Comparing FHI Heat Iron Literature: Old and New!

As discussed in a separate article in this blog, notice the temperature warnings for fine and chemically-treated hair? In this newer literature, the warning is at the beginning of the paragraph, right? Reminder: Chemically-treated means color treated or relaxed, etc.
This is a picture of older FHI Heat Literature. Look at the "Temperature Settings" paragraph. Notice the same warning? Notice that in this older literature, the fine and chemically-treated hair warning was in the middle of the paragraph? So the newer literature pictured above emphasizes their warning about the dangers to fine and chemically-treated hair by moving the statement to the first sentence. Were they becoming aware of the damage that was happening?
Look at item number 6. Notice that instructions say hair should glide through iron without pulling nor gripping? If you have curly hair, you are more than likely shutting the iron tight trying to get the curl out? If you are already straight and just want to control some frizz, then a lower temperature, some flat iron serum and a simple pass should do the trick. But for curly hair and fine hair, why spend over $100 for a hot tool that is not designed with the health of your hair in mind?

A Great Moisturizing Conditioner and Hairdress

Nexxus Humectress is a moisturizing conditioner that works great on wet hair or dry hair. If using on wet hair, then rinse it out. If using on dry hair as a hairdress, then use sparingly as a leave-in conditioner. As a leave-in hairdressing, it softens hair like an "organic coconut oil." Pictured is older packaging of the Nexxus Humectress. This bottle does have glycerin and mineral oil listed in the ingredients. It works sooooo well for moisturizing the hair overnight as a hairdress.


The new packaging as shown on the right of this picture has different ingredients. It seems to have replaced the glycerin and mineral oil combination with dimethicone. I do not know if this newer version works as well as the older version. I found this older bottle in Harris Teeter. It was the last one left. There were plenty of the newer versions on the shelf. It smelled good; so I anticipate that it will still work well.

The Dimethicone (i.e. Silicone) which is now as controversial as the mineral oil may not moisturize as well. It should deliver the same shine, but not necessarily the same softness. I will try out the newer packaging in the future, but since I just paid $16 for the bottle pictured on the left, it may be awhile. Until then, if you still have this older version in your hair products stash, then try it out! It works for all hair types! Race is not important.

Michelle Obama: The Healthy, Sleek hair Look!

First Lady Michelle Obama is looking great from head to toe! This sleek style can be achieved from having your stylist use the stove and marcel flat iron. It can be acheived with the hair being roller set in large rollers first then use the marcel flat iron to relax the roller set parts. If using magnetic rollers, try the purple or gray sizes. Use of a light foam as a setting agent will eliminate any challenges with weight and/or movement.

The blow dry service is still an option as well. However, sitting clients with fine and/or relaxed hair under a pre-heated dryer on medium setting for about 5 to 10 minutes with their ends clipped up will assist in pre-drying some of the ends. The ends are usually the weakest part of the hair strand. With African American hair, I still believe that women with extremely curly hair need the roots blown dry with some wetness in it. If they have a fresh relaxer, then the roots should be straight. Choosing the marcel flat iron over the electric ionic/ceramic flat iron is safer for those desiring to keep their length.

I have grown my clients' hair out to mid-back lengths within two year time period using these expensive ionic flat irons, but I have found that continued use of the ionic/infrared heated flat irons seem to cause permanent damage in the internal structure of the hair. This internal damage to the hair shaft eventually shows up "one day" out of the unexpected. Race of the client does not matter. Natural hair versus relaxed hair does not matter. Curl pattern does not matter. The results of continued use of ceramic/ionic flat irons will show up one day. It may take a year, a year and a half, or even three years. Depending on the heat protection products that being used, how often the hair is being flat iron per week, and the fineness of the hair will determine how soon the damage will show up. The hair will typically start showing signs of minor breakage before the excessive breaking begins. Again, your race does not matter.

I have had new Caucausian/White clients come in requesting hair extension service because of excessive breakage from ionic flat iron use at home. Returning back to the original electric curling irons and bulky electric flat irons for home use will be best for the hair when heat styling is needed. Please see separate articles on flat irons for "old school tools." Also, read your tool instruction manuals under "temperature settings." Some warnings are printed there.

I have been asked a lot lately about whether or not the heat damaged hair will curl back up for those who were naturally curly prior to their hair starting to go straight from the heat. My answer is maybe, but do not count on it. For coarser hair, the hair strand has more medulla, and the curl may return after a few months. However, if the hair stays straight after it is thoroughly saturated in water (i.e. shampooed), then it is less likely to return to its original curl pattern. That straight hair may either break off eventually or it may need to be trimmed away over the year. Either way, your new growth is your new focus. No more ceramic/ionic/infrared flat irons at home nor in the salon. Promise.?

A Closer Look at Type 4c kinky curly hair

Okay. What are your first thoughts about this picture? Wow? nappy? Wow? Definitely type 4c? Curlier than yours? Did you notice that the hand is holding on to at least an inch of hair? Hair can coil/curl up so tightly that you can not find the beginning of it? Can you find the ends of some of the strands? Ignore the grey hair. Ignore some of the longer texturized lengths. Just concentrating on the natural base hair at the roots. Do you find beauty in it? or does it shock you? Does it look like normal hair? Is it socially acceptable hair? Does it represent "Black hair?" These questions raise more questions. Should this hair be colored or relaxed? Do the makers of relaxers even have this hair type in mind when the directions say "put the relaxer on and rinse it out in 15 minutes?" Can you imagine a relaxer touchup service that is past due? Trying to part the hair to get to the roots to apply relaxer product could be tough then add a time limit? Does this hair type represent a high percentage of African American women? Why do all the relaxer classes and relaxer demonstrations always use women with much looser curl patterns to sell their product? Would a stylist aim for "Super Strength" relaxer or "mild" relaxer strength? What do you think? If you go for "Super," relaxer is undoubtedly going to be in contact with the scalp for a extended period of time. That is not going to be healthy. But will the mild strength be strong enough to keep it from reverting? It depends on the relaxer brand, of course. So you are probably thinking to try "regular strength" relaxer or just remain natural? Okay, if you remain natural, combing this type of hair while dry is almost impossible giving the tightness of the coil without popping it or breaking it. The only chance of combing this type of hair with less breakage is after it is well conditioned and detangled in the wet phase. You have to partition it off and plait it down until you can blow-dry it a section at a time. This is high maintenance hair. I do not recommend permanent nor demi-permanent color on this hairtype at all. Not even to cover the grey. This hair type is vulnerable in its naturally, tightly curled state. It will be even more vulnerable after a chemical is added. Relaxer plus roller set service is about the only option to maintain a corporate professional look. Sisterlocks or other natural lock styling is also an option. I am hoping that the relaxer manufacturers will re-examine how they make relaxers. How do you keep relaxer off the scalp with a curl pattern like this? This head of hair represents a lot of struggling Black women who love their hair but feel like they have been dumped into a corner with limited to no options. With hair this tightly coiled, the words "tenderheaded" and "sensitive scalp" probably go together. If you are seeking out a routine for control without breakage, please stay posted. I will add to this article as I finalize the steps, products, and techniques that are in existence today. Be patient. You are not misunderstood.

9/4/2011 Update: The True Indulgence relaxer regular strength has met my requirements of being sodium hydroxide, little to no irritation, leaves the integrity of hair in tact and delivers reasonable straightness, shine and softness. My search is over. Please see my True Indulgence relaxer review.

12/02/2012 Update: New picture above. I really recommend Sisterlocks for this type of hair. Straightening by heat or by chemicals is just too aggressive long term for this particular curl pattern to maintain solid length.  Although, I am working on a unique relaxer touch-up technique, but I have not perfected yet. Stay tuned!

May 2013 update: After two years of searching, experimenting, trying to create a new technique, I finally and unfortunately concluded the microlocks formed by comb twisting is the best way to manage this hair type.  The scalp gets too much contact with relaxers whether you are using a mild or a regular strength. Over the years or decades, the damage will appear.  The scalp may begin to scar.  I have also found that interlocking techniques such as Sisterlocks do not grab the new hair up into the existing lock like comb twisting does. I have written a few articles on tips for healthy, stylish locks for May 2013. Please see those articles. For those who want straight hair, I still suggest locking the hair, but make a custom fit stocking cap straight hair wig to wear over the locks. I have an article on that too.

I am soooo sorry that in my two year search for a better solution to straight hair for this hairtype, I found no healthy solution, but I did find a stylish solution that works with the hairtype, not against it.  My search is truly over as far as relaxers are concerned on this curl pattern and hair texture.

The Best Detangler for all natural hair types!

Type 4c hair? No worries! Mixed Chicks deep conditioner softens all healthy hair types! So if you are naturally curly and not too "heat trained" then this conditioner works very quickly to detangle without any heat. 30 seconds to 5 minutes and rinse!
Mixed Chicks Deep conditioner works great on hair with tightly closed cuticles, and it will not weigh it down. On hair where the cuticle is eroded from heat damage, I have found this conditioner to not absorb into the hair. However, once the damaged hair has begun to heal and the natural curl pattern starts to return, then this conditioner will absorb and work fine. The use of "organic" coconut oil that is bought from a "Organic Specialty" type store is recommended as a pre-shampoo treatment if you think that your hair is heat damaged. Note: Organic Root Stimulant product line has a "coconut oil" blend, but this is not the same as a more "pure organic coconut oil." Also, many other product lines are adding coconut oil to their ingredients.

Organic specialty stores include places like The Vitamin Shoppe, Earthfare, Healthy Home Market, Trader Joes, and Whole Foods stores. Please search for my separate article on coconut oil.

Looking for Mixed Chicks Deep Conditioner? Beauty supply stores nationwide are starting to carry it or just purchase online from the Mixed Chicks website.