I was selected as an Educator for the 2010 Mid-Winter Bronner Bros Hair Show. One of the questions that came up was about proteins.
There are vegetable protein, animal protein, hair/keratin protein, and wheat protein.
The animal protein treatments usually have an odor, but they typically work on ethnic hair quite well. Dudley's DRC-28 was classic for revitalizing hair; however, something changed with their product in 2009, and it stopped working for me. Their customer service was on the defense and would not listen. Another stylist in the Atlanta class witnessed the same thing-- poor customer service. But back to the topic at hand, animal protein treatment usually requires heat. Some are messy which means it is more time consuming.
Vegetable protein does not seem to absorb in to ethnic hair very well.
Keratin protein such as the JOICO K-Pak does not absorb into the ethnic hair as well either.
Now, the wheat protein is awesome for ALL HAIR TYPES! The Redken Extreme CAT Treatment works wonders immediately, and it does NOT smell. It works quickly without any heat. It still should be followed with a moisturizing conditioner.
In fact, all "pure protein" treatments should be followed by a moisturizing conditioner to soften the "strengh" that you add to the hair shaft. Good moisturizing conditioners include Mizani Moistufuse conditioner or Graham Webb's Back to Basics Coconut Mango.
Protein treatments should be received a week or two prior to the relaxer touch-up service to ensure the integrity of the hair. Pure protein treatments should not be used on the day of the relaxer because the cuticle is too vulnerable to open wide from the elevated pH state. Pure protein in that instable state will overpower the hair shaft and may cause more problems in weeks to come.
Protein treatment services every other month will ensure phenomenal long hair by repairing and polishing cuticle damage.
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I've learned so much by reading this blog for the past few weeks, so thank you :)
ReplyDeleteI have a question regarding what you say about not doing "pure protein treatments" directly after a relaxer service. What exactly is considered a "pure protein treatment?" I always assumed it was good to follow a relaxer up with a reconstructing conditioner that contains elements like hydrolyzed protein, collagen, and keratin. What "pure protein treatments" should we stay away from right after a relaxer?
Pure proteins include Dudley's DRC-28, Aphogee step1 reconstructor, Redken CAT, Sebastian Penetrait, Keracare Super Reconstructor and others. Because the cuticle is swollen from the relaxer service, pure protein can flood into the strand and prevent the cuticle from closing down properly, leaving frizzy, raised cuticle hair. There are some reconstructors specifically designed for relaxer services such as Affirm 5 in 1 and Design Essentials 6 in 1. These reconstructors are balanced for moisture and some strength. Hope this helps! Thanks for the great feedback!
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