Roller Sets Still Rule in 2014

 Hair By Benita Blocker. Applebaum Salon.  December 2013/January 2014.  New Year's Eve Roller Set!

• Vitale Pro High Comfort Relaxer touch-up -Check!
• Trim- Check!
• Nairobi Setting Lotion and Nairobi Foam - Check!
• Red Mesh Roller Set - Check!
• One hour dryer time - Check!

There are no hair extensions.  Color highlights completed by Master Hairstylist Benita Blocker on a separate visit.

Wet sets/Roller sets rule for relaxed tresses!

Shikakai Hair Growth Elixir by AfroVeda

The Shikakai hair Growth Elixir by AfroVeda is a concentrated blend of Ayurvedic inspired oils, herbs, and essential oils.

The product seems to be a thick oil pouring out of the bottle, but it surprisingly seems almost weightless on the hair and scalp.

In addition, I didn't like the herbal smell that lingered with it, but surprisingly, the smell was gone by the next morning.  Also, my hair and scalp did NOT feel greasy.

My initial thoughts on this product was a "NO" but after the smell went away and it didn't make me feel like I was going to have to shampoo it out - it seems to be worthy enough for me to continue trying out and to share with others before it expires.  It is a paraben-free product.

Intro: Jamaican Mango and Lime Locking Gels

The Sally's Beauty Supply store that I patronized recently only carried the Resistant Formula of the Jamaican Mango and Lime Locking Gel.  It is white in color, and I have not tried it out yet.

Both the originial formula and the Resistant formulas both smell "deliciously fruitty fresh."  The orange colored original formula absorbs into my Micro-locks nicely without residue. I never worried about being heavy handed, but according to www.dreadlock-noir.blogspot.com, the gentleman felt that the white colored, resistant formula seems to leave a cast look that eventually fades away after a few days.

I will update this Introduction at a later date after I experiment with the Resistant Formula.

Review: Affirm MoisturColor Semi-Permanent Hair Color

Well, it's a "thumbs up" for Affirm Moisturcolor Conditioning Semi-Permanent Hair Color.  It does provide adequate coverage for those who need gray coverage on the same day as the relaxer.  It does require a separate step like the Sebastian Cellophanes Deep Brunette color required, but there is no mixing needed.  It is truly an "out of the bottle" haircolor.

Also, the best news is that the "4N" delivers a nice brown highlight to the gray without any brazziness nor gold tones.  The base color is neutral for both the "2N" and the "4N."

The "2N" delivers a darkest brown to natural black effect to the hair.  The "4N" delivers a medium to light brown effect to hair.  The bottles come with expiration dates on them.

I recommend a brush application to avoid oversaturating the scalp. The consistency of this haircolor is slightly runny. Also, the directions read "Shake Well."

Hairstylists and clients do benefit from sharing reviews like this.  Everyone is short on time and money - I strongly encouraged other hairstylists to share discoveries that work.

Have a great Holiday!

Soft Sheen Carson Advanced Relaxer System Review

 I had a reader to inquire about one of my previous blog articles regarding the Keratin Whipped Creme relaxer by Soft Sheen Carson.  I decided to test this relaxer trial size on some Type 4 hair samples.  The "afro" hair sample is in the picture above with the trial size relaxer system that I obtained from a hair show.

The relaxer was very creamy, and I had to be heavy handed to get all the curls saturated with the relaxer.

 I had to work the relaxer with my fingers (body heat), and I also used a comb.  Then I let it sit for another 8 minutes.

Upon neutralizing, conditioning before shampooing, some of my hair sample became undone and washed into the shampoo bowl.  Overall, I love the softness and straightness of the final results of this relaxer system on the remainder of the hair sample that remained in place.  This SmartLye relaxer system is not an aggressive straightener.  Total straighening time including application was probably 12 minutes.

I have no idea if someone with a sensitive scalp will be able to tolerate it, but if their hair is resistant, I do not think that this relaxer is a good fit.  You would have to work it through to get it straightened.

As far as the rinsing out of the relaxer, it did NOT rinse out easily.  I had to really manipulate the hair sample to release the relaxer from around it.  So obviously, there are a lot of conditioners in this relaxer system which like to cling.

Overall, if someone was using this relaxer system for home use, it may be perfect because of the conditioning aspect of it, and it's not overly aggressive, but seems to have to the ability to straighten hair even resistant hair with a little extra "elbow grease."  If you are sensitive scalp and have resistant hair, I would NOT go with this one.

Also, the trial relaxer product that I used to test with was probably over two years old but not expired.  Usually, three years is the standard shelf life for relaxers.

Blue Ivy, Beyonce, and Hair

Photo credit:  www.theapod.com

Besides Rihanna's AMA Doobie hairstyle, Beyonce's Blue Ivy Carter has had a lot of talk about her fro.

Based on the natural curl patterns that both Beyonce and Jay Z both have according to my own photo evaluations,  Blue Ivy was destined to have a soft, overcurly curl pattern.  Granted, sometimes genes will skip generations, but Blue Ivy's fro looks to be a Type 3c  curl pattern which looks to be fine as far as texture is concerned.

I think that Beyonce is doing the best thing for Blue Ivy's hair . . . just let it grow and thicken and decide later whether to lock it, press it, or chemically alter it.

People have to remember Beyonce and Jay Z are trendsetters.  They lead.  The only advice they will probably listen to is from fan's comments of their music, clothes, or anything driving their net worth.

Blue Ivy's hair is not attached to any fan base at this time neither do they seem to be seeking any opinions on her hair.

Beyonce is focussed on her newly released digital album on itunes.  According to online news, Target stores may NOT carry this latest CD because it was released digitally before being released physically.  This news supposedly is not stopping Beyonce's fans from loving the new album.

Also, I want to make a note that Beyonce and Jay Z have been speculated to be a part of the Illuminati (secret society).  During Rihanna's performance at the AMA's, she did make a hand sign that people associate with the Illuminati.  Rihanna is also in Jay Z's music camp.  I believe there is something to the Illuminati theories.

Believe what you would like, but as far as Beyonce and Jay Z are concerned, I advise taking notes versus criticizing.  I think that they are definitely a family to follow.

Looking at my Lock Length during the Holidays

 I bantu knotted my hair last night with Styling lotion. I skipped my hydration spray this morning.  I only used two medium size clippies, and I got a cute partial bob style.

I appreciate my micro-locks.  However, about 20% seem to be too small to stay coiled, but most are learning to twist and turn.  It's all good, and it's almost Christmas time.  

I looked back at my December 2012 pictures a year ago, and I thank God that I fought my fight.  These locks have been an emotional roller coaster for me, my business, and my corporate standing but through Christ, I have overcame.

The Charlotte, NC Sisterlocks training starts within about three weeks.  This will be my third training, but I am looking forward to sharing my Sisterlocks findings and receiving direct feedback.

Suspicious Hair Chemicals at Rite Aid Drugstore

So today, December 16, 2013, I visited my local Rite Aid Drugstore in Cornelius, NC and decided to visit the ethnic hair product aisle.  I could not believe all the discolored packaging.  I inspected some of the boxes to look at manufacture codes, and I believe that some of this product had an expired shelf life.  Others could be spoiled from sun damage.

The surprising thing is that where these products were positioned in the drugstore,  there was NO sunlight nor opportunity for sun damage.  So I have reason to believe that either the packages came into the store "spoiled/expired" or  they were recently relocated to discontinue sun damage.  Either way, hair chemicals should not be sold if the packaging looks like these in this article.

Initially, I was thinking maybe this Rite Aid Drugstore was only neglecting the Ethnic hair products as far as keeping the products fresh for consumer purchasing so I went to the regular haircolor aisle, and I also found discolored packaging.  The fresher product in the back and the discolored packaging in the front.

Luckily, the newer packaging was behind the discolored packaging on both aisles so I really had a great opportunity to prove that it was not my eyes deceiving me.  

I have to change out posters in my salon storefront every other month because the sun discolors them.  So I know what damage the sun can do to artwork and inks within posters.  The discoloration that I saw on the shelves stuck out like a beam of light.

I have written other articles on expired products such as hair glue, styling gels, conditioners, setting lotions, etc.  Please do call the manufacturer to confirm that your hair chemical is fresh before using them at home.

Hairstylists, please stand your ground if a hair distributor is trying to push suspected old products on you.  After three years, most hair products are probably going to start losing performance. 

Everyone, please be careful of expired hair products especially if they are chemicals!

Foil Placement: Quality versus Quantity

Hair by Benita Blocker. 2013. 

 Hair by Benita Blocker. 2013

Hair by Benita Blocker. 2013.

This client was ready for highlights. Can you guess how many foiled pieces that I picked up to achieve this highlighted look?

I used the term "foiled pieces" because a few slices were foiled using the sandwich method which is when two foils are used on one slice of hair.  The term "slices" is a parting term for hair by the way.

Okay, time's up!  How many "slices" or "pieces" did I foil up for this look?  Eleven (11)!  Can you believe it?

Foils that are sliced and strategically placed can give the illusion of many highlights.

I only foiled within the top large "horseshoe" area. I used the Wella Blondor Lightener and cellophane foils.

Some people are afraid of bleach, but it's the safest way of lifting "black colored" hair.  The client may be naturally black or artificially black.  Permanent haircolor does not lift permanent haircolor so if you need a significant color "lift, " lightener or color remover usually has to be used first.

I blow dried and styled the client's hair with the traditional stove and marcel iron. I also kept the highlights an inch away from the scalp area because she is a client who gets relaxers about every 8 weeks.

Fiberguard Affirm is the only relaxer system that I trust for double processed hair.  Those with a sensitive scalp may be sensitive to the Fiberguard relaxer system; therefore, I do not recommend double processing anyone with a sensitive scalp or extremely resistant hair.

Game Changer: Resistant or Non-pliable Hair

So I decided to use an "edge gel" on my hairline to give my lock styling a more polished appearance.

Within two hours, my hairline was no longer "laid."  Wow!  So the "edge gel" is NO match for my resistant curl pattern.  So with that said, I formally introduce another category of hair to the "natural community" - resistant or non-resistant hair.  In Sisterlocks terminology, the category would be non-pliable or pliable hair respectively.

So you can be a Type 3 or even a Type 4c as far as curl pattern or texture is concerned, but whether or not your hair is resistant is going to be another factor in your hair regimen.

Resistance equals shrinkage.  Some people relate to the term "shrinkage" better than "resistance."

If your curl pattern's behavior is resistant to elongation (i.e. extremely quick shrinkage speeds), then the relaxers must work longer and harder to soften the hair strand to allow for permanent straightening. Upon successful relaxation of the resistant hair strands, the hair strands will undoubtedly be weaker than someone who gets their less resistant hair relaxed.

The curl pattern actually is less relevant because the resistance level becomes the factor in determining whether the "relaxer" takes as well.

So where am I going with this train of thought?  I strongly feel that those with extremely "resistant" hair should consider controlling their curl pattern by locking it versus using chemicals to control it.

Am I trying to get everyone to lock their hair?  NO.  Definitely not.  I have some clients with gorgeous, moderate to low resistant hair that are doing superb with relaxers.  They are growing long into mid-back lengths.  I would not dare encourage these clients to go natural because the relaxer systems WORK for them.

However, I have encountered and seen many Black women in public that should give up the relaxers.  It's not that they have "bad hair."  It's not that they don't "take care" of their hair.  It's not the relaxer system that they are using is inferior.  What it is . . . their hair needs a regimen that works with their curl pattern versus against it.  That regimen will more than likely be traditional locking of the hair by coiling or twisting.

I do NOT suggest interlocking or Sisterlock'ing resistant hair that falls into a Type 4 curl pattern.  I actually ran into yet another lady with long micro-locks.  She actually started twisting her hair in lieu of interlocking because (like me) the interlocking method with the tool was damaging her hair in her opinion.

On the flip side, I definitely have run into women who have spent a lot of money and time trying to coil and twist their hair, only to discover that their hair will NOT stay coiled.  These women would benefit from the interlocking method (such as Sisterlocks) for maintaining locks.

I hope that my message in this article is not sounding redundant, so let me suggest to those ready for a change:

1) Learn your curl pattern type, texture, resistance/pliability level.

2) Choose the path that works for your own unique hair type.

You may be asking - how do I learn my hair type, etc.?  My answer is simply this:

1) If your current hair care regimen IS working for you, then do NOT change a thing.  You do not need to discover your natural curl pattern unless you want to join the "curly" movement.

2) However, if your hair is constantly consuming your life and quality of life about every month trying to control the new growth, then discontinue what has NOT been working and consider protective styling for about two or three months.  This will allow your virgin hair to grow in at your root area.

3) When you achieve your two or three months of hot iron-free and chemical-free hair, start studying your new inch or inch and a half of new growth.  Study the elongation and shrinkage speeds. Study how it coils.

4) Decide on your new path for your hair before performing a "big chop."

Need help with this evaluation?  And you are in the Charlotte, NC area?  Contact me at Applebaum Salon.  (www.thefashionfloor.com)  We anticipate expansion within the coming year.

Benita's Favorite Hair Products of 2013

My favorite hair related products and accessories for 2013 are:

Favorite Hair Styling Accessory
Clippies - all different sizes (colors: black, animal print, gray, and brown)

Favorite Firm Roller Set Lotion
VitalePro 3 in 1 Design Lotion

Favorite Lightweight Roller Set Foam
Jane Carter Solution Wrap N Roll

Favorite Overnight Hairdressing
KeraCare Overnight Moisturizing Treatment

Favorite Relaxer System for Hair that is NOT color-treated - It's a tie!
Paul Mitchell Relaxer (Mild and Regular Strength) and
Vitale Pro High Comfort Regular Relaxer

Favorite Relaxer System for Color-Treated hair
Fiberguard Affirm Mild relaxer

Favorite Leave-in Conditioners for Blow-dry of Relaxed Hair
Joico Leave-in Detangler and
Paul Mitchell Awapuhi Wild Ginger Styling Treatment Oil

Favorite Straightening Styling Aide for Medium to Coarse hair
My Honey Child Sophia's Old Fashioned Hair Grease

Favorite Straightening Styling Aide for Fine hair
Pureology Shinemax

Favorite DreadLock Hydration Spray
Ferm Moisturizing Aqualizer

Favorite DreadLock Tightening/Twisting Gel for professionals
Nahbila's Aloe Peppermint Twisting Gel (scalp stimulating and aloe vera based)

Favorite DreadLock Tightening/Twisting Gel for consumers
Jamaican Mango and Lime Locking Gel

Favorite Pure Protein Treatment (Step 1 of 2)
Redken CAT (protein reconstructing treatment)

Happy Holidays!!!!

Cornstarch: The Synthetic Hair De-Shiner

So I heard that cornstarch and/or baby powder will de-shine synthetic hair weaves and wigs.  So I figured that I would give it a try.  Relax,  this pile of hair has NOT been treated yet.

I picked up corn starch from the grocery store for $1.00 USD.

 These two strips of hair in the picture above are straight from the package new.  No cornstarch on either piece.  I then took the piece on the right and put cornstarch mainly at the top and started working the cornstarch into the weave strip throughout the ends.

Amazingly, the piece on the right that has been treated with cornstarch is duller, and it feels great.  You can be as heavy handed with the cornstarch that you want especially working under dry conditions.  The excess cornstarch is not going to cling to the synthetic hair. Careful about the fine dust that is generated from manipulating the package.  I had to hold my breath only because a cloud of dust formed for a few seconds when trying to lightly pound the package to close it.

The cornstarch does work for de-shining synthetic hair!

The Restroom Mirror: The Decision Spot

Photo credit:  www.daherc.net

The hairstylist has completed the final touch, and you are still trying to decide if you like the new hairstyle or if you can work with it or not.  So where do you head to make the final decision?  The restroom MIRROR.

LOL! Does that sound familiar?  We have all done it!  Sometimes it is after leaving the dentist office or the doctor's office.

In the restroom is where you can shake it, feel it, finger through it, analyze it, and really decide if you need further tweaking.

Maybe you need a little more curl?  Maybe you need to blend the partings from the roller set more?  Maybe you need another track added?  Maybe you need some holding spray?  Maybe you need some more shine spray?  Maybe you want a lower taper in the back?  Maybe you want more of a distinct angle in your haircut?  Maybe you need an area thinned out?  All of these things the hairstylist can gladly perform immediately as a final gesture.

Now, what if the hair color is still too brassy or what if the hair is falling too flat?  Then you have to decide: Is it something that you need immediate correction or not?  If it can wait, please discuss the desired change with the hairstylist and see what she suggests to resolve the situation.  Rescheduling for a free correction  within a week is always desirable.  However, if immediate correction is desired, then inform the hairstylist that you have the time to be re-serviced and are willing to work around her schedule for the day.

Professional clients will pay for services rendered, and professional hairstylists know that customer satisfaction is required for repeat business.

Both hairstylist and client have to be committed to the long term partnership.  Sometimes it takes three to six months depending on frequency of visits for the hairstylist to learn your hair. It sometimes takes the client the same amount of time to feel comfortable about the direction the hairstylist is taking with one's hair.

Let me also re-emphasize the definition of professional status . . .  professional means that you make a living from that particular profession.  So if the hairstylist works full-time as a hairdresser or is trying to transition into full-time hairstyling, then I consider them a hair professional.

Now, depending on where the restrooms are located, you may be required to pay before making your "mirror decision."  Regardless, you should always feel like an important client and that your satisfaction matters.

Silver Fox Weave: Temporary Solution for Blending

 The articles that are popular on my blog right now are for quickweaves and relaxers. So people are apparently looking for Holiday hair solutions.  So what about the silver foxes out there?  Matching up gray hair for extensions and weave is more challenging.  Color #51 has a 25% percentile of gray hair mixed with Black hair, and the weft may be black.  For those with more silver than black, the dark weft of extension hair really stands out and does not blend.  So if there are any silver foxes looking for longer length for the Holidays, then you can try the Beyond Zone Color Bomb 2 temporary color spray to lightening the weft of the extension hair before adding it in.

I used the "straight laced White" color to temporary lighten the weft hair on the left in the picture above.  I also had to let it dry some before handling.  The temporary color washes out so a rainy day is not going to be a good idea.  This is a short term Holiday hair solution for a special occasion event.  I would also recommend white hair glue versus the black hair glue when using light colored hair.

Enjoy the Holiday festivities and look fabulous while having fun!

My 16 months and a week Microlocks Showcase

It's December 2013 and I'm all glammed up!  I  used the "clippies" below to assist in lock styling in the picture of me in brown sweater.  My thickness is still not what I once had, but I am able to manipulate the length of my locks to give me volume.  Also, I purchased new blush color from MAC!  Love it!

I bought these clippies from the H&M store.  About $2.95 for 12.  They are not going to last forever, but they are small enough for me to use about seven clippies in the front without looking tacky.  Can you tell in the picture above?

Okay, there are No Clippies in this picture with the animal print top!  I just took the bantu knots out and styled.  So the locks had a firmness to them. The shadow in the picture makes my lock style look like a bob.  I can envision my bob style by December 2014. (another year easily!)

Rain and sleeping on my locks definitely loosens the hold of the Lock Styling Lotion.  The daily spray also softens the styling.  So I will be clip styling to keep some shape.

I also want to address that tightening locks can be done in a clockwise turning or a counterclockwise turning.

Sisterlocks patterns are mostly counterclockwise.  I find when I am twisting, it depends on how I am holding my head and my arms placement.  Some of my locks are twisted clockwise and some counter-clockwise.  I think that by the third hour of finger twisting - I am losing concentration so I try to follow how each lock is naturally twisting.

Also, the last Lily of the Desert Aloe Vera Gelly that I used would not absorb into my locks this last tightening session.  I do not know if something in my shampoo was blocking it???  I skipped conditioning all together.  So I had to go back to the Jamaican Lime and Mango Locking Gel.  Then I ran out of that and had to finish my head with Nahbila's Peppermint Twisting Gel.  The gels got the job done so I am grateful, and I love both products.

Okay, it may be New Years for the next check-in!

My 16 Months Microlocks Check-in

 So I reached my 16 months of microlocks, and I believe that I am on my final phase of learning my hair's needs.  Sisterlocks preaches us to limit product usage, but I started noticing random strands of hair that had not fully matted into the lock was breaking off.  So no, I was not losing locks, but similar to if I had a natural afro, I saw a few strands of natural unlocked hair break off as I styled my hair.  So as for my hair, I started using a spray moisturizer everyday to keep it hydrated.  I am convinced that my scalp does not produce enough oil to keep my locks hydrated.  In addition, I am not drinking 64 ounces of water per day either.

So I tried the Sisterlocks spray moisturizer, and it seemed too lightweight.  I need something that was going to lock the hydration in without being sticky.  So far Avlon's Ferm Moisturizing Aqualizer seems to do the trick!  It sprays on and absorbs into my locks without me having to rub it in.  I tried Design Essentials "Mist and Shine," but it leaves an "Armour All" look to my micro-locks so I have to manipulate the product into my locks.  So the Design Essentials required too much work.  The Ferm Moisturizing Aqualizer allows me to spray to my heart's content without any product buildup.  I love it!  Ferm is Avlon's "bodywave/soft curl" system.  The Aqualizer says that it is good for hair and scalp.  The down side is that it has propylene glycol in the ingredients, but until I find another spray that seals in moisture, Ferm Aqualizer is it!  By the way, I also tried Bee Mine's Juicy spray, and I felt that it caused too much product buildup for everyday use.  The paraben free spray may be close to expiring, but it smelled fine.  I just plan to stick with the Aqualizer spray for now.

 Okay, I just washed my hair. It was six weeks since my last tightening session.  It is time to tame my little afro.   I usually can tell when people start staring at my roots just a little too long that I know that I am getting past due for a retightening or root twist.

For those who constantly ask are those locks permanent?  Well, they are just as permanent as a relaxer is.

1) My hair grows out of my scalp loose as it has always done.
2) There is a line of demarcation between my new growth and my matured part of my locks as seen in the picture above.
3) The locks control my natural hair similar to how a relaxer chemically controls the natural hair.
4) I finger comb my locks versus using a "real" hair comb.

For those who wonder why locks have thinner roots and fatter ends?  Well, your natural shedded hair drops into the lock compacting it and making it fatter.  If there is significant fatness in the ends of the locks, then you may be shedding abnormally which could be because the locks are not staying hydrated enough or there is a health issue that is affecting your scalp internally.  If you locks get too thin at the roots, they will break off.

1) So use a daily moisturizing spray if your scalp does not produce enough oil naturally.
2) Get your iron level checked as well as check to see if your prescription drugs have any side effects that you need to be aware of.

Okay, back to me and my hair, I just retightened the roots.  Four hours with the bantu knots.  Can you believe that my locks/ my hair is long enough to bantu now without any rubber bands?  Yes, my locks are supporting themselves without any help.  So no more perm rods for curls!  I am sooooo happy at my progress!  I had a vacation day so I did not get all glamoured up, but I will take another glam picture soon to showcase my 16+ months micro-locks!

This was a great check-in!

Review: Beautiful Collection Advanced Gray Solution

 Clairol's Beautiful Collection Advanced Gray Solution  delivers results that vary from individual to individual.  Resistant gray hair may require heat processing and using the "Midnight Black" in order to achieve adequate "dark brown" gray coverage.  Then on the flip side,  those with porous, gray hair, sitting at room temperature and just using the "Rich Dark Brown" color can turn their hair's color almost Black.

Even as far as relaxer day goes, the directions does not recommend any heat, but for some resistant gray clients, I find that 10 minutes under medium heat helps.  While, non-resistant gray clients process fine at room temperature on the same day as the relaxer.

The consistency of this color formula is thin enough to cocktail with a conditioner which for some clients with non-resistant gray, cocktailing provides adequate gray coverage and saves time.

Another important observation regarding the Advanced Gray Solution is that there is an excessive amount of "ash/green" as the base color.  So if your client has "dirty blonde" ends, then they may grab a greenish color as you rinse this Advanced Gray Solution from the roots.  If this happens, I found the Tressa "Cocoa" Watercolors shampoo neutralizes the greenish hue from the porous ends.

I began experimenting with this Beautiful Collection color line because the Sebastian Cellophanes color line changed their formula, and I found it to be less effective in covering gray.  I am not completely happy with the inconsistent results of the Beautiful Collection Advanced Gray Solution, so I am planning to begin using Avlon's Moisturcolor Semi-permanent color to see how effective and consistent it works. I will keep you posted.