Tuesday, July 12, 2011

Demi-permanent haircolor and Relaxers Revisited

First of all, let's revisit formal haircolor terminology. A rinse is usually a leave-in lotion or foam designed to last one shampoo. Please see my article on Fanci-full brand for more information on rinses.

A true Semi-permanent haircolor is a no mix, direct dye usually applied from a squeeze bottle. Semi-permanents are great for fashion colors but usually do not cover resistant gray/white hair.

Demi-permanent haircolor is a haircolor that comes in two parts that you have to mix. The activating lotion usually contains some peroxide which is similar to permanent color. Usually, the peroxide level is too low to be considered permanent color; however, the haircolor usually holds like permanent color. Demi- permanent color such as Goldwell Colorance line has two activating lotion strengths. One is Intensive and should be treated like permanent color. The other is mild and can be used on the same day as a relaxers under CERTAIN conditions. Only clients fighting resistant gray will be your ideal customer for this on the same day as a relaxer. All others - I suggest only true semi-permanent one step haircolor if they just received a relaxer.

The picture above is from the box of an Organic Root Stimulant relaxer discussing the "do's and don'ts of hair relaxing." They do not recommend the demi-permanent haircolor be performed on the same day as a normal strength relaxer. I have written a separate article about haircolor and relaxing on the same day. I do not recommend anyone who has Type 4 curl pattern to use demi-permanent color and relaxer on the same day. The Fiberguard Affirm relaxer is probably the only exception. The Fiberguard brand has an extra strengthening complex in it. I have written a separate article on Fiberguard relaxers for color- treated hair.

If you have resistant gray and a tight curl pattern - plan for haircolor on a separate day from the relaxer and two weeks a part. It will cost you more financially, but it is better not to gamble with hair loss!

6 comments:

  1. My beautician uses a demi color on my hair and because money is tight, I always perm my hair at home two weeks prior to getting my color. (We have that understanding.) The problem is, I use Organic Root Stimulator (kit) for medium hair and a few days later my hair is very dry even after deep conditioning. I think my problem is the perm. Can you recommend a few good perms that works well with a demi color?

    Thanks.

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  2. Hi "unknown"! Organic Root Stimulant is the best consumer brand relaxer that I can think of. Maybe try "mild" strength and let it sit about five minutes longer. Consider trying the Clairol Jazzing line, processing about 25 to 30 minutes in lieu of the demi-permanent color service. Jazzing is semi-permanent and safe to use on same day as the relaxer, but after the conditioning step. Then use one more light shampoo to get excess Jazzing color off the scalp. No final conditioner should be needed because the Jazzing will seal the hair. Coffee Bean is a nice dark brown color. Hope this helps!

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  3. Wow, pHenomenalhairstylist! Thanks for this information. This is exactly what I need.I can't wait to try the Jazzing color. Coffee Bean, huh? Sounds like you know I'm trying to keep it looking naturally brown like it used to look before the rebellious grey moved in. Thanks again.

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  4. I have a very short cut, after relaxing my hair is dry and brittle, even after several deep conditioning treatments. HELP!!!!

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  5. Hi Nanny911! Maybe too much protein? Try Mizani Moistufuse by itself under the dryer . . .
    and "Unknown" - you are welcome!

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  6. KeraCare Humecto conditioner seems to have improved over the years. I trust it more than the Mizani Moisturfuse for not over-proteinizing the hair. The Humecto is more liquid than cream which seems to be important in some cases. I have a new article posted on my blog re: a recipe for overproteinized hair.

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