When dealing with double processed hair (relaxer and permanent color), I prefer to stick with a haircolor line that has a 1:1 ratio of color vs. developer. Also, I like that fact that the Minardi haircolor line has a 5 volume developer versus the 10 volume.
I am uncertain if this color line is progressive or not, but because Beth Minardi understands the importance of keeping the gray hair covered, I feel certain that this haircolor is going to become my new favorite.
I currently use Schwarzkopf haircolor in the salon which is also a 1:1 ratio, but with some recent company reorganizations, it sent all of us into a frenzy trying to get our hands on the new packaging, training, etc.
Everyone always needs a backup plan. I spoke with a few Minardi representatives recently. Here is what I learned:
1) They do not offer a semi-permanent color in their line. Just demi-permanent color in either cream or liquid as well as permanent haircolor.
2) The "ICE" category is like a "NN" but it is not to be used alone.
3) The Liquid Demi-permanent color can be used as a filler during color correction services.
4) The cream Demi-permanent color is more alkaline than the liquid demi-permanent color. The liquid formula is more acidic and sheer.
5) The Demi-permanent color is in purple packaging, and the corresponding backbar shampoo and "after-wash" has purple labelling. The permanent color is in orange packaging, and the corresponding backbar shampoo and "after-wash" has orange labelling.
6) Clients with less than 50% gray can get solid gray coverage with the demi-permanent color.
7) Permanent haircolor has a 45 minute suggested processing time. That's a good window for application as well.
I have noticed the swatches look darker than the usual color levels that I work with. I will have to keep everyone posted as I get more experienced with matching the color levels for this particular line.
So far so good on double processed ethnic hair, but I was told that the gray coverage was a little challenging without the ICE combo on mainstream, un-relaxed hair.
ReplyDeleteBeth Minardi's demi-permanent creme haircolor is alkaline. I use it in lieu of a relaxer to deliver a texturized looseness on afro textures hair. So you are correct, to be careful with the cream Demi. However, her liquid demi-permanent haircolor is acidic and goes on wet. It still requires 5 volume developer, but you will find it more sealing with shine.
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