Maintaining phenomenal hair through education on techniques, tools, and products!
Phenomenal . . .

Life, Growth, and Connection (This sunflower was nourished by my hands.) 2010; Photography by Benita Blocker. Please become a follower of this blog.
Total Pageviews
Monday, March 28, 2011
Reflecting on Ultra Sheen products from the 1970's
Sunday, March 27, 2011
Redken CAT: Like a relaxer in a bottle
Redken CAT should be treated like a pure protein; so do NOT use it every week and DO balance it with a moisturizing conditioner. It works like the old "Dudley DRC-28" and the "Aphogee treatment" except it does not stink because it does not have the animal protein in it; no dryer heat nor dryer time is needed; and the application is an instant spray on, comb through, rinse out. You can use dryer time for your moisturizing treatment that you would use behind it if you would like or use an instant moisturizing treatment like the Uans crema.
Redken CAT strengthens, reinforces, and polishes the hair strands. It is great as a pre-relaxer treatment about a week before the relaxer is due. This is a professional use product. If you are using this at home, then you should let your stylist know as to not duplicate the protein treatments.
Please use this product wisely and around once a month if using a lot of heat styling. Please do not use this product nor any other "pure protein" on the same day as a relaxer. The "freshly relaxed" hair would absorb too much protein too quickly and may feel great temporarily while wet, but too much protein and dry hair is a recipe for breakage.
Most stylist charge extra for this treatment, but consumers are getting their hands on a lot of professional only products without a license to practice hair. Just don't overuse and communicate with your stylist. Also, please search for my article on "Moisture and Protein Balance."
Thursday, March 24, 2011
Seasoning the Iron: Tempering the Marcel
Heat Trained Hair: Heat damaged hair?
Heat Trained may mean "heat damaged" hair.
Click on this link above to watch a youtube video story that was very profound. According to her story, in as few as three flat iron visits . . . her hair became almost relaxed. She says a lot of "ums" throughout the video, but her story is interesting. Why? If flat ironing naturally curly hair will "heat damage" it then what if you have already relaxed hair and you flat iron it?
Any extreme heat source can cause damage including hard presses. This is a "food for thought" article.
If clicking on the embedded link does not work, then please copy/paste this url address: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KvO3VD78xeA
The photo attached is owned by me and is a separate visual from the youtube link. I do not own the video in the youtube link. As long as it remains on youtube, then the link to it should work.
Monday, March 21, 2011
Curling irons: Hollow Barrel versus Solid Barrel
Do you remember Jason Griggers from the "Good Hair" movie? He was using marcel irons when the cameras came to his salon to interview him behind the scenes for the hair battle. Recently, he started styling for FHI Heat as a platform artist at Bronner Brothers hair show 2010. Please see my separate article highlighting FHI Heat instructions. I am going to watch his career as he transitions into more flat iron usage. I really do not think that this is a healthy direction, but we all have gotten that "flat iron" fever at one time or another!
Sunday, March 20, 2011
Ionic Flat Iron Literature Review: FHI Heat, Croc, Chi
So after my attendance to countless trade shows, hair shows, and hair classes, the platform artists showcase "a show" . . . with new style and energy without mentioning any "fine print." Read your hair tools' literature. If the literature is old, then go to the store and look at the newest literature on the same brand. It should have the most accurate warnings. Remember ionic flat irons are only 10 years old or less. Just like most technological advances, it takes years to get it ready for offering to the general public, and it takes even a few more years to fully perfect. A great example is the laser eye correction. That procedure has come a long way within 15 years.
Line of Demarcation: Variation in Texture
Hot tools: Switching Technologies and the Danger
Tuesday, March 15, 2011
Telogen effluvium: Hair Loss due to stress
Watching the price of gasoline rise almost double or triple what they used to be is stressful. The added expense is unexpected in a already tight budget.
Also, in light of the unfolding disasters in Japan (earthquake, tsunami, nuclear radiation exposure), many people will be under tremendous stress. This stress can cause temporary hair loss. It may not show immediately, but in a few months down the road after the events of the initial stressful situation is over, it may seem like it is overnight or instanteously.
According to http://emedicine.medscape.com/article/1071566-overview:
Telogen effluvium is a form of nonscarring alopecia characterized by diffuse hair shedding, often with an acute onset. A chronic form with a more insidious onset and a longer duration also exists.1,2 Telogen effluvium is a reactive process caused by a metabolic or hormonal stress or by medications. Generally, recovery is spontaneous and occurs within 6 months.


However, within six months after onset of "stress alopecia," recovery is possible by eliminating as much stress as possible. All three pictures are of the same head. Before and after alopecia due to stress.
Please feel free to research more on Telogen effluvium. With unemployment rates rising, gasoline prices rising, and the economy still uncertain, we have to also focus on "wellness" in order to balance the stressors.
NOTE: Picture of gasoline prices are updated periodically in this article to reflect the rising costs on a monthly basis. September 2012 gasoline prices
Saturday, March 12, 2011
Flat Brushes: Blow-drying and Final Finishes
Thursday, March 10, 2011
Hair Breakage Help: Balancing Protein and Moisture
Let's talk weather first! So everything has been going well with your hair until about March? More than likely, the weather is changing from dry and cold to dry and warm? There are some low humidity days then some rainy days(high humidity days)? Extra care and attention to your hair is required when the weather is changing. If you live in a city with constant weather changes all year round . . . then you have to make sure that you stay on top of your hair needs! Observing the dryness of your overall body skin is another true sign of what your hair is going through. If you are layering lotions and creams on your overall body trying to tame dryness, then that is a sign that your hair needs just as much attention. The climate may require changes in your regimen. That leads to the question of what to use?
Finding your regimen for your own hair is sometimes "trial and error." Through my research and experience, here are some guidelines:
1)Does your hair feel dry? hard? straw-like? Go for a moisturizing conditioner such as Mizani Moisturfuse (add medium dryer heat), Uans crema (room temperature, no heat), AlterEgo Garlic Treatment (add medium dryer heat) or any other brand that is more focus on moisture versus strength. If you do not have time to shampoo and condition, then go for a moisture leave-in conditioner as an overnight treatment. Giovanni Direct Leave-in Weightless Moisture Conditioner is perfect. It will dampen the hair a little; but it will dry soft.
Pictured Mizani Moisturfuse and Uans conditioner in the old and new packaging. The sample size reflects the new logo and packaging.
2)When the hair is wet, does it feel mushy and limp? Go for a reconstructor or a protein treatment. If you going into a salon, please do not ask for a "deep conditioner" -- that is such a vague term. Specifically suggest "reconstructor" or protein treatment service. The stylist should know to follow the reconstructor up with a moisturizing conditioner. You should receive two treatments within the same visit and each component has to be rinsed out thoroughly. Adding heat to the treatment depends on the treatment used. Some product lines are designed to work without heat. Actually, heat can break down the treatment and make it less beneficial if the brand does not require heat. Read the directions on the product, if it does not suggest "heat cap" or add heat -- then assume that you do NOT need to add heat.
3)Are you worried about too much protein in the hair (i.e. overproteinized)? Try the protein conditioner. If the hair does not receive it meaning it just sits on the hair and will not absorb, then the hair has all the protein that it needs. Rinse it out thoroughly! Then go for a moisturizing treatment to balance the protein out. Too much protein will cause breakage in dry, low humidity weather. Some great moisture treatments were listed in question one above. If it appears that you have gotten too much protein in the hair, then go for the moisturizing conditioner that you can add heat. The heat should raise the cuticles slightly for more intense softening.
4)Do you have transitional hair (i.e. growing out a chemical, two different textures)? Your natural, unprocessed hair has different protein/moisture balance needs versus your straighter, relaxed hair. Prepare for breakage. Use moisture leave-in conditioners such as Giovanni Direct Leave-in Weightless Moisture Conditioner for an overnight moisture boost. Caution: Moisture leave-in conditioners go on a little wet for those worried about reversion from a press service.
5)What if you are flat ironing? Typically, you should be using thermal/heat protectant leave-in sprays for additional protein and moisture support to protect the hair from the infrared heat damage. On the flipside, the extra protein support that is added to protect the hair can still result in breakage in low humidity/dry weather. Why? Extra protein plus hot tools plus dry weather . . . a recipe for breakage for chemically treated hair (i.e. highlighted or relaxed hair). In my experience, trying to balance protein support and moisture in the hair for flat-ironing purposes is a thin line. Add weather changes to the mix and hair breakage is likely to follow. I strongly suggest returning to the curling irons and older model flat irons that we had before all of the keratin treatments, thermal protection sprays, and flat iron serums. I have a separate article on "Infrared heat and flat irons" on this blog site.
6)What is overconditioning? This term is used loosely. If the hair is too soft from moisturizing treatments or steamers/hydration therapy, then it will not hold a curl. A protein boost may be needed to hold a curl. Please note that soft hair can be healthy hair; however, healthy hair may not always hold a curl or a style. Healthy hair will be dependent on a haircut for style and some products for styling control.
7) Which proteins to look for? Wheat protein seems to be neutral in smell, absorbs easily and works great! Animal protein usually has an musky odor, but works great too! Silk protein is used mostly in leave-in products and usually are accompanied by silicones which are sealants. I strongly suggest that your hair is in great condition before sealing it. Everything has its place and time to use.
8) What is the deal with oils? Coconut oil used an hour before shampooing is a great moisturizing treatment. Using it as an overnight treatment is even better if shampooing the following morning. Carefully about the Moccocan oils, argan oils, etc. Some of the ingredients may show dimethicone which is a silicone which is a sealant. Sealants make the hair look great but may block needed moisture and may be harder to shampoo back out. This could possibly result in breakage down the road.
9) What is the deal with weighless styling for movement? This look is glam and fabulous, but save it for the red carpet and special events! Treat your hair everyday like you treat your skin. Products like Keracare Overnight Moisture Treatment are lightweight and seem to protect the hair on a daily basis just by using a pea-size emulsified into hands prior to applying to the hair (not scalp). You may not look like "Hollywood" all the time from the daily moisturizing; but your hair will be ready when events arise when you need to impress!
In conclusion, hair breakage has everything to do with how naturally curly (or overcurly) your hair is, if it has been chemically altered, and how much heat is applied starting at the wet phase. I hope this article gets you thinking!
Wednesday, March 2, 2011
The Best relaxer for color treated hair?
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)