Hair Tool Review: The Sprush

Officially, a Sprush is a cross between a spatula and a tint brush. I have been using sprushes for years to perform relaxer touch-ups. They can be used for haircolor application as well, but I prefer a regular tint brush for color services.

Recently, I added the new "Optimum" sprush to my collection. It is the center sprush in the picture. Do you notice that the surface of this special sprush is textured with ridges? The rest of the sprushes in the picture all have smooth spatula surfaces. I like the new textured sprush because I can pick up heavier amounts of relaxer and apply to new growth without the whole glob falling into one place. The textured sprush seems to hold the relaxer in place on the sprush until I am ready for it. This feature saves a few application strokes.

The company that makes this tool is called Sprush.

Self Esteem: "Your Africa is Showing!"

(Photo Credits: www.thenaturalgirlsguidetobeauty.blogspot.com and www.toyourhealth.com) As you all know, I went back into my straight look in attempt to deal with some corporate America issues. It is better to look "corporate" from head to toe if you want to get anywhere in corporate America.

I have had so many Black women to say "your hair grew back so quickly." My response has been two part. One) The Viviscal tablets. I really believe in them. (see my separate article) Two) Natural Black hair shrinks. So although, it looks short when kinky; it expands 50 to 75% the length when straightened.

Do you know how awkward it feels to educate another Black woman about our natural hair? Some of our Black "divas" are so disconnected from their own natural hair texture. My thoughts are "If we can not accept ourselves in our raw form, then why would we expect another race to accept us?"

Black "Divas" who see other Black women with "Their Africa Showing" say "why doesn't she at least relax her hair so it can lay down." When I heard a "sistah" say this recently, I proudly and politely responded "I find some Black women are just not used to seeing their own natural hair." Then I quickly changed the topic.

I am sorry. I really, really want to scream. As you know, I recently wrote an article on "nappy love" that mentioned Black woman describing other Black women looking like a "wooly mammoth." I am thoroughly ashamed of some of my Black sisters being so ignorant about natural Black hair.

Most of the time our natural Black hair looks "ugly" when we are trying to wear it straight and the weather takes control of it. At this point, different textures start to show because parts of the hairstyle is reverting back to the natural texture. Also, when we get a lot of new growth prior to a relaxer touch-up, it looks a little awkward to have two different textures.

No, every Black woman does not need to go natural and wear an afro, but my God, please respect other Black women when "their Africa is Showing!"

To break the ice, the next time you see a Sistah that is not following the corporate straight look, say "Hey Sister! (with a warm smile) Your Africa is showing." It may become a start of a good friendship.

It takes a lot of self esteem to wear "your Africa" despite the stares and the body languages that one encounters when you are viewed as different. I challenge Black women to create a warmer acceptance of "nappy hair." Why? Our little Black girls need to know that they are beautiful just as they are! Their self esteem should not be based on what is on top of their head, but what is inside their head.

I can not emphasize enough that achieving education goals will set a stronger foundation for self-esteem than any relaxer ever will . . .

A Quick Look at a Soft Press

I bought this coarse, textured hair mannequin at the Bronner Brother hair show. I attempted a "soft press" without shampooing it in the second picture.

Then, I actually got a chance to shampoo and condition my new kinky hair mannequin. I used heavy products such as creme press and curl wax to straighten and curl as picured in the third picture. This styling should hold longer with use of heavier products on coarse hairtypes.

Product Corner: Optimum Smart Lye Relaxer

Johnny Wright introduced the new Soft Sheen Carson Keratin Whipped Creme Relaxer at the August 2011 Bronner Brothers Hair Show. They gave us sample sizes to try out. Anyone interested? Call me!
Celebrity hairstylist Johnny Wright says that Michelle Obama did well with this relaxer. The hair still felt strong after the relaxer. The model on stage had received this new "Smart Lye" relaxer as well. It has a patent pending formula. I have searched on the Internet for more information on "Smart Lye" but I keep seeing the exact same wording. 25% less sodium hydroxide. I have no idea what is supplementing this relaxer formula. I am a little skeptical of it. I did not see the ideal shine in the model's hair. It looked "mousy gray." Also, her hair texture looked like the typical Type 3 curl pattern that facilitators usually use to demonstrate their relaxers. When will they start using Type 4 curl patterns as models? Type 4 curl patterns are what "real Black hairstylists" have to deal with in the "real World."

Interesting enough, the new Keratin Whipped Creme relaxer comes in a "cool pouch" instead of a plastic tub. In my opinion, "Smart Lye" means be smart about choosing your relaxer.

Hair Growth Review: Five Months Timeframe

It's September 2011. Eight months without using a ionic flat iron. (See article on flat iron free pledge) Five sodium hydroxide relaxer attempts where four attempts only texturized my type 4c curl pattern. My final styling was completed with stove and marcel irons and the True Indulgence relaxer system. (Please see separate article.) I still have a little wave in my hair. On a separate note, I think that I have 3 different hair textures in my head. Below the occipital bone is probably a type 4a. Above the occipital bone into the crown is probably a type 4c. Let me clarify that my occipital bone sits low. Therefore I have a lot of type 4c hair. My front hair is probably a type 4b. I have had about five trims trying to keep some shape. I mainly layered in the back so I have been cutting away length there.
This picture is from April 2011. Big difference right? I had started to eliminate all the ends that had been flat iron damaged. Apparently, the curlier your hair; the more flat iron passes you take trying to get the hair straight. I figured out that I was losing the battle; so no more flat irons for me. So I started the "protective styling." (i.e. wigs and half wigs)
Then in June 2011, I realized the wigs were too heavy. The wigs were cute but they started traumatizing my scalp. Please my article on wig weight. The synthetic wigs are heavier than the human hair wigs, but they all were too heavy for my head shape. I still was growing lengthwise, but who needs thin hair? I intentionally left my hairline out to avoid damage from the traction of the wig. Can you imagine me thinning my hairline out?
So by July 2011, I was recovering from the wigs and protective styling. My front had thickened back up. I had started wearing my natural styling. The natural styling was a "bear" to deal with. I did not have a choice. The wigs were too heavy. I was trying to avoid the heat from any type of irons. I could not find a sodium hydroxide relaxer that straightened without burning me within 20 minutes or less.
August 2011, my new growth comes in strong again! It controls my whole look. I also started wondering if the texturized hair is reverting some. It was time to attempt the next relaxer. That was a battle. (See the separate article on my August hair battle) I was not pleased with the relaxer that I tried. It was extremely drying. I was going to have to discover a completely different combination of natural products just to adapt to this new partially relaxed hair. I did not have any more patience for this natural hair care. So I went into the gluefree quick weave styling to just let it rest because some areas were too straight to try to wear it natural, and some areas were too natural to hold straight in the crazy weather that we were having. Talk about caught between a "rock and a hard place."
September 2011, my growth was doing well. The Viviscal pills seem to work well. I decided to discontinue them during relaxer time. I am proud of my five months of hair growth. It was good for me to actually see my progress. I have been wearing my hair natural part of the time. I have also used the partial gluefree quickweave styling a few times. This styling is less stressful on the hair than the synthetic wigs, but it allows me a longer, straighter look for a styling change. Well, this was my hair texture before this September 2011 relaxer. I did not take a picture of the texture of my hair wet after the relaxer. Sorry. I still had texture in it but more wave than curl. I did not want it bone straight. However, I did need it straight enough not to revert back in high humidity. It took four sodium hydroxide relaxer attempts, and I still had not achieved enough straightness to prevent frizzing in high humidity. I am actually beginning to wonder if going from ultra kinky, sensitive scalp to straight enough to avoid reversion is realistic in one sodium hydroxide relaxer setting? I was not able to successfully do this in one setting. Of course, sensitive scalp formula relaxers can probably achieve this, but they are not healthy for the hair nor scalp. Once or twice a year in a bind, yes - you should recover; but I avoid sensitive scalp relaxers now at all cost!

This documentation is important to me because some stylists and people in general feel that "nappy hair" can only grow to a certain length and break. This is not true. "Nappy hair" is fragile in its natural state and if it is chemically overprocessed or heat damaged. If you keep "nappy hair" texturized enough to soften and not revert without over straightening it - length and strength can be maintained. So far I have learned that the frequency of relaxing is not a problem. It is the type of relaxer used. It is also how much straighening that you are trying to achieve in one setting. Stay positive, stay focussed, stay tuned!