I received this chart from one of my continuing education classes. It shows curl reduction or curl elongation from 0% to 100%. Typically, if a client is receiving a relaxer service, then I shoot for 75 to 85% curl reduction. Some hairstylists shoot for 95 to 100%. If a client asks me for a texturizer, then I shoot for 50% curl reduction. Where I run into a challenge is when a client tells me to texturize, but in reality, she really wants to achieve 75 to 85% in curl reduction. Obviously, as an end result we are not on the same page if she is used to hairstylists giving her 100% bone straight hair, and I am delivering 50% texturized hair which was what she had asked for by my own definition. So now, I prefer to ask clients in curl reduction percentages "What are they trying to achieve? 50% or 85% or 100% curl reduction?" That way, we are both on the same page. Of course, 100% curl reduction can be problematic for the hair long term, but that is a whole other story.
what salon do you work for?
ReplyDeleteHi Kiki: It's been a long weekend. I am stationed at Applebaum Salon and Blooming Beauty Supply and salon in Northlake Mall.
ReplyDeleteSo how long would you have to keep a relaxer in of of what strength to get 25 - 50 % curl reduction? Thanks :)
ReplyDeleteHi Schatzi: Great question. For resistant hair, achieving 25% to 50% curl reduction is simple. Just use a mild relaxer, smooth it out as much as it will smooth out and then rinse out at your leisure. However, if you do NOT have resistant hair, then try a mild Paul Mitchell relaxer. Apply product quickly with a wide tooth comb for about 10 minutes total. Rinse as soon as it begins to loosen up. As long as the hair strand is not smoothed completely out, it should revert back to a little kink. To avoid overlapping, repeating this curl reduction once every 4 to 5 months would prevent it from going completely straight. Please remember your curl pattern reduction is unique to your own hair strand. So 25% curl reduction will not get you a type 3 curl pattern if you are starting out with a type 4c curl pattern. 25 TO 50% curl reduction in a type 4c, resistant curl pattern solves nothing. It actually becomes more of a frustration to deal with. I do not know your curl pattern nor resistance level, but I hope that this information helps!
ReplyDeleteHello, I live in France and I want to relax my natural hair (I am waistlength now).
ReplyDeleteI was wondering how long would I have to keep a relaxer in of of what strength to get 75 - 85 % curl reduction? ( I am 4C ) Thanks :)
Hi Sara: Some 4c hair is more resistant than others. So if you pull your hair straight with your fingers and let go, does it spring back at the speed of light or does it stay extended and gradually shrinks back? If it is shrinks quickly then your hair is resistant and I suggest Affirm Normal avoiding the first inch and half of the roots until the ends straighten to your desire. Put relaxer at the roots last because that is where your living scalp and body heat for quick processing lies. Based on the length that you are describing, you may need help to keep your speed up and not blind yourself with hair in your face. Now, if your hair is NOT the resistant 4c version, then follow the same procedure but try the Vitale Pro High Comfort regular relaxer instead. The Vitale Pro relaxer is less aggressive than the Affirm Normal/Regular. Please see my blog post on successful virgin relaxer. I hope this helps. Best wishes! I hope to visit France one day soon!
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