Phenomenal . . .

Phenomenal . . .
Life, Growth, and Connection (This sunflower was nourished by my hands.) 2010; Photography by Benita Blocker. Please become a follower of this blog.

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Friday, July 9, 2010

"Black Hair" and Getting rid of the Tangles!

I often have new clients come in ready to chop, chop, chop off all of their length because of the tangles! STOP!

Before you cut off all of your hair, TREAT it! You might be surprised!

1) Start with a deep cleansing shampoo such as Paul Mitchel Shampoo one or Design Essentials Organic Cleanse.
2) Then use a sulfate free moisturizing shampoo such as Pureology Hydrate and Pureology SuperSmooth.
3)Use a pure protein treatment such as Redken CAT. (Rinsing after each step)
4) Then use a moisturizing conditioner such as Mizani Moistufuse or Mizani Silk Cream Conditioner.

You should comb through all conditioner/treatments with a large conditioning comb. It should become more manageable as the conditioner begins to work. No more tangles!

These steps should work on both relaxed and natural hair!

For blowdrying: use Alfa parf Divine Cream, a leave-in spray strengthner, and a product for slip.

Leave-in strengthner examples: Paul Brown Hawaii Treat Elite or Design Essentials HCO.

Product for slip include Paul Mitchell Super Skinny Serum or Pureology Smoothing Elixir.

Use of leave-in conditioners during blow-dry will ensure less mechanical damage.

Monday, July 5, 2010

Thinning Hair? Avoid Sensitive Scalp Relaxers!

For over a year now, I had been concluding that Sensitive Scalp Relaxers can cause thinning and dry scalp problems. It is now that I have started to convert my sensitive scalp clients to Paul Mitchell relaxers, that I see significant improvement to their hair and scalp.

Many sensitive scalp relaxers still have sodium hydroxide in its contents. The sodium hydroxide is held within a calcuim hydroxide unit. So then you have to worry about a calcium buildup after the sodium hydroxide unit is released.

Some relaxer systems use guanduiane hydroxide, etc. I believe all of the sensitive scalp relaxers leave leftovers deposits in the hair and scalp.

Also, according to

Here are some of the problems with no-lye relaxers:

The chemical uses a calcium compound (calcium hydroxide) that builds up on the hair. This build-up keeps the hair from getting any moisture because it seals off the cuticle. They cause a dry scalp. They cause extremely dry hair. A "conditioning lye relaxer" is best.

Now, in my opinion, my clients that are on sodium hydroxide or "lye relaxers" have had no hair nor scalp challenges. Other words, no problems!

If you are slow to get off the sensitive scalp formulas, try using Organic Root Stimulator's Creamy Aloe Shampoo to remove buildup for regular shampoo services. Try KeraCare's Demineralization Wipes during the conditioning phase. Wipe in the direction of the cuticle. Straight Request brand also has an After Calcium conditioner.

These products should help remove buildup in the hair, but they may not be enough to treat any scalp challenges such as dry scalp and/or thinning.

My favorite lye relaxers are 1) Fiberguard Affirm (has Fiber Strengthening Complex) and 2) Paul Mitchell.

I used to think the sodium hydroxide or lye was bad because it caused people to burn, but now, I know that when it is mixed with the right conditioning ingredients versus a hydroxide derivative, the original is best!

In addition, Mild Paul Mitchell and Mild Fiberguard Affirm are safer to use more frequently on coarser hair. Every 5 to 7 weeks is good for extremely curly, coarse hair because the mild strength will only texturize it. Also, I add the Paul Mitchell SuperStrenghtener to every relaxer process as well as a Mizani Butter Blend spray and Graham Webb's Back to Basics Coconut Mango to balance out oil and moisture blend.

Yes! A lot of products, but it is worth it to have healthy, long hair!