Thursday, March 15, 2012
Hair color: Progressive versus Non-progressive oxidation processing
On a more serious note, I just took a Chi color class. They are advertising it as ammonia-free as well as ppd-free. Those who are allergic to hair color are usually allergic to the PPD's. Please see my separate article about hair color allergies.
Also, while in the class, it was mentioned that the Chi hair color is non-progressive as far as its oxidation process. This technically means that it will not turn the client's hair darker than desired if you leave it on the hair past the normal processing time.
You may ask why is that important? Well, if you are foiling a client's hair for dimensional coloring, then unless you are a speed foiler or have an assistant, then hair color can be on a client's hair for an extended period of time. Imagine the first foil that you place in comparison to the time lapse on the last foil that you place. Get the picture?
Okay. If the color is progressive versus non-progressive, then the first foil you put in may have lifted to the desired color and then it may have started to darken back up. So you will not end up with the desired color by the time that you rinse all the foils out.
Your multi-dimensional color service would be ruined. Yes. I have had this happen to me in the past, and I had no idea why. Through enough color classes like Igora10 and Chi, I learned about non-progressive oxidation versus progressive oxidation.
Color lines such as Avlon's Moisturcolor and Schwarzkopf Igora10 hair color will go dark if you keep it on the client's hair longer than the recommended timing.
Chi and Wella color lines are non-progressive and pretty true to color.
The Chi Color line also offers Infra Shampoo and Color Lock Treatment. The Infra Shampoo is great for shampooing the "bad stuff" out of the color process. The Color Lock Treatment is designed to avoid "creeping oxidation." If for some reason, haircolor residue gets left in the hair, it can gradually continue lightening or damaging the hair at a slow pace. (i.e. creeping oxidation)
I initially heard this term: "creeping oxidation" in a hair class taught by platform artist Belinda Baker. It was relevant to relaxer residue getting stuck in the hair due to insufficient rinsing time and shampooing. The Chi Color Lock treatment is designed to assist in neutralizing all alkaline chemicals.