This is the newest re-packaging of the Paul Mitchell relaxer/retexturizing system. I never tried his relaxers in the old packaging. However, I wanted to share some of the clients' feedback on this relaxer system. 1)Client "A" shared with me that she had a history of flaking, abnormally itchy scalp, and psoriasis flare ups with receiving relaxers in the past. She was willing to try the Paul Mitchell relaxer with my expertise in application. Last report: Three weeks after receiving the Paul Mitchell relaxer Super strength, she still had NO scalp disorders and NO scalp irritations. So we agreed that we were headed in the right direction. The styling is still a little harder because some hair was underprocessed due to the fact that she had a full head of "virgin" overcurly hair. The term "underprocessed" means that hair is more texturized than it is relaxed. (i.e. 50% curl reduction versus 85% curl reduction) Any underprocessed hair can overlapped in the next visit with a touch-up service if desired.2) Client "B" was easy to burn within a few minutes with the application of most ethnic lye relaxer applications. She was also experiencing some hair density changes with the "sensitive scalp" relaxer applications. (i.e. thinning) So she trusted me to start with the Paul Mitchel "lye" relaxers and it worked! Over the last six months, she now has a healthier scalp, increase in hair density, and "NO BURNING" even with the Paul Mitchell "Super" strength application.
Most people are scared of the Super strength relaxer and rightfully so. I have found that the regular strength Design Essential relaxer is STRONGER than the super strength Paul Mitchell relaxer. Example: "Client C" usually received regular strength Design Essentials relaxer that she received every 3 months. However, the Paul Mitchell super strength relaxer that she received only held her for two months. She decided to return to the Design Essentials relaxer for her next touch-up service. She wanted "more bang for the buck."
It is safe to start out with Mild or Regular Strength Paul Mitchell relaxer system if you are not kinky-curly in curl pattern and you are not concerned with straightness. Typically, I start everyone out with regular strength Paul Mitchell relaxers and move up to super strength on future visits if hair appears underprocessed with the regular strength.
Hair that is underprocessed can cause styling challenges and "popping" from the tangles. So finding the right strength is important. I do not offer "Super" in any of the ethnic relaxer lines. This should give you a good perspective of my thoughts on relaxer comparisons as far as strength is concerned. I actually feel that Paul Mitchell has more conditioners built into his Super strength relaxer than the regular strength. I feel that sensitive scalp clients may experience more sensation with the regular strength Paul Mitchell relaxer than they do with the super strength. It sounds weird, but my experiences are leading me to that conclusion.
Fine, overcurly hair should stick with Regular strength Paul Mitchell relaxer. I also suggest adding the Mizani Butter Blend Microfusion Penetrating Treatment spray to use after the neutralizing shampooing phase in order to infuse the oils back into ethnic hair.
The neutralizing shampoos used with the Paul Mitchell relaxer system can be "over clarifying" for some ethnic hair in my opinion. I get the best results by adding extra conditioners (such as Mizani Butter Blend Microfusion) in addition to the Paul Mitchell recommended "Lavendar Mint" conditioner.
Now, as for me, It took me about 14 months to recover from the "Bodipher" experience on my own hair, but I could not have done it without the Paul Mitchell relaxer system! I have found the super strength gives me about 75% straightness. That is straight enough to keep it humidity resistant.
Who should consider Paul Mitchell relaxers as an option? Anyone with a sensitive scalp and is receiving sensitive scalp relaxers in the salon. Here is a link supporting the dangers of sensitive scalp relaxers: http://www.dralisyed.com/2009/10/new-information-regarding-sens.html#more
After discovering how most relaxers and ethnic lines have non-Black chemists, but they hide behind an all-Black marketing campaign, I feel more confident than ever to recommend the Paul Mitchell relaxer line. It is from a professional product line that has exceptional customer service and knowledgeable educators. Also, in regards to my reference to Dr. Ali Syed, I found an article in his blog stating that Madam C J Walker invented the pressing comb. This is not true. I was surprised that he posted incorrect information. So his credibility is a little questionable when it comes to reciting history. I think that his study on sensitive scalp relaxers should be accurate since it is not history related.
ReplyDeleteThe Mizani Butter Blend Microfusion spray has been discontinued. It is no longer being manufactured. I am researching a new spray by Tressa to use lieu of the Mizani Microfusion spray.
ReplyDeleteI just received a Paul Mitchell update on their relaxers. Due to lower demand, the mild and super strengths are scheduled to be discontinued. Only the regular strength will be available. Also, please check your batch codes, there are unopened batches of relaxers from 2009 still on some shelves. (If batch code starts with s9, then more than likely you have an expired batch).
ReplyDeleteHave you found a replacement for the Mizani Microfusion spray?
ReplyDeleteShumon, I am on my last bottle of the Microfusion spray. I did not find a replacement as of yet. I will more than likely just use the Keracare Humecto conditioner only. I will update this post if I discover a better conditioning step. I have a few new lines that I plan to start getting into the salon.
DeleteI just used the Regular Strength Relaxer on a Philippino client with previously unprocessed hair that was only wavy. It only reduced the wave by maybe 20%. After reading your post I checked the code on the bottom of the tub (which I purchased last week!), it starts with S6. Does this mean it was manufactured in 2006?!
ReplyDeleteunfortunately Miriam, yes, 2006, but you can call Paul Mitchell to be sure. I have called Cosmoprof four times about old relaxer on their shelves. Since May 2014, they have not shown any sincere concern about the old relaxer. I would be willing to form a group to begin a class action. Maybe they will begin to actually listen to us the hairstylist.
DeleteIt took five months and several phone calls for the Cosmoprof stores to get rid of all the expired Paul Mitchell relaxers, but finally, it is done. This was a lot of work on my part to get their attention, and I was not even on the payroll. Our beauty industry is SERIOUSLY underregulated. This is truly an example of my commitment and passion as it relates to our hair industry.
ReplyDelete****IMPORTANT******I have found that the Shampoo Two Clarifying Shampoo does not completely clarify the relaxer residue from every clients hair. I STRONGLY suggest adding a neutralizing/normalizing shampoo with a color alert/alarm built into it. Affirm Normalizing shampoo works as well as Isoplus Neutralizing Shampoo/Conditioner. Please search on this blog for other color alert neutralizing shampoo brand recommendations. Also, make sure the relaxer residue gets out of the midshaft of long hair. The runoff water can deposit relaxer residue back through out the length of the hair. Shampoo until the lather is no longer pink. This precautionary step can avoiding creeping oxidation.
ReplyDeleteCan I color after PM relaxer? It's been over a month since I did the relaxer..
ReplyDeleteTricky question. It depends on the strength of the hair color that you are using especially if it is the same day as the relaxer. If it is a month out, then relaxed hair in general has a 20 volume limit.
Delete