Yes, it is three weeks later from my last True Indulgence relaxer, and I decided to try roller setting my hair. I felt that I had been using the hot curling iron too often trying to tighten up my curls and to smooth out some of the under relaxed areas. The interesting thing about roller setting my own hair was that I was not able to get the roots pulled straight, however, the texture in the roots seem to give overall volume to the hair. I have found that although initial blowdry and hot curling my hair, it is straight; I actually like my hair better when more texture comes into the roots on the second to third day. Weird right? So with the roller set, I start with second to third day hair. Not a bad deal! Also, the next morning after sleeping on it, a few areas of my head were "pressed out" just from my head sleeping on it. I just fingered style the next morning with a little hairspray and hairdressing. My longer pieces of hair allow me the option of tucking behind my ear or bringing it forward for an edgy look. I loved the volume that I acheived in my hair without any extra heat. I still have some frizzy areas but overall, the shine on the hair is uniform. I like the roller set! It does not look perfect as I was setting it, but the end result was "perfectly fine" for me!
Maintaining phenomenal hair through education on techniques, tools, and products!
Phenomenal . . .
![Phenomenal . . .](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_ESZEFDoWkBo/TOQGGu0kAwI/AAAAAAAAANI/59si7Qg2oS0/S742/IMG00452-20100717-1551.jpg)
Life, Growth, and Connection (This sunflower was nourished by my hands.) 2010; Photography by Benita Blocker. Please become a follower of this blog.
Total Pageviews
Monday, September 26, 2011
Three Weeks Followup: Roller Set Review
Yes, it is three weeks later from my last True Indulgence relaxer, and I decided to try roller setting my hair. I felt that I had been using the hot curling iron too often trying to tighten up my curls and to smooth out some of the under relaxed areas. The interesting thing about roller setting my own hair was that I was not able to get the roots pulled straight, however, the texture in the roots seem to give overall volume to the hair. I have found that although initial blowdry and hot curling my hair, it is straight; I actually like my hair better when more texture comes into the roots on the second to third day. Weird right? So with the roller set, I start with second to third day hair. Not a bad deal! Also, the next morning after sleeping on it, a few areas of my head were "pressed out" just from my head sleeping on it. I just fingered style the next morning with a little hairspray and hairdressing. My longer pieces of hair allow me the option of tucking behind my ear or bringing it forward for an edgy look. I loved the volume that I acheived in my hair without any extra heat. I still have some frizzy areas but overall, the shine on the hair is uniform. I like the roller set! It does not look perfect as I was setting it, but the end result was "perfectly fine" for me!
Sunday, September 25, 2011
Four Quadrant Bantu knot set for Nighttime
My longer hair clients are loving this simple nighttime bantu knot set.
Click on "Bantu Knot set" Or copy/paste the following: http://dorcasola.blogspot.com/2011/07/hair-diaries-heat-free-styling.html
Enjoy!
Click on "Bantu Knot set" Or copy/paste the following: http://dorcasola.blogspot.com/2011/07/hair-diaries-heat-free-styling.html
Enjoy!
A New Look at the 27 piece quick weave
Actress Halle Berry was my inspiration for this quick weave hairstyle. It was achieved by performing the 27 piece gluefree quickweave method with invisible part. Questions about 27 piece quick weave? Please see my article on 27 piece weave. Questions about gluefree quickweave? Please see my article on the gluefree quickweave method. This look took about three hours for me to complete including the washing, molding, and final styling. I used the invisible part method to assist with my shaping. Please see my article on invisible part quick weave. I did use a few longer tracks from another package of commercial hair in order to give me the accent pieces and the "swoop!" I also used the closure piece that was included in the 27 pieces package. I completed the invisi-part before completing the final closure. I added a only a little of the colored hair. The primary color is 1B and the accent red color was #118.
The mannequin had shorter and slightly thin hair so the quickweave laid flat. I was absolutely thrilled at the beauty of the 27 pieces. The hair is already pre-curled for you! I had to hot iron the longer pieces from a different package to blend into the 27 piece hair, but I did not clipper cut. I used my shears to blend in the longer pieces, then just finger styled. Hairspray and styling spritz were also used. I absolutely adore this look!
Tuesday, September 20, 2011
The Next Level of Protein Smoothing Treatments
With so much controversy about formaldehyde and formaldehyde deriatives, traditional keratin treatments have been banned in some areas and the public cautioned. So now, there is a new wave of protein smoothing treatments that are 100% certified formaldehyde free. They are not considered keratin treatments. Their technology is more amino acid or amino carrier technology. Arosci has its Intensive Restructuring System. Chi/Farouk has its Curl Transformation System. Thermafuse has its Fahrenheit 450 System.
Across the board, almost all major brands are coming out with this safer version of smoothing treatments. According to the reviews, people feel that these newer versions are the "real deal." They feel it is healthier, and it looks and feels great.
My biggest issue with these smoothing treatments is that the "ceramic/ionic" flat irons are still required to infuse the treatment into the hair.
My followers know that I am totally against flat irons now that I have seen the havoc they have been doing on hair in general at high temperatures. The more curl that you are trying to get rid of, then the higher the temperatures being used.
The sooner people discontinue flat ironing at hot temperatures, then the sooner their hair will be on the way to recovery.
Please see my article on "Flat Iron Free Pledge."
Interested in seeing a video on the Arosci Intensive Restructuring System? Check out the video from another blog.
( http://www.mylonghairjourney.co.uk/2011/12/arosci-intensive-restructuring-system.html )
Monday, September 19, 2011
Straight Talk about Straightening Hair
![](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oQf4uHx42N4/Tnf3-5uC68I/AAAAAAAABAs/KbtHSZ0WEns/s320/straighthairfromgoldstar.jpg)
Is this hair Relaxed or Hard Pressed? Let us review some Questions and Answers about straightening hair:
Should you apply relaxer to hair that has been hard pressed or heat trained? In order to answer that question, it is important to understand that sometimes hair that is "hard pressed" or "heat trained" has become permanently straightened like a relaxer. The hair literally may be so straight that even when the hair is wet, it will not curl or wave up. Relaxers are designed for "new growth" or unprocessed hair. If the hair has been permanently processed by heat or a previous relaxer service, then one would risk potential breakage in the overprocessed areas. So relaxing hard pressed/heat trained hair is not a good idea.
Can you go back and forth between wearing your natural curls and straightening your hair? If you are satisfied with a soft press and some reversion, then you can go back and forth. However, if you desire to achieve extremely straight hair, you may risk permanently straightening your hair from excessive heat temperatures thus preventing you from wearing your natural curls without some straight, stringy ends surfacing.
So how to maintain little girls' hair? In my opinion, if the little girl does not have a "job" that requires a straight hairdo nor a social event that require a specified look, then twists and puffballs are essential up until puberty age. I would recommend learning to deal with peer pressure ahead of time. Embracing one's curl pattern is a great opportunity to become a leader versus a follower. Also, online blogs and "youtube" video offer some great children styling ideas.
So when it is time to go from "afro" to "relaxer," what should you expect? Type 3 curl patterns usually will straighten within one relaxer service. Type 4 curl patterns may take two or three relaxer services. Similar to permanent color, going from black to blonde in one setting is not healthy for anyone's hair. Typically, one can safely lift the haircolor up about three levels at a time. So that means that going from black to blonde should take about three separate color services within a three month period. You may be asking how did we start talking about hair color when we had been talking about straightening. Well, please understand that if you can weaken your hair by drastically changing your haircolor in one setting, then you can weaken your hair by drastically altering your curl pattern in one setting. For kinky curly hair, consider about two relaxer services within one month about two weeks apart. If the hair is still easy to revert in high humidity, then go for a third relaxer service to get the hair a little closer to 80% in curl reduction. Each "starter" relaxer service should be treated like a virgin application concentrating on midshaft to ends first and then applying relaxer to the roots near the scalp last. If there's only two weeks between relaxer services, then skipping the roots and just focussing on the ends may be all that is necessary. It is a personal judgement call based on your visual evaluation of your hair needs. Remember the heat from the scalp is going to process quicker. As the ends expand away from the scalp, they process slower because there is less "scalp heat." Similar to color touch-ups, about an inch or farther from the scalp processes much slower because the hair is so far away from the scalp . . . and NO do NOT sit under a hairdryer trying to speed the process up! Patience is key. Remember changing your curl pattern may not be a one shot deal. So if you have a big event, you need about a month or two to get your "curl reduction" under control especially if you are a resistant, type 4 curl pattern.
This is real talk about straightening curly hair.
Sunday, September 18, 2011
Hair Tool Review: Roller pin, bobby pin, hair pin
The "super size" bobby pin next to the jumbo magnetic roller is called a "roller pin." Roller pins can be used at night to secure your wrap. They can also be used for a wet set on rollers.
Of course, bobby pins are handy to anchor hair in place securely. They come in various hair colors: black, brown, gold, silver.
Hair pins are for securing hair into a bun or french roll or a knot in which a soft shaping is needed. Notice the hair pin does not have a closure. They are mainly used for updo hairstyling.
Spin pins (not pictured) have become a topic of interest. More on those at another date . . .
Two Weeks Later: True Indulgence Relaxer
It is two weeks since my last True Indulgence Relaxer. I am still pleased with the results. I still have a little more texture in the back than I would like. It is easy to revert to frizz after sweating or if I use a water based hair moisturizer. I am still experimenting with daily hairdressing. I have tried Big Bad D's Stretch and Bee Mine Luscious Cream Moisturizer. I am in the process of trying Profectiv MegaGrowth Daily Anti-breakage Strengthener. By the way, Profectiv MegaGrowth is on sale at Sallys Beauty Supply for September 2011. Another lady with high lift color was using it to maintain her blonde. It seemed to work plus it is cheaper than the previous two products that I named. I don't mind paying a lot for a product, but if I can get good results for less . . . I definitely think it is worth evaluating. The Bee Mine Luscious Cream Moisturizer is organic, natural, and lightweight that I can use for hair or scalp. Profectiv MegaGrowth is mainly for my hair only. Big Bad D's stretch cream is heat activated so I will use only if I am touching up my style with the curling iron.
As you can see, I am still enjoying my hair. I am still trimming as needed. My goal is to hot iron only once a week. I have my fingers crossed. I have been sweating the roots out. Hopefully, I will get a good regimen down to share.
Tuesday, September 13, 2011
What Women Want: Miss Universe 2011
What Women Want: Miss Universe 2011 (Click here to check out Miss Angola. Miss Angola won! This sister sported her bun through out the competition. I was proud! No long flowing, "blow in the wind" hair . . . just simple, elegant, and natural. No gel downed edges. Just pure beauty. This article by another blogger is a perfect overview.
Sunday, September 11, 2011
Hair Tool Review: The Sprush
Officially, a Sprush is a cross between a spatula and a tint brush. I have been using sprushes for years to perform relaxer touch-ups. They can be used for haircolor application as well, but I prefer a regular tint brush for color services.
Recently, I added the new "Optimum" sprush to my collection. It is the center sprush in the picture. Do you notice that the surface of this special sprush is textured with ridges? The rest of the sprushes in the picture all have smooth spatula surfaces. I like the new textured sprush because I can pick up heavier amounts of relaxer and apply to new growth without the whole glob falling into one place. The textured sprush seems to hold the relaxer in place on the sprush until I am ready for it. This feature saves a few application strokes.
The company that makes this tool is called Sprush.
Thursday, September 8, 2011
Self Esteem: "Your Africa is Showing!"
![](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jfd4nJWBh2w/Tmhu2mI-pdI/AAAAAAAAA_c/O3O0m43Pw8Y/s320/urafricaisshowing.jpg)
![](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U8-ZEmP25AI/Tmh3SegdIgI/AAAAAAAAA_k/_ijdFidSmyo/s320/toyourhealthpicwithbookonhead.jpg)
(Photo Credits: www.thenaturalgirlsguidetobeauty.blogspot.com and www.toyourhealth.com) As you all know, I went back into my straight look in attempt to deal with some corporate America issues. It is better to look "corporate" from head to toe if you want to get anywhere in corporate America.
I have had so many Black women to say "your hair grew back so quickly." My response has been two part. One) The Viviscal tablets. I really believe in them. (see my separate article) Two) Natural Black hair shrinks. So although, it looks short when kinky; it expands 50 to 75% the length when straightened.
Do you know how awkward it feels to educate another Black woman about our natural hair? Some of our Black "divas" are so disconnected from their own natural hair texture. My thoughts are "If we can not accept ourselves in our raw form, then why would we expect another race to accept us?"
Black "Divas" who see other Black women with "Their Africa Showing" say "why doesn't she at least relax her hair so it can lay down." When I heard a "sistah" say this recently, I proudly and politely responded "I find some Black women are just not used to seeing their own natural hair." Then I quickly changed the topic.
I am sorry. I really, really want to scream. As you know, I recently wrote an article on "nappy love" that mentioned Black woman describing other Black women looking like a "wooly mammoth." I am thoroughly ashamed of some of my Black sisters being so ignorant about natural Black hair.
Most of the time our natural Black hair looks "ugly" when we are trying to wear it straight and the weather takes control of it. At this point, different textures start to show because parts of the hairstyle is reverting back to the natural texture. Also, when we get a lot of new growth prior to a relaxer touch-up, it looks a little awkward to have two different textures.
No, every Black woman does not need to go natural and wear an afro, but my God, please respect other Black women when "their Africa is Showing!"
To break the ice, the next time you see a Sistah that is not following the corporate straight look, say "Hey Sister! (with a warm smile) Your Africa is showing." It may become a start of a good friendship.
It takes a lot of self esteem to wear "your Africa" despite the stares and the body languages that one encounters when you are viewed as different. I challenge Black women to create a warmer acceptance of "nappy hair." Why? Our little Black girls need to know that they are beautiful just as they are! Their self esteem should not be based on what is on top of their head, but what is inside their head.
I can not emphasize enough that achieving education goals will set a stronger foundation for self-esteem than any relaxer ever will . . .
Tuesday, September 6, 2011
A Quick Look at a Soft Press
I bought this coarse, textured hair mannequin at the Bronner Brother hair show. I attempted a "soft press" without shampooing it in the second picture.
Then, I actually got a chance to shampoo and condition my new kinky hair mannequin. I used heavy products such as creme press and curl wax to straighten and curl as picured in the third picture. This styling should hold longer with use of heavier products on coarse hairtypes.
Product Corner: Optimum Smart Lye Relaxer
Interesting enough, the new Keratin Whipped Creme relaxer comes in a "cool pouch" instead of a plastic tub. In my opinion, "Smart Lye" means be smart about choosing your relaxer.
Monday, September 5, 2011
Hair Growth Review: Five Months Timeframe
This documentation is important to me because some stylists and people in general feel that "nappy hair" can only grow to a certain length and break. This is not true. "Nappy hair" is fragile in its natural state and if it is chemically overprocessed or heat damaged. If you keep "nappy hair" texturized enough to soften and not revert without over straightening it - length and strength can be maintained. So far I have learned that the frequency of relaxing is not a problem. It is the type of relaxer used. It is also how much straighening that you are trying to achieve in one setting. Stay positive, stay focussed, stay tuned!
Sunday, September 4, 2011
What does cheap weave look like?
This hair was $22 for the pack. It was supposed to be 12" length. However, it is only solid for the first 3 inches past the weft. So really this hair is not but about 4" long with some stringy ends. A waste of money. It was downhill after day two. Ten years ago, $22 could get you some nice, full, middle grade commercial hair. Now, year 2011, if you do not pay at least $35 per package, then you should not expect much performance out of the hair.
Also, I was watching Dateline the other night. A black hair weave was found near a skull that was buried in the desert. I had to laugh. They identified the lady as being Black by the texture of the hair weave amongst other things. Hair weave lasts forever. LOL! On a more serious note, I hope that the victim rests in peace.
Product Review: True Indulgence Relaxer System
I am going to have to get my layers tuned up in the back, but overall, I absolutely loved this relaxer. I think that my search is over. I am extremely sensitive scalp with resistant hair. Paul Mitchell relaxers were not straightening my hair enough. Design Essentials Time Release relaxer seems to soften, but not straighten. Weird. The Chi Deep Brilliance relaxer was very drying to the hair, did not straighten enough, and corrosive to the skin and scalp. So the True Indulgence relaxer is my new love. Pictured are the before pictures of my hair after taking out the quickweave and before relaxing it with the True Indulgence relaxer. I did not take picture of my hair while it was wet after the relaxer. I was so excited about the look and the feel of it that I could not wait to finish it out. I will say that I still have some wave to my hair when it is wet. It is still not bone straight. A few of the tips of my hair maybe a little more straight, but overall, It was not overly agressive.
Now, brace yourself. I must mention that Dudley does make this relaxer system. Okay, slow your horses. Yes, you heard me. This relaxer is a Dudley product, and yes, I know some people can not stand Dudley, and they say that any stylist that uses Dudley is not a good stylist. I heard it all before. That is why I stopped using a lot of Dudley products because there were a lot of people that did not trust Dudley. However, this relaxer is one of their newer lines. It has been out for about ten years. I used it while in Dudley Beauty School. I used it after I graduated. I always got beautiful results. So I am full circle back to Dudley. I am not adding any of their maintenance products or styling products at this time, but yes, I would have to hurt someone if they stop making this True Indulgence relaxer. It literally made me one of the happiest women on Earth. I have quite a few clients waiting for this perfect match. It is a sodium hydroxide relaxer and very healthy as you can see! I will take pictures the next time that I shampoo my hair to show you my hair texture while wet with this True Indulgence relaxer in. I will try to write a separate article to compare the two wet pictures of a before and after. Regardless, I am so excited my relaxer search is over!
Honey: The Latest Loc tightening solution
I have stopped quite a few "sistahs" lately who were sporting locs. Their locks were freshly tightened and beautiful. I asked what they were using to tighten their locks, and the answer that I have been repeatedly receiving is one word "honey." For some, just honey and nothing else. Others use honey and a few other favorite natural ingredients. Majority of the sistahs are also tightening their own locs at home. Sisterlocks, of course, require a tool and a certified technician.
Based on your budget, you can buy raw, imported honey or the cheapest honey on the regular grocery store aisle. I was told that using honey does not attract bees. It's a good question - you do not want to have to keep running shoes on hand. Smile. A little humor. Anyway, try it out!
Brainwashed on Bone Straight Hair?
It's year 2011, and Black women have gotten more accustomed to "bone straight" hair even if it means sacrificing the health of the hair for the style. For the "healthy hair" hairstylists, the "bone straight" mentality has become a challenge because people are so used to the straightness achieved from the ionic flat irons. So Black women are either going completely curly or they want completely bone straight hair. What happened to the midway point? Healthy hairstylists are finding that clients do not want this midway point. Some hair stylists have decided to either make sure the hair gets relaxed really straight or possibly use the flat iron for final finishing.
The finished look from the round brush blow dry service used to be enough decades ago, but now, even the dominican hairstylists are finding people want straighter hair in these modern times.
Literally, I have seen Black women with "heat damaged hair" still go pay for a round brush and flat iron service just because they like the finished look. I cringe when I see this happening, but I have to respect others' businesses. Sometimes this damage is happening on a platform at a hair show. In my mind, I am watching heat damage compound, and I can not say a word. Eventually, after the hair becomes completely fried from the "inside out," it will break uncontrollably. Flat irons heat hair from the inside out versus curling irons heat outside in. Indirect heat versus direct heat. No matter which heat that you choose, you can NOT use heat everyday. Direct heat is safer, but too much heat from any type of iron too often will weaken the hair.
Let's talk about image for a second. The "Sleek" look does carry a certain amount of prestige. People are driven by social acceptance and fame. The more texture that is seen in your hair usually means that you are viewed as "unpolished" in some social circles.
The best advice that I can give is to stay focus on maintaining a healthy body image and completing your educational goals. Most people can control their body image/weight. A fit body image and accessories can play off most any hairdo. Have you seen the editorial covers of some of these major magazines? "Crazy, avant-garde" hair mixed with designer clothes and designer shoes seems to be acceptable!
Do you need direction on weight loss? Jennifer Hudson is on the cover of Self magazine. I believe it is the August edition. She looks great, and her food menu and exercises are very reasonable. You do not have to feel like you need a personal chef and a personal trainer. Everything that she is doing is practical and can be done on your own. I really loved this article.
Friday, September 2, 2011
Candid Talk: Beauty School is for Everyone?
![](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jyJmowcrQCY/TmEqlWYuCQI/AAAAAAAAA80/pmMswFDA1DQ/s320/dudleybeautycollege.png)
Ninety percent of all beauty schools are in existence to teach you basic haircare, basic styling, basic ways not to spread disease, and how to pass State Board exams. Once you pass the state Board exam, then you become qualified to practice without supervision. This does not mean that you know advanced haircutting techniques. This does not mean that you know everything about every product on the market. This new hair license means that you can start learning "what you want to learn about hair, when you want to learn it."
In beauty school, you are limited to using school approved hair products. Also, the clientele that comes into the beauty school for you to practice on may or may not be diversed. So your ability to service all hair types may not be achieved in beauty school.
Are there advantages to picking one beauty school over another? Yes, if you want to work in an Aveda concept salon, then attending an Aveda school will acquaint you early with the Aveda culture. If you want to master all hair types including extremely overcurly hair, then it will be better to attend a beauty school such as Dudley who will have more overcurly clients to learn from.
Typically, if you master overcurly hair, then all other hair types will be easy to service.
When touring the beauty schools, ask instructors about their demographics of people receiving hair services by the students. Hopefully, they will be honest with you. There are always times when a school may make a special initiative to advertise for more diversified clientele to give their students more exposure. However, most beauty schools have some "regular" clientele. Ask about their "regular" beauty school clientele to give you a better idea what your core hair services will be. For example: will you be performing more haircuts and haircolor or more straighening services?
Is beauty school for everyone? Yes, everyone should consider beauty school because everyone tries to be a stylist for their own hair. People are coloring their own hair at home. People are relaxing their own hair at home. People are straightening their own hair at home. You name it . . . people are doing a lot of hair at home. Why not learn the rules about hair? Once you are licensed to do hair, you still are only halfway to becoming an independent hairstylist. Similar to becoming licensed to teach school and becoming licensed to sell real estate, your hair license arms you to practice hair and really begin learning and getting more vast exposure. Or you can just be the family hairstylist without trying for a career in hair. Everyone with a hair license does not have to work in the beauty industry. It is an option; not a requirement.
Can beauty school teach you how to style hair? No. In the hair industry, there are mechanics and artists. Mechanics perform as told. Artists naturally can create an image. Styling can not be taught; you have to be born with the ability. Similar to playing music by notes versus playing music by ear. Playing music by ear is a talent that you are born with. However, anyone can be taught the basics. In music, you learn notes. In hair, you learn basic hairstyling techniques such as rolling up hair, straightening hair, but only a real artist can complete the final styling where it is absolutely becoming to the client.
Does the beauty industry have a lot of hairstyling jobs? There are a lot of hairstyling jobs, but they are not well paid positions. Maybe averaging around $8 per hour. . . Usually, newly licensed hairstylists are more a liability versus an asset. So if you are wanting a career change, a job in the hair industry right now will NOT be an upward move. Just like any other "start-up" business, you have to invest more into it at the beginning in order to reap the benefits later . . . possibly years later.
I am a graduate of Dudley Beauty School System. I also have a Bachelors degree along with corporate experience. A well-balanced individual learns to communicate and adapt to different social settings. I strongly recommend both a four-year degree along with your hair licensing if you are a woman. Men seems to excel in the beauty industry with minimal education. I think it is just the law of attraction that benefits the men more than the women. Happy "beauty school" searching and please mention this article if you enroll at any beauty school!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)