here to stay."

Hair Extensions: Creating Texture in Straight Strands

These strand extensions were behaving very stringy looking.

I decided to curly perm these.  Pictured is the stiff behavior of the hair extensions before the perm solution.  The extension hair did not want to stay curled on the rod.

I used the Quantum Acid Extra Body perm solution to force the texture in the strands.

This Zotos Quantum perm was about 3 years old, and it left the strands hydrated.  The odor of the chemical lingered in the salon a lot longer than I was hoping for, but overall, I would trust this brand to use it again.

The mauve rod delivered a looser wave than the white rods.

My client preferred more texture so we decided to go with the curl delivered from the white perm rods.

I had five more strand bundles to complete.  I slide this one right off the rod without fingering through it.

The white perm rods deliver the perfect texture in that straight hair, and it does not tangle.

The strands dry with a lot of texture in them.

I used the Opti curl acid wave extra body perm on the remainder of the hair extensions.

The Opti-curl does not have a lingering odor, but the hair extensions definitely seemed drier.  I would not recommend this perm on real hair, but it worked fine for the extension hair.

For the strand hair extensions that were placed in my clients' relaxed hair, I had to use a Sunglitz plastic highlighting cap to form a barrier to pull the hair extensions through while protecting the already relaxed hair  from the incompatible curly perm.  I did tease/backcomb her hair out of the strands before pulling the extensions through.

I used color applicator bottles filled with water to dip the spiral placed rods to begin diluting the perm solution after the processing time expired.  A Neutralizing bib was necessary as well. 

The service was very successful.  We had to add more textured strands, and we wet set the newly textured extensions that were already attached.  Overall, the texture was still slightly silky, but the curl behavior was much more friendly to staying curled and blended.

I will take a picture on her next wet set visit.  I had to hot curl the new strands added, but the existing strands were roller set.  Overall, we really were both happy with the improved blending.

8 Weeks Later . . .  A Roller set using the Lottabody Wrap Me Foaming Mousse.

The Loc Nation: From the Darkness to the Light

I am a member of the Loc Nation.  What is it?  Those who control their hair strands by twisting or interlocking.  There is no organized meetings that I know of.  We are of one mindset to work with the hair that our Creator gave us.

It's time to shed a little more light on my own hair.  I wanted to go deeper.  Anyone fascinated with my volume?  No hairspray here.  I did condition with the ORS Moisture Lock Hair Conditioning Cocktail with Tamanu and Black Currant oils plus I used the Tropical Roots foam to wet set it.

My scalp/roots dated May 2015, present day.  By European standards, everything about my hair is "ugly."  However, as "ugly" as some people may describe it, it is normal for those with ultra coily, kinky, resistant hair.  All my life, hairdressers have tried to "straighten the hell" out of my hair because they did not like what they saw.  They wanted my hair to be straight.  I was always okay with texturized/slightly relaxed, but unfortunately, when my hair is under-relaxed it becomes even more unmanageable.  So beginning my loc journey marked the end of my fighting to keep my hair straight.  Unfortunately, many locticians are not used to seeing my ultra coily texture either.  They wonder how such "ugliness" can output/produce so much beauty?  This "ugliness" often times has been associated with people thinking that I have not taken care of my hair.  This is the farthest thing from the truth.  The problem has been trying to make my hair conform to straight hair standards.  The problem has been learning to love the beauty in the uniqueness of my own hair.  It is only ugly when the standard is straight hair.  However, when I accept my hair as the norm, then it is as beautiful as God has created it to be.

My locs are doing well.  I see nothing but progress.  It has been a long, hard journey in a world where I have had a hard time fitting in primarily because of my hair.  Although, my loc sizing will always create a few styling limitations because one quadrant is much smaller than the rest, I am happy that my locs are mostly large in size according to Sisterlocks standards.  Why?  Because I refuse to be dependent on another human being to care for my hair again.  I had heard others say this about their locs before, but now, I really, really get it.  You can not control relocation of consultants or your own relocation or even death of another individual.  If the locs are really small, self-maintenance can be a huge challenge.  So the concept of microlocks is brilliant, but 600+ Sisterlocks on your head can really be a "check" that most people will not be to handle long term. God knew what he was doing when I got my Sisterlocks installed.  Because I had some true Sisterlocks sized locs in one quadrant of my head, I have been able to learn the benefits from all the loc sizings from "micro size" to "too large." I self maintain all of them.  I do not recommend tight updos.  They are too stressful to my locs in my opinion.  So I either wet set my locs or leave them straight. Larger traditional locs may benefit from the updos.  Just watch the tension.

May 2015 - the back of my head - it is progressing nicely!

So 34 months - 2 years 10 months is here!

I am loving my Loc Nation!