Eyebrow tinting is great for those who are starting to get gray hairs within their eyebrows. It is also great for darkening eyebrows. Caution: There may be some hydrogen peroxide in the ingredients. Those who are PPD allergic or who are sensitive to haircolor- should use caution.
The Godefroy brand pictured says it lasts six weeks. The color options are jet black, light brown, medium brown, and dark brown. This eyebrow color should NOT be used for your eyelashes. I assume it can cause blindness especially since the word "permanent" is listed on the box.
Maintaining phenomenal hair through education on techniques, tools, and products!
Sunday, July 31, 2011
Product Line Review: Ouidad
The Ouidad product line is for curly hair. I bought this bottle of Botanical Boost spray from Sephora. My Mary Kay representative gave me samples of Clear and Gentle Essential Daily Shampoo, Curl Quencher conditioner, Moisture Lock, Volumizing Foam, and Climate Control Gel. All were from the Ouidad line. Her stylist texturizes her curls as well, and she uses this regimen.
Day one hair - I achieved great volume on the first day because I am used to having flat hair after a fresh start. Also, I like that I did not get any crystallization. My other curly gels usually leave a little film to my hair, but nothing that I can not deal with. I do have to admit that my hair was a little flat, but I decided to make it stand up. It was easier to make it stand up without the crystallization effect that I sometimes work around when using my other regimen. Sometimes the "crystallization-prone" gels have a little "stickiness" to them which prevent Day one volume. Please ignore my huge forehead. I will be playing with styling more on Day 2.
Based on the back of my head, my curl definition is about the same as the other products. It is not too heavy nor too oily. I will have to see how day 2 through day 5 goes. I am happy that I got to try it without buying the whole line. It is another expensive curl line, but the six piece combination that I used, I really liked. Reminder: My type 4c hair is texturized/texlaxed.
UPDATE: By the end of Day one my "Ouidad" hair had started to shrink too tightly. I also felt that it was a little dry to the touch. My usual maintenance of Mixed Chicks Leave-in did not want to co-exist as an attempt to moisturize. It just got real sticky on my hair. Needless to say, Day 2 was a fresh wash with my KeraCare Cleansing Cream, Kinky-Curly Knot Today leave-in, and KeraCare Defining Custard.
Day one hair - I achieved great volume on the first day because I am used to having flat hair after a fresh start. Also, I like that I did not get any crystallization. My other curly gels usually leave a little film to my hair, but nothing that I can not deal with. I do have to admit that my hair was a little flat, but I decided to make it stand up. It was easier to make it stand up without the crystallization effect that I sometimes work around when using my other regimen. Sometimes the "crystallization-prone" gels have a little "stickiness" to them which prevent Day one volume. Please ignore my huge forehead. I will be playing with styling more on Day 2.
Based on the back of my head, my curl definition is about the same as the other products. It is not too heavy nor too oily. I will have to see how day 2 through day 5 goes. I am happy that I got to try it without buying the whole line. It is another expensive curl line, but the six piece combination that I used, I really liked. Reminder: My type 4c hair is texturized/texlaxed.
UPDATE: By the end of Day one my "Ouidad" hair had started to shrink too tightly. I also felt that it was a little dry to the touch. My usual maintenance of Mixed Chicks Leave-in did not want to co-exist as an attempt to moisturize. It just got real sticky on my hair. Needless to say, Day 2 was a fresh wash with my KeraCare Cleansing Cream, Kinky-Curly Knot Today leave-in, and KeraCare Defining Custard.
Thursday, July 28, 2011
Review: Electric Curling Iron Barrels
Pictured is a Chi "spring closure" curling iron. It is adjustable temperature. The spring closure can be hard to manipulate as you curl the hair.
Pictured is a Wigo "marcel closure" curling iron. It also has adjustable temperature settings. The marcel handling/turning takes a little practice but once you have it, then curling is quick and easy!
Pictured is a Wigo "marcel closure" curling iron. It also has adjustable temperature settings. The marcel handling/turning takes a little practice but once you have it, then curling is quick and easy!
Product Review: Chi Deep Brilliance Relaxer
The Chi Relaxer definitely maintains the integrity of the hair. Those that are sensitive scalp must base really well, but it is tolerable. There are expiration dates on the container which is a plus. The product consistency is a little more "lotion like" versus cream so careful with application. Overall, I like the relaxer system based on the first try.
Pictured is the "before" picture of client who was eight weeks from last texturizing touch-up.
Pictured is the "after" picture of Chi relaxer touchup. Client has Type 4c hair and the Normal strength Chi relaxer was used to texturize or texlax hair. Finishing products included Kinky-Curly Knot Today Leave-in followed by KeraCare Defining Custard. Hair by Benita Blocker.
August 16,2011 Update: I have used the Chi Deep Brilliance Relaxer about four times now. The hair integrity is good even with the Super strength. However, the Super Strength Chi Deep Brilliance relaxer can be very drying to the hair. I found that the Chi Reconstruct conditioner that is recommended with the relaxer service does not provide enough moisture to the hair. I found the Mizani Moistufuse conditioner which is recommended for the Mizani traditional relaxer system works significantly better. Under normal conditions and normal strength relaxation, the Chi Reconstruct was sufficient. However, I still recommend layering the Mizani Moistufuse in with the Chi Reconstruct under normal relaxation. I also recommend substituting the Mizani Moistufuse in lieu of the Chi Reconstruct. The hair seems to drink the Moistufuse immediately after Super relaxation and shampooing. Please note: Mizani has a "Butter Blend line" and a "Moisturfusion" line. I am NOT referring to these Mizani categories at this time.
A note to the sensitive scalp consumers: The Chi Deep Brilliance relaxer is tolerable with a well-based scalp. "Well-based" scalp means that base is applied with thin partings but keep the base on the scalp not the hair. Cross section your base if you have to but do NOT squeeze too much out at a time. The "bad news" is that the combination of resistant hair and a sensitive scalp may not process long enough to get straight before burning. This relaxer will burn. You feel the burns more from the water hitting the scalp during the rinse than the dry application. So if the client feels burning, but they say it is tolerable, then I recommend taking them to the shampoo bowl and start rinsing anyway.
For some reason the burning does seem tolerable during relaxer application, but the water rinse will tell the real story as to how badly the burn is. The Paul Mitchell relaxer system causes more "false" sensations during the relaxer application, but not too much burning at the bowl. However, my Chi relaxer experience was the completely opposite. I felt less pain at relaxer application; more "pain" at the bowl. Overall, I recommend caution with the Super Strength Chi Relaxer. The tensile strength is fine, but watch for dryness. Prepare to add a lot of "moisture" during the conditioning phase.
Pictured is the "before" picture of client who was eight weeks from last texturizing touch-up.
Pictured is the "after" picture of Chi relaxer touchup. Client has Type 4c hair and the Normal strength Chi relaxer was used to texturize or texlax hair. Finishing products included Kinky-Curly Knot Today Leave-in followed by KeraCare Defining Custard. Hair by Benita Blocker.
August 16,2011 Update: I have used the Chi Deep Brilliance Relaxer about four times now. The hair integrity is good even with the Super strength. However, the Super Strength Chi Deep Brilliance relaxer can be very drying to the hair. I found that the Chi Reconstruct conditioner that is recommended with the relaxer service does not provide enough moisture to the hair. I found the Mizani Moistufuse conditioner which is recommended for the Mizani traditional relaxer system works significantly better. Under normal conditions and normal strength relaxation, the Chi Reconstruct was sufficient. However, I still recommend layering the Mizani Moistufuse in with the Chi Reconstruct under normal relaxation. I also recommend substituting the Mizani Moistufuse in lieu of the Chi Reconstruct. The hair seems to drink the Moistufuse immediately after Super relaxation and shampooing. Please note: Mizani has a "Butter Blend line" and a "Moisturfusion" line. I am NOT referring to these Mizani categories at this time.
A note to the sensitive scalp consumers: The Chi Deep Brilliance relaxer is tolerable with a well-based scalp. "Well-based" scalp means that base is applied with thin partings but keep the base on the scalp not the hair. Cross section your base if you have to but do NOT squeeze too much out at a time. The "bad news" is that the combination of resistant hair and a sensitive scalp may not process long enough to get straight before burning. This relaxer will burn. You feel the burns more from the water hitting the scalp during the rinse than the dry application. So if the client feels burning, but they say it is tolerable, then I recommend taking them to the shampoo bowl and start rinsing anyway.
For some reason the burning does seem tolerable during relaxer application, but the water rinse will tell the real story as to how badly the burn is. The Paul Mitchell relaxer system causes more "false" sensations during the relaxer application, but not too much burning at the bowl. However, my Chi relaxer experience was the completely opposite. I felt less pain at relaxer application; more "pain" at the bowl. Overall, I recommend caution with the Super Strength Chi Relaxer. The tensile strength is fine, but watch for dryness. Prepare to add a lot of "moisture" during the conditioning phase.
Sunday, July 24, 2011
Technique Review: How to Wet Wrap
Products used: KeraCare Setting Lotion, KeraCare Foam Wrap regular hold, NuExpressions Styling Gel; Medium Length hair dryer time: 1.5 to 2 hours; If you do not plan to curl your hair for your final finish, then you can skip the styling gel.
Do anchor and curve the center of the head as you comb around. You want to keep the center flat. You may want to comb all hair down into a mushroom first, then begin to comb/wrap around leaving the top of your mushroom flat.
Side view of wet wrap.
Side view of wet wrap.
Front view of wet wrap.
These paper "megastrips" can be purchased from Sally's Beauty Supply.
Wet wrap is now completely dry. The paper wrap strips can be removed after the first 30 to 40 minutes. Usually, they will loosen on their own and fall away if you forget about them.
Breaking the mold to make sure it dries completely. You can use a wax, pomade, or a silicone serum to soften and loosen up the hair depending on if you used the styling gel or not.
Back view curled. I used Design Essentials Styling spray to curl with. I was going for a pretty firm hold without being hard.
Side view curled. Hair by Benita Blocker
Do anchor and curve the center of the head as you comb around. You want to keep the center flat. You may want to comb all hair down into a mushroom first, then begin to comb/wrap around leaving the top of your mushroom flat.
Side view of wet wrap.
Side view of wet wrap.
Front view of wet wrap.
These paper "megastrips" can be purchased from Sally's Beauty Supply.
Wet wrap is now completely dry. The paper wrap strips can be removed after the first 30 to 40 minutes. Usually, they will loosen on their own and fall away if you forget about them.
Breaking the mold to make sure it dries completely. You can use a wax, pomade, or a silicone serum to soften and loosen up the hair depending on if you used the styling gel or not.
Back view curled. I used Design Essentials Styling spray to curl with. I was going for a pretty firm hold without being hard.
Side view curled. Hair by Benita Blocker
Product Review: Kinky-Curly Knot Today and more
One of my clients that did the big chop told me that the Kinky-Curly line builds on top of itself so you need to use the whole line. I had played with the Curling Custard over a year ago. I could not get the hang of it. However, now that I started using the KeraCare Defining Custard, I realized they are both about the same product consistency. I just purchased the "Knot Today" leave-in conditioner to use with my existing Curling Custard.
Voila! Day one hair with Kinky-Curly leave-in conditioner and Curling Custard. Most Target stores have the leave-in conditioner and the curling custard. The SuperTarget stores with larger ethnic displays carry the whole Kinky-Curly line. I still used my KeraCare cleansing cream first! I will have to buy the Kinky-Curly shampoo soon. On a separate note, the leave-in conditioner is more organic than the Mixed Chicks leave-in conditioner. Because the Mixed Chicks Leave-in conditioner does have some silicone in it . . . it is probably a better fit for Type 3 hair as a final step. For those who need one extra final step . . . the Knot Today Leave-in conditioner seems healthier for the Kinkier hair that need a gel finish. I am looking forward to Day 5 hair . . . I will update this post then!
Voila! Day one hair with Kinky-Curly leave-in conditioner and Curling Custard. Most Target stores have the leave-in conditioner and the curling custard. The SuperTarget stores with larger ethnic displays carry the whole Kinky-Curly line. I still used my KeraCare cleansing cream first! I will have to buy the Kinky-Curly shampoo soon. On a separate note, the leave-in conditioner is more organic than the Mixed Chicks leave-in conditioner. Because the Mixed Chicks Leave-in conditioner does have some silicone in it . . . it is probably a better fit for Type 3 hair as a final step. For those who need one extra final step . . . the Knot Today Leave-in conditioner seems healthier for the Kinkier hair that need a gel finish. I am looking forward to Day 5 hair . . . I will update this post then!
A Closer Look at Texturized, Gray Type 4c hair
Gray hair is hair that grows in without natural pigment or melanin in it. Because it is missing pigment, the gray hair is lighter in weight and less manageable. It can be permed (curly permed/soft curled) or relaxed, texlaxed/texturized. Pictured is coarse, gray hair that started off as natural Type 4c hair from a woman with black hair and some gray hair. (Less than 25% gray) It is now texturized or texlaxed. So it went from extremely tightly coiled "z" curls to a "z" ripple!
Type 4c curl patterns do not have to be coarse. Type 4c curl patterns can be fine or medium in texture/strand diameter.
Gray hair does not have to be coarse to still be difficult to manage and hard to color. In order to keep gray hair shiny and "non-yellow," voilet base shampoos or conditioners have to be used as needed. Typically, chemicals and heat can cause gray/white hair to yellow. According to the color wheel, if you add some blue and red (i.e. violet), then it neutralizes the yellow color.
Type 4c curl patterns do not have to be coarse. Type 4c curl patterns can be fine or medium in texture/strand diameter.
Gray hair does not have to be coarse to still be difficult to manage and hard to color. In order to keep gray hair shiny and "non-yellow," voilet base shampoos or conditioners have to be used as needed. Typically, chemicals and heat can cause gray/white hair to yellow. According to the color wheel, if you add some blue and red (i.e. violet), then it neutralizes the yellow color.
Friday, July 22, 2011
Diffusers: Set your Style!
Attached to this handheld blowdryer is another hair tool called a diffuser. Think of it as a platform dryer in the palm of your hands.
Pictured is a diffuser with fingers. It redistributes the heat from the blowdryer without the force of air.
Pictured is a universal fit diffuser. It should fit onto 90% of the blow dryer models available.
The fingers on the diffuser can allow you to lightly rake hair or curls if you need to.
Pictured is a diffuser without fingers. It works the same way as the diffuser with fingers. This one is better for updos that you want to freeze in place without a single hair being moved.
Pictured is a diffuser with fingers. It redistributes the heat from the blowdryer without the force of air.
Pictured is a universal fit diffuser. It should fit onto 90% of the blow dryer models available.
The fingers on the diffuser can allow you to lightly rake hair or curls if you need to.
Pictured is a diffuser without fingers. It works the same way as the diffuser with fingers. This one is better for updos that you want to freeze in place without a single hair being moved.
Tuesday, July 19, 2011
Choosing Healthy Hair over European Style
This picture was taken July 2011. This is the European, exotic style that the average man on a day to day basis have grown accustomed.
This picture was also taken July 2011. (It is an article update.) So I finally reached my six months without using a flat iron and was comfortable cutting the "stringy, heat damaged" ends off, and I have had quite a few men ask me so "what are you doing with your hair?" So my response is "riding out this heatwave." Their response is that you have a great smile; you can pull off the "motherland" look. It took me about a week to get a regimen down that works for me. Please see my article on "Day 2 is a charm" to learn more.
So of course, I have been struggling with conforming with what is more easily acceptable or choosing a low maintenance look that yells "culture."
By wearing my hair in a more natural looking state, I don't have any extra weight from hair extensions stressing out my scalp. I don't have to worry about it frizzing from humidity. I don't have to worry about sweating out my curls. I don't have to worry about a rainy day. I don't have to worry about the wind blowing it out of place. It can just grow, grow, grow.
Or I can choose to style it in the more socially acceptable way . . .
If I had a million dollar photo shoot, then I do prefer the European look. If had a million dollar presentation to give, then I do prefer the European look.
However, for day to day operations, I am going with a healthy low key routine until I grow it long again. I will continue to texturize as needed and then eventually fully relax it.
So I am choosing health over style for now. In the long run, healthy hair always has style. Patience is a virtue. Within another year, I will have an extra six inches to play with. I am looking forward to the future!
This picture was also taken July 2011. (It is an article update.) So I finally reached my six months without using a flat iron and was comfortable cutting the "stringy, heat damaged" ends off, and I have had quite a few men ask me so "what are you doing with your hair?" So my response is "riding out this heatwave." Their response is that you have a great smile; you can pull off the "motherland" look. It took me about a week to get a regimen down that works for me. Please see my article on "Day 2 is a charm" to learn more.
So of course, I have been struggling with conforming with what is more easily acceptable or choosing a low maintenance look that yells "culture."
By wearing my hair in a more natural looking state, I don't have any extra weight from hair extensions stressing out my scalp. I don't have to worry about it frizzing from humidity. I don't have to worry about sweating out my curls. I don't have to worry about a rainy day. I don't have to worry about the wind blowing it out of place. It can just grow, grow, grow.
Or I can choose to style it in the more socially acceptable way . . .
If I had a million dollar photo shoot, then I do prefer the European look. If had a million dollar presentation to give, then I do prefer the European look.
However, for day to day operations, I am going with a healthy low key routine until I grow it long again. I will continue to texturize as needed and then eventually fully relax it.
So I am choosing health over style for now. In the long run, healthy hair always has style. Patience is a virtue. Within another year, I will have an extra six inches to play with. I am looking forward to the future!
The Natural Look: Day 2 is a Charm
This is my Day 2 look! I slept on a satin pillow cover. I woke up and used Mixed Chicks Leave-in Conditioner to calm the sides and back down. The top remains untouched. I can get a week out of this look. My volume remains in place on top just by finger styling daily.
This my Day 1 look. My hair is a little flat for me. It is freshly hydrated. It has not fully swollen nor fully dried out. The drying effect gives me a "little afro" control. Some volume is always good for styling purposes. The volume comes naturally by the second day without any styling aids. Also, please remember that my hair is texturized; this is a regimen that is working for me.
It's humorous because those with oily scalps love first day hair but by Day 2 the hair starts going flat from the natural oils from the scalp. Luckily, product lines such as Rene Furterer have dry shampoos that do wonders for creating volume in Day 2 old hair with oily scalps.
UPDATE: This is Day 5 (five) hair! Exceptional! Maintenance: I shower without a shower cap so only nape and sides get a little damp . . . then follow with Mixed Chicks Leave-in conditioner. "Finger fluff" and go! The KeraCare Defining Custard softens up daily. Only the first two days is my hair a little firm.
This my Day 1 look. My hair is a little flat for me. It is freshly hydrated. It has not fully swollen nor fully dried out. The drying effect gives me a "little afro" control. Some volume is always good for styling purposes. The volume comes naturally by the second day without any styling aids. Also, please remember that my hair is texturized; this is a regimen that is working for me.
It's humorous because those with oily scalps love first day hair but by Day 2 the hair starts going flat from the natural oils from the scalp. Luckily, product lines such as Rene Furterer have dry shampoos that do wonders for creating volume in Day 2 old hair with oily scalps.
UPDATE: This is Day 5 (five) hair! Exceptional! Maintenance: I shower without a shower cap so only nape and sides get a little damp . . . then follow with Mixed Chicks Leave-in conditioner. "Finger fluff" and go! The KeraCare Defining Custard softens up daily. Only the first two days is my hair a little firm.
Monday, July 18, 2011
Product Review: Design Essentials Curl Cleanser and more
I apologize that my lighting was not better for this product picture, but nonetheless, the curl cleanser was great at cleansing without dehydrating my curls. I still prefer the KeraCare Cleansing Cream, but the Design Essentials Curl Cleanser will be my "go to" for deep cleansing after a week long stretch of leave-in conditioners. Overall, I like it!
As for the curl stretching cream, it is a little heavy. Extremely porous hair is going to soak it up like a sponge. I discovered this with a client who had permanently colored her Type 4b/c hair. We blowdried the hair according to the Design Essentials natural styling guide, then we used the Design Essentials Curl Stretching Cream to make individual twists. Her hair absorbed soooo much product that it was very hard to get it dry. Two hours under the dryer would probably be generous. The oil that her hair soaked up was enough for a solid week without worrying about drying out.
I have noticed quite a few products seem to soak into Type 4 hair and create a wet sponge effect if the Type 4 hair is damaged or extremely porous.
Honestly, when Type 4 hair becomes that damaged, plan to gradually cut it off. I will be very difficult to manage and easy to frizz. Repeated excessive thermal/heat can cause damage, and sometimes permanent color can cause this damage as well.
So be careful . . . when hair is "overcooked" - you eventually have to start over.
As for the curl stretching cream, it is a little heavy. Extremely porous hair is going to soak it up like a sponge. I discovered this with a client who had permanently colored her Type 4b/c hair. We blowdried the hair according to the Design Essentials natural styling guide, then we used the Design Essentials Curl Stretching Cream to make individual twists. Her hair absorbed soooo much product that it was very hard to get it dry. Two hours under the dryer would probably be generous. The oil that her hair soaked up was enough for a solid week without worrying about drying out.
I have noticed quite a few products seem to soak into Type 4 hair and create a wet sponge effect if the Type 4 hair is damaged or extremely porous.
Honestly, when Type 4 hair becomes that damaged, plan to gradually cut it off. I will be very difficult to manage and easy to frizz. Repeated excessive thermal/heat can cause damage, and sometimes permanent color can cause this damage as well.
So be careful . . . when hair is "overcooked" - you eventually have to start over.
Sunday, July 17, 2011
Product Review: Salon Exclusive relaxer brand
It has been at least a year since I have used a "Salon Exclusive" brand relaxer. This relaxer brand seems to leave the hair silky, straight; however, I and a few other stylists felt that the straightness maybe leaving the hair too vulnerable making it easy to break.
I mentioned my concerns to the distributor whom I was buying the product from and his response was "if you like it, then buy it; if you do not like it, then don't buy it." It was at that point that I discontinued use. I finally realized that manufacturers and distributors are there to meet sales quota. Until their sales drop, some have no intention of improving the product.
This company is very aggressive in adding new products to their line to profit from the latest trends such as the Argan oil demand. I believe this brand is also sold as the "Action South" relaxer line in other parts of the region.
The brand name "Salon Exclusive" is hard to research because many different relaxer lines consider themselves "salon exclusive" meaning salon professional use only. So to have a brand name of "Salon Exclusive" can be a little confusing even if making a phone inquiry to someone who is not aware of the actual brand existence.
I only recommend this relaxer system for those who want to maintain a short haircut or who promises to only roller set their hair. Blow-dry styling may be too much stress on really straight hair. It may be safer to use mild strength in this relaxer line and let it sit for a few extra minutes.
Those with sensitive scalps will be sensitive to the regular strength lye version. However, their no-lye version is very tolerable. As with all chemicals, choose with caution.
I mentioned my concerns to the distributor whom I was buying the product from and his response was "if you like it, then buy it; if you do not like it, then don't buy it." It was at that point that I discontinued use. I finally realized that manufacturers and distributors are there to meet sales quota. Until their sales drop, some have no intention of improving the product.
This company is very aggressive in adding new products to their line to profit from the latest trends such as the Argan oil demand. I believe this brand is also sold as the "Action South" relaxer line in other parts of the region.
The brand name "Salon Exclusive" is hard to research because many different relaxer lines consider themselves "salon exclusive" meaning salon professional use only. So to have a brand name of "Salon Exclusive" can be a little confusing even if making a phone inquiry to someone who is not aware of the actual brand existence.
I only recommend this relaxer system for those who want to maintain a short haircut or who promises to only roller set their hair. Blow-dry styling may be too much stress on really straight hair. It may be safer to use mild strength in this relaxer line and let it sit for a few extra minutes.
Those with sensitive scalps will be sensitive to the regular strength lye version. However, their no-lye version is very tolerable. As with all chemicals, choose with caution.
Saturday, July 16, 2011
Tracking: Keeping Hair Styling Records
First of all, these are my real fingernails! The Viviscal pills have multiple benefits! LOL! Please see my separate article on Viviscal.
Pictured is the start of my hair log from October 19, 1998 to present day. I literally know about 13 years of history on my hair. I started tracking in October 1998 after having so many horrible hair salon experiences. I have been to Manhattan New York to Brooklyn, NY to White Plains, NY to North Carolina to South Carolina and still could not find a good fit for a hairdresser. Does this story sound familiar?
So keep track of stylist name, date of service, actual services provided, and any chemicals used. The only purpose it will serve is a sanity check and some tracking of changes you find.
Please understand that I do not recommend salon hopping. You lose liability of who did what. All hairstylists have the same licensing respective to the state that the license was issued. Hairstylists are like doctors. Their practice is their practice. Doctors sometimes have different approaches to helping to heal. Within three months or about six visits, your hair should be more solid even if you are trimming bad ends off regularly.
Professional hairstylists learn to respect another hairstylist's practice because the variables surrounding a hair service are only witnessed during the time of service. Over the years, I have learned to turn down clients and send them back to their stylist because expecting perfection in one visit sometimes is a tall order especially when it comes to chemicals.
If a hairstylist is more concerned with the health of the hair, they may require a treatment service before performing a multi-dimensional color service. Yes, it will cost you two visits to get the color service and then you still may need a third service to lift your haircolor to an additional dimension. So if you have dark hair and want to go blonde, one visit usually is not the healthiest way of doing it.
When it comes to relaxers, it may take a few tries to find a good fit unless you are relocating from another city and want to continue with your same regimen and same product brands that were working for you from whence you came.
Also, I have found that over the last few years, I look for hairstylists with my same hair type (Type 4). To my surprise, I have found that most hairdressers have type 3 hair so their hair is lower maintenance than mine. I usually rule out male hairdressers because they usually keep a low maintenance haircut.
These are my preferences based on my experiences. Many have given up on hairdressers . . . I am a hairstylist, and I have sometimes felt the same sentiment. However, I am determined to educate myself and share my findings so that others do not have to repeat the same mistakes. I am committed to the advancement of the hair industry globally.
I have to remind myself regularly that "the only thing constant" is change. Stay flexible but grounded . . .
Pictured is the start of my hair log from October 19, 1998 to present day. I literally know about 13 years of history on my hair. I started tracking in October 1998 after having so many horrible hair salon experiences. I have been to Manhattan New York to Brooklyn, NY to White Plains, NY to North Carolina to South Carolina and still could not find a good fit for a hairdresser. Does this story sound familiar?
So keep track of stylist name, date of service, actual services provided, and any chemicals used. The only purpose it will serve is a sanity check and some tracking of changes you find.
Please understand that I do not recommend salon hopping. You lose liability of who did what. All hairstylists have the same licensing respective to the state that the license was issued. Hairstylists are like doctors. Their practice is their practice. Doctors sometimes have different approaches to helping to heal. Within three months or about six visits, your hair should be more solid even if you are trimming bad ends off regularly.
Professional hairstylists learn to respect another hairstylist's practice because the variables surrounding a hair service are only witnessed during the time of service. Over the years, I have learned to turn down clients and send them back to their stylist because expecting perfection in one visit sometimes is a tall order especially when it comes to chemicals.
If a hairstylist is more concerned with the health of the hair, they may require a treatment service before performing a multi-dimensional color service. Yes, it will cost you two visits to get the color service and then you still may need a third service to lift your haircolor to an additional dimension. So if you have dark hair and want to go blonde, one visit usually is not the healthiest way of doing it.
When it comes to relaxers, it may take a few tries to find a good fit unless you are relocating from another city and want to continue with your same regimen and same product brands that were working for you from whence you came.
Also, I have found that over the last few years, I look for hairstylists with my same hair type (Type 4). To my surprise, I have found that most hairdressers have type 3 hair so their hair is lower maintenance than mine. I usually rule out male hairdressers because they usually keep a low maintenance haircut.
These are my preferences based on my experiences. Many have given up on hairdressers . . . I am a hairstylist, and I have sometimes felt the same sentiment. However, I am determined to educate myself and share my findings so that others do not have to repeat the same mistakes. I am committed to the advancement of the hair industry globally.
I have to remind myself regularly that "the only thing constant" is change. Stay flexible but grounded . . .
Friday, July 15, 2011
Cutting out the Middle Man: The Hairstylist!
This picture is from www.longerstrongerhair.blogspot.com. Being a hairstylist and also, being a woman with hair that has to be styled . . . I see both sides of the story. The economy, gasoline prices, housing losses, retirement losses and so on forces creative thinking in order to cut expenses.
When it comes to hair, you have products to buy and a hairstylist to maintain. You already figured out that you can not eliminate the products. If you have gray hair, then you may find haircolor necessary. Shampoo and Conditioner are also necessities. Styling aids are helpful to maintain a corporate professional look.
So the product manufacturers will not lose too much money. The beauty supply stores should be prospering.
Now, let's visit the concept of natural hair . . . the products to maintain the hair cost more than the regular shampoo and conditioner for relaxed hair. For example: You may spend about $50 per month buying quality natural haircare products and maintaining your natural tresses at home.
On the other hand, you were paying at least $100 per month to go to the salon to have your relaxed hair set/serviced.
If you figure out a low maintenance regimen at home then it will beat the time spent in the salon. Also, with the cost of living being so high - most professional stylists who are on track to retire in the profession are going to expect to make at least $40 per maintenance service.
So in a nutshell, people are looking for ways to cut down on costs. If you are an exceptional haircare professional, then you are a "cutback." Your regular clients will come see you when they need you. If you are just an average hairdresser . . . you may find yourself "cut out" unless you keep your prices really low. "The dollar menu" will always draw customers.
What inspired me to write this article was the upfront cost of the natural haircare lines. Expect to spend $60 to $80 to get started in maintaining your natural hair and you have to use the products almost daily. Whereas with relaxed hair, most people did not like paying more than $8 to $10 for any product. I suppose the expense of the salon service was a factor in overall cost.
Good luck in finding your balance. With kinky hair being worn all over the world right now, it is the best time to try to get away from the European standard straight hair. Please also remember that certain corporate professional environments still prefer the European straight look. Be your own judge.
Thursday, July 14, 2011
July 2011 Hair Trend Update
So are you curious as to what is trending right now as far as hair is concerned?
1) Hairdrenalin Potion - it has become an international trend! This potion is supposed to grow your hair at a rate of one inch per month. That is double the normal growth rate. People can order the potion or make it themselves based on the online recipe. Some people are adding extra essential oils to mask the "original" smell of the potion. I am wary of anything that accelerate growth like that. There are youtube videos showing people achieving longer lengths at exceptional growth rates. You are welcome to research more about it, but I am going to wait another year to re-visit this potion. There has to be a side affect.
2)Genie Locs are yarn braids. The recommended brand of yarn is Redheart acrylic yarn. The yarn looks like ethnic hair. It gives you an overall "lock" look. The yarn runs about $5, and an online tutorial explains how to perform the "yarn twists" services at home. Enjoy researching!
3)Feather extensions - I have been getting one phone call a week at my salon from teenagers calling to see if we offer the Feather hair extensions. It seems to be a youthful trend. They are extensions that are pre-tipped for infusion and contain a feather. Maximum amount of feather extensions to sport seem to be about five at a time.
Well, that's all for now! Again, Enjoy!!!
1) Hairdrenalin Potion - it has become an international trend! This potion is supposed to grow your hair at a rate of one inch per month. That is double the normal growth rate. People can order the potion or make it themselves based on the online recipe. Some people are adding extra essential oils to mask the "original" smell of the potion. I am wary of anything that accelerate growth like that. There are youtube videos showing people achieving longer lengths at exceptional growth rates. You are welcome to research more about it, but I am going to wait another year to re-visit this potion. There has to be a side affect.
2)Genie Locs are yarn braids. The recommended brand of yarn is Redheart acrylic yarn. The yarn looks like ethnic hair. It gives you an overall "lock" look. The yarn runs about $5, and an online tutorial explains how to perform the "yarn twists" services at home. Enjoy researching!
3)Feather extensions - I have been getting one phone call a week at my salon from teenagers calling to see if we offer the Feather hair extensions. It seems to be a youthful trend. They are extensions that are pre-tipped for infusion and contain a feather. Maximum amount of feather extensions to sport seem to be about five at a time.
Well, that's all for now! Again, Enjoy!!!
Wash n' go Regimen for Type 3 curl pattern!
This combination seems to work great for Type 3 curl pattern, but not enough hold for a Type 4 curl pattern. I tried this combination twice, and twice I shrink into an "afro" within a few hours. Reminder: I have type 4 curl pattern. Actually, the difference between the regimens for Type 3 and Type 4 curl patterns is the last product used.
In detail, the regimen goes like this: 1) KeraCare Cleansing Cream: shampoo between 1 and 3 times as needed. 2) Towel blot. Skip the deep conditioning step if your hair is healthy and not too porous. Deep conditioning sometimes makes the hair strands too soft. 3) Use the Mixed Chicks Leave-in Conditioner to give you volume and shape. 4) Miss Jessie's Quick Curls helps give added control. The "Quick Curls" do not seem to hold Type 4 hair, but does great on Type 3!
Some folks may find the KeraCare cleansing cream and the Mixed Chicks Leave-in Conditioner to be sufficient as well. Two products instead of three . . .
These articles are designed to help you eliminate some trial and error! Have fun being natural!
In detail, the regimen goes like this: 1) KeraCare Cleansing Cream: shampoo between 1 and 3 times as needed. 2) Towel blot. Skip the deep conditioning step if your hair is healthy and not too porous. Deep conditioning sometimes makes the hair strands too soft. 3) Use the Mixed Chicks Leave-in Conditioner to give you volume and shape. 4) Miss Jessie's Quick Curls helps give added control. The "Quick Curls" do not seem to hold Type 4 hair, but does great on Type 3!
Some folks may find the KeraCare cleansing cream and the Mixed Chicks Leave-in Conditioner to be sufficient as well. Two products instead of three . . .
These articles are designed to help you eliminate some trial and error! Have fun being natural!
Making Texturized Type 4c hair Wash n' Go!
Hair by Benita Blocker. This is a picture of Type 4c curl pattern that is "texlaxed" or texturized. The "Wash n Go" terminology is typical for Type 3 hair, but it usually means an "afro" for Type 4 hair. On the other hand, texturizing type 4 hair using a mild relaxer or a permanent haircolor reduces the curl pattern and softens the hair. This softening can cause the hair strands to go limp if the curl product is too oily or too heavy. So after a little trial and error, I discovered a "wash n go" regimen that seems to be light, curl defining, and prevents shrinkage (i.e. holds the style). Also, it is simple enough to repeat every morning! Yay!!!!
The regimen: 1) Start off with KeraCare Cleansing Cream. Shampoo with this between 1 and 3 times depending on how "soiled" your hair is. 2) Towel blot; skip deep conditioning because it will make the hair strands too soft. 3)Add Mixed Chicks Leave-in Conditioner. Use moderately. Too much may cause crystallization with the next product. However, you need this leave-in conditioner for volume purposes. 4) Work the KeraCare Defining Custard through the hair. This product consistency is like "egg whites" but not sticky. 5) Style and diffuse or style and air dry.
Voila! Three products and about 15 minutes max!
NOTE: The hair should be cut or shaped to support a wash n go style. Also, texturize the new growth as needed. If you are wetting the hair everyday, you will not need to texturize as often. Also, I tried the KeraCare Natural Textures Leave-in Conditioner. It worked fine, but it has propylene glycol in it. The Mixed Chicks Leave-in conditioner is healthier for the hair because of the glycerin in it. Please see my other articles on propylene glycol and other potential cancer causing ingredients.
Going natural is a great summer experiment!!!! Enjoy!
Tuesday, July 12, 2011
Tired of Starting over! Six Months Flat Iron Free!
So one day you find your hair is absolutely damaged? So the dermatologist says "cut it all off" . . . then the new hairstylist says "cut it all off" . . . everyone says "cut it all off" so after you have cut it all off several times within a twenty year life span . . . You get "freak'n tired" of starting back over! No wonder so many people go natural . . . locks, twists, afros . . . .
The problem with starting over is no one ever tells you why after all of the products and due diligence that you do to take care of your hair . . . your "nappy hair" just keeps getting damaged. Enough is enough!
Guess what? Sensitive scalp relaxers (yeah the ones that you have to mix; they come in two parts) are more damaging than regular lye relaxers. Do your research! Research DEEP! It is true! Unfortunately, those with sensitive scalps can not bare lye relaxers without burning too soon. So the number of "non-burning" lye relaxers (conditioning lye relaxers) are few and far between. So far - I have only found Paul Mitchell, Design Essentials' Time Release Regular and possibly NuExpressions Gold VS. (I am still researching the NuExpressions relaxer).
So I eliminated sensitive scalp (i.e. no lye) relaxers about two years ago . . . so scalp improvement and thinning were eliminated. Manufacturers will still try to sell those box relaxers to you. Just like cigarettes and alcohol . . . use at your own risk! They need to make their money!
However, after elininating the scalp issues; I still found my hair strands to be so tempermental. So something else had to be causing me problems. So after eliminating every other possibility; I discovered that the culprit was none other than the flat iron . . . Whether you spend $350 or $100 on a brand name flat iron . . . they are absolutely damaging long-term. So now, I am flat iron free six months. I texturize/texlax about every six weeks. I am the happiest I have been ever! See my picture! Yay!!!! It may not mean a lot to those born with carefree hair . . . but for those sistahs whose natural texture is far from being European, six months past starting over again, this is a great picture of a bright future!
Full steam ahead!!!!
The problem with starting over is no one ever tells you why after all of the products and due diligence that you do to take care of your hair . . . your "nappy hair" just keeps getting damaged. Enough is enough!
Guess what? Sensitive scalp relaxers (yeah the ones that you have to mix; they come in two parts) are more damaging than regular lye relaxers. Do your research! Research DEEP! It is true! Unfortunately, those with sensitive scalps can not bare lye relaxers without burning too soon. So the number of "non-burning" lye relaxers (conditioning lye relaxers) are few and far between. So far - I have only found Paul Mitchell, Design Essentials' Time Release Regular and possibly NuExpressions Gold VS. (I am still researching the NuExpressions relaxer).
So I eliminated sensitive scalp (i.e. no lye) relaxers about two years ago . . . so scalp improvement and thinning were eliminated. Manufacturers will still try to sell those box relaxers to you. Just like cigarettes and alcohol . . . use at your own risk! They need to make their money!
However, after elininating the scalp issues; I still found my hair strands to be so tempermental. So something else had to be causing me problems. So after eliminating every other possibility; I discovered that the culprit was none other than the flat iron . . . Whether you spend $350 or $100 on a brand name flat iron . . . they are absolutely damaging long-term. So now, I am flat iron free six months. I texturize/texlax about every six weeks. I am the happiest I have been ever! See my picture! Yay!!!! It may not mean a lot to those born with carefree hair . . . but for those sistahs whose natural texture is far from being European, six months past starting over again, this is a great picture of a bright future!
Full steam ahead!!!!
Demi-permanent haircolor and Relaxers Revisited
First of all, let's revisit formal haircolor terminology. A rinse is usually a leave-in lotion or foam designed to last one shampoo. Please see my article on Fanci-full brand for more information on rinses.
A true Semi-permanent haircolor is a no mix, direct dye usually applied from a squeeze bottle. Semi-permanents are great for fashion colors but usually do not cover resistant gray/white hair.
Demi-permanent haircolor is a haircolor that comes in two parts that you have to mix. The activating lotion usually contains some peroxide which is similar to permanent color. Usually, the peroxide level is too low to be considered permanent color; however, the haircolor usually holds like permanent color. Demi- permanent color such as Goldwell Colorance line has two activating lotion strengths. One is Intensive and should be treated like permanent color. The other is mild and can be used on the same day as a relaxers under CERTAIN conditions. Only clients fighting resistant gray will be your ideal customer for this on the same day as a relaxer. All others - I suggest only true semi-permanent one step haircolor if they just received a relaxer.
The picture above is from the box of an Organic Root Stimulant relaxer discussing the "do's and don'ts of hair relaxing." They do not recommend the demi-permanent haircolor be performed on the same day as a normal strength relaxer. I have written a separate article about haircolor and relaxing on the same day. I do not recommend anyone who has Type 4 curl pattern to use demi-permanent color and relaxer on the same day. The Fiberguard Affirm relaxer is probably the only exception. The Fiberguard brand has an extra strengthening complex in it. I have written a separate article on Fiberguard relaxers for color- treated hair.
If you have resistant gray and a tight curl pattern - plan for haircolor on a separate day from the relaxer and two weeks a part. It will cost you more financially, but it is better not to gamble with hair loss!
A true Semi-permanent haircolor is a no mix, direct dye usually applied from a squeeze bottle. Semi-permanents are great for fashion colors but usually do not cover resistant gray/white hair.
Demi-permanent haircolor is a haircolor that comes in two parts that you have to mix. The activating lotion usually contains some peroxide which is similar to permanent color. Usually, the peroxide level is too low to be considered permanent color; however, the haircolor usually holds like permanent color. Demi- permanent color such as Goldwell Colorance line has two activating lotion strengths. One is Intensive and should be treated like permanent color. The other is mild and can be used on the same day as a relaxers under CERTAIN conditions. Only clients fighting resistant gray will be your ideal customer for this on the same day as a relaxer. All others - I suggest only true semi-permanent one step haircolor if they just received a relaxer.
The picture above is from the box of an Organic Root Stimulant relaxer discussing the "do's and don'ts of hair relaxing." They do not recommend the demi-permanent haircolor be performed on the same day as a normal strength relaxer. I have written a separate article about haircolor and relaxing on the same day. I do not recommend anyone who has Type 4 curl pattern to use demi-permanent color and relaxer on the same day. The Fiberguard Affirm relaxer is probably the only exception. The Fiberguard brand has an extra strengthening complex in it. I have written a separate article on Fiberguard relaxers for color- treated hair.
If you have resistant gray and a tight curl pattern - plan for haircolor on a separate day from the relaxer and two weeks a part. It will cost you more financially, but it is better not to gamble with hair loss!
Monday, July 4, 2011
Curl Pattern Review: Which curl pattern are you?
Curly Hair Review:
Spring Roll/Curly? Many people with this wave pattern have Spanish/South American heritage. Type 2 curl pattern. It is more wavy than curly. Picture is from my.opera.com
Finger size/Curly? Many people with this curl pattern are Cuban, Dominican, and other cultures where hair is occasionally relaxed for control. Type 3c hair. The model attached looks to have two textures. Finger size curls in the front and pencil size curls in the back/nape area. Picture is from www.ebenenaturals.com
Pencil Size/Curly? Many people with this curl pattern have very mixed heritage. This curl pattern is borderline kinky, but easily can be worn as "wash n' go" hair. Type 4a hair. Picture is from www.hair-styles-secrets-revealed.com
Carpenter screw/Kinky Curly? This curl pattern is often referred to as a "Z" pattern. It is delicate in its natural state as well as when it is chemically treated. Type 4a hair. Picture is from www.ethnic-beauty-central.com
Type 4b hair; stay tuned for even more tightly coiled tresses!
Borrowed from digitalcurls.blogspot.com, Jenifer Lewis is pretty close to a type 4c pattern.
Wavy Hair Review: Body wave/S-shaped? Many people with this wave pattern come from India. Picture is from www.acannthus.blogspot.com
Deep wave/Rippled? Many people with this wave pattern have Native American Indian backgrounds.
Spring Roll/Curly? Many people with this wave pattern have Spanish/South American heritage. Type 2 curl pattern. It is more wavy than curly. Picture is from my.opera.com
Finger size/Curly? Many people with this curl pattern are Cuban, Dominican, and other cultures where hair is occasionally relaxed for control. Type 3c hair. The model attached looks to have two textures. Finger size curls in the front and pencil size curls in the back/nape area. Picture is from www.ebenenaturals.com
Pencil Size/Curly? Many people with this curl pattern have very mixed heritage. This curl pattern is borderline kinky, but easily can be worn as "wash n' go" hair. Type 4a hair. Picture is from www.hair-styles-secrets-revealed.com
Carpenter screw/Kinky Curly? This curl pattern is often referred to as a "Z" pattern. It is delicate in its natural state as well as when it is chemically treated. Type 4a hair. Picture is from www.ethnic-beauty-central.com
Type 4b hair; stay tuned for even more tightly coiled tresses!
Borrowed from digitalcurls.blogspot.com, Jenifer Lewis is pretty close to a type 4c pattern.
Wavy Hair Review: Body wave/S-shaped? Many people with this wave pattern come from India. Picture is from www.acannthus.blogspot.com
Deep wave/Rippled? Many people with this wave pattern have Native American Indian backgrounds.