Relaxer Review: Affirm Control Normal Formula

 The traditional Affirm relaxer line has a  "control Formula" that comes in Normal strength.  It was designed for those with slower application times.  My regular distributor did not stock this formula so I had to special order it from another regional distributor.  The timing guide and ingredients on the Control Formula tub was the same as the regular Affirm Normal tub.  The Avlon representative from Avlon headquarters said that this fact was not a mistake.  Yet, I still am unclear how the only packaging difference between the regular Normal and the Control Normal is that the Control label is identified on the tub. So be it,  I decided the only way to know the processing time was to experiment on a hair sample.

The hair samples came from the same source of natural hair.  There may be some permanent color in this hair sample.  I am unclear if this hair samples donation is color-treated. 

I applied the Control Normal formula to the hair sample first.  Then the regular Normal formula was applied to the second hair sample about a minute later.

 At the 10 minutes mark, I did not see much difference in the processing time.

 By the 20 minutes processing time, the two hair samples looked the same to me.

 After conditioning and neutralizing, I was pleased with the Control Formula.  I allowed it to process the longest.  It was the first applied and the last that I rinsed out for a total of 28 minutes.  The hair felt just as soft or softer than the traditional Normal strength Affirm relaxer which only processed about 23 minutes total.

Most hairstylists have a general idea of a relaxer processing time based on the hair texture of the client.  For clients, that a seven minute application and a seven minute smoothing is plenty to complete their total relaxation time within 15 minutes, then the control formula is NOT needed.

For those clients that need 15 minutes to get through the new growth for application and another 10 minutes to smooth out for a total relaxation time of 25 minutes, then the "Control" formula could be an option.

No one seemed to offer any encouraging words regarding the Control formula when inquiring at Avlon headquarters as well as my regular distributor.  I was told repeatedly that the control formula was for those with slow relaxer application speed like new hairstylists to the industry.  However, from my observation in this trial run, the control formula would be great for those clients with closely compacted new growth who are already in the normal strength Affirm relaxer which require 25 minutes processing anyway.

The control formula only comes in Normal strength so color-treated hair is still not encouraged.

Haircut in Progress: How much correction is needed?

This picture is from behindthechair.com Facebook discussion.  Some artists thought it was a horrible haircut; others thought that the haircut has a lot of potential with some blending.  My thoughts are:

In order to salvage the length, I would razor the tips all over to soften the bluntness, lightly filet the hair in the bottom layers to blend and allow the rest to grow out for about six months and trim the bottom length up gradually as it grows out.

I assume that this lady's hair was cut while wet to end up with that many blunt ends.

Curls with or without extensions should allow for a softer look.

Achieving Bra Strap Length Using Fusion Extensions

 Hair by Benita Blocker.  My client wanted to extend her below shoulder length hair to bra strap length.  We decided to use strand by strand fusion hair extensions application.

To save money, she had me to color some blonde colored strands to match her hair.   8 bundles of 10 strands.  I left the bundles tied in order to not lose track of them.

After untying the bundles, you can see the original blonde color of the hair extensions.  Based on the color wheel, in order to neutralize the yellow/gold, I needed red/violet.  I used Schwarzkopf Igora10 haircolor for quick processing. I let it process for an extended period of time because I was going for a dark color, and I was servicing another client as well.

 I decided on the following color formula:  1.5 oz of 3.0 tube and 1.0 oz of 4.89 tube and 10 volume developer.

 I did shampoo and condition them appropriately to avoid tangling.  I also straighten them and ran them through my drawing cards with help from an assistant.

Color wheels are important when correcting color and altering hair extension haircolor. The blonde hair extensions were remy premium hair extensions.  I did not advise coloring hair extensions that are not premium or remy quality.  The haircoloring causes some damage to the strands so start with high quality to ensure that the hair will not tangle when put in.

Are you wondering how many strands were used in my client's hair to acheive the first picture?  97 strands.

All Semi-Permanent Haircolors are not equal!

Within an hour, the Goldwell Elumen High Performance Semi-permanent haircolor in "black" had destroyed the top gloss coating of my tint bowl.  Gray coverage on the hair worked well though.  My client's hair look great and has remained healthy through two or three Elumen applications!

 At another color session, the tint brush suffered damage to its glossy coat using the same Goldwell Elumen high performance semi-permanent haircolor.  The haircolor was sitting for hours before I rinsed the color off the brush to discover this discoloration.  That is why I did not leave the haircolor in the tint bowl past an hour the next usage, but I still got discoloration.  I will have to avoid using transparent glossy tint bowls and brushes in the future with any of the Elumen haircolors.

 This haircolor does not require any mixing with an activator type lotion.  It is used immediately from the bottle.  It has been providing excellent gray coverage in-between relaxer services.  I will not advise it on the same day as the relaxer because of its high performance action.

I see a Lactic Acid and sodium hydroxide in the ingredients list.  So I believe the cuticle is slightly swollen to make this semi-permanent haircolor high performance.  It also leaves a slight line of demarcation.

According to other online reviews, Elumen holds almost permanently to damaged hair.  People like Elumen red color(s) because they do not bleed out nor fade.  Damaged hair is considered any hair that has been chemically altered or mechanically roughed up.

Overall, the Elumen haircolor should be used with caution.  I would use a protective barrier around the hairline to avoid a hard line.  This protective barrier may not be an uncommon practice, but with Elumen darker colors, forgetting the protective barrier may be a battle that you do not want to fight at the end of the hair service.  Also, gloves are essential.  The Elumen haircolor seems to stain the hands instantly.

Brazilian Blowout Smoothing Treatment 2013

 I just completed a Brazilian Blowout smoothing treatment class to get the latest updates.  I originally was certified in April of 2010.  I have extensive experience with this product.  I want to say upfront that this treatment is NOT a straightener nor a replacement for a relaxer.  If your client or your own hair is a type 2 or type 3a, then you may achieve a straightening effect from the treatment.  Otherwise, I would not recommend this treatment to a woman of color with a type 4 curl pattern.  The Brazilian Blowout treatment will soften a type 4 curl pattern, but it will not elongate the curl.

Now, for the updates, the company does admit when enough heat is applied to the hair, formaldehyde can be produced so only well ventilated salon environments are recommended for use of this smoothing treatment.

They also recommend using the "smart glasses"  for both the stylist and the client as another precaution.

They have more new products in the Brazilian Blowout retail line for styling and for aftercare volume.

An all boar bristle round brush or paddle brush is recommended for blowdrying the solution dry.  A metal base brush apparently will create too much heat, and we are trying to avoid formaldehyde emissions.

Shaking up the bottle before dispensing the product is also key to making sure the mixture is consistent. The shelf life is 18 months.

The treatment is not recommended for pregnant or nursing women.

The model's final styling was finger blowdried without a brush.  This model's hair responded like a straightener, but several passes of the flat iron was used throught the model's hair.