Saturday, June 29, 2013
1) From the scalp to the length of the clip is the finger twist tightening technique. (around 3 months of new growth)
2) From the end of the clip to the start of the "stringy end" is the Sisterlock interlocking technique. (around 8 months midshift)
3) The "stringy end" is my relaxed hair that has been woven using the Sisterlock interlocking technique.
So I can not visually tell the difference between finger twisting and Interlocking as far as lock formation. I can only tell where I have chemically processed hair.
My dreadlock pictured above measures over 5 inches in total length including over 2 inches of relaxed hair. I actually wonder if I had enough new growth to have even started Sisterlocks 11 months ago.
So by my calculations, I gained about 3 solid inches of lock length in 11 months. Considering my coily, zig zag curl pattern never showed a lot of length until it was straightened by heat or chemical, I am comfortable with my growth cycle. In another 22 months, I should be a nice full chin level bob without the relaxed, stringy ends. It may even be sooner who knows?
Well, we shall see!
Friday, June 28, 2013
I have had request for other chemical options besides the traditional relaxers and keratin treatments.
I am hoping the Vigorol is going to be an answer for those desiring to tame their natural hair. It is not compatible with traditional sodium hydroxide relaxers; so clients will have to be thoroughly counselled.
The Wave Nouveau has two rearranger strengths whereas Wave by Design only has one rearranger strength. Those with resistant hair find that the Wave by Design rearranger only texturizes their new growth.
My body wave client from a previous article is ready to advance the strength of the rearranger by using the Wave Nouveau system. I plan to post those results within two more weeks. I should perform the service next week.
So this article is the preview of the "thio" chemical reviews on the horizon for you in the future. Please stay tuned!
Another great idea from another subscriber: Will this bracelet support other accessories besides pins?
Well, clips, roller pins, and magnetic stic pics seems to stick nicely too!
Thursday, June 27, 2013
I accepted a settlement offer out of court, therefore, I am free to do whatever I want with my hair now. Yay!!!!!
Well, it took me 3 hours to finger twist/tighten my locks. I have not had it interlocked with a tool since March 4, 2013. I am finger twisting every six weeks. So far, it is working. I think that I may feel one hump in each lock where the method has changed, but you can not visually see it. I had enough new growth this tightening session to get a good inch of twisting in.
In addition, 9 out of 10 lock wearers that I interview, all tightening their own locks. They only go to the loctician if their locks get past due, and they need some strands snipped because they have started growing together.
I will probably start calling my hair "locks" versus "Sisterlocks" only because I am changing the tightening method. I plan to continue to preserve my original lock sizing. If I go to a locitician, I would caution them not to double my locks.
So I am taking my lock journey down a different path. I look forward to another few years from now.
In the meantime, my stocking cap wigs will be on hand for corporate affairs. Southerners seem more comfortable with long, straight hair in the business world.
Monday, June 24, 2013
Thursday, June 20, 2013
In my opinion, there are accidents and then there are acts of gross negligence. Let's discuss what I think is considered gross negligence, and you should have no problem winning a lawsuit against a hairstylist.
1) Gross Negligence is when manufacturer's instructions are not followed resulting in immediate hair loss.
Example: If the hairstylist is not using the proper measuring cup for sensitive scalp relaxers. In the picture above, the measuring cup on the left is for Avlon's Affirm, Fiberguard Affirm relaxers. The measuring cup on the right is for Design Essentials Sensitive Scalp relaxers. There are lines on the measuring cups. The activator liquid should be as precise as possible when mixing the sensitive scalp relaxer. In the picture below, I have an almost expired tub of sensitive scalp relaxer and the appropriate measuring cup. So when does this procedure become gross negligence? If the hairstylist scoops out half of a "fresh" tub to conserve on product to possibly get two uses out of one "small" tub of sensitive scalp relaxer then she/he pours activator liquid into the reduced amount of relaxer without using the designated measuring cup. So in essence, the stylist creates a "beyond super strength" customized relaxer and then puts it on the client's hair, and the client's hair breaks off 3 inches in the bowl and the cuticle is blown wide open. This is gross negligence. The activator liquid is the "fire" that makes the sensitive scalp relaxers work. This mixing of a chemical should follow the manufacturer's direction exactly. If the hairstylist uses another brand of neutralizing shampoo, then that is not gross negligence. That is just bad practice. But again, mixing the chemical improperly is gross negligence in my opinion.
Some of you may think that this story is far fetch, but I assure you it is not. I was the customer when this happened to me and the hairstylist that ruined my hair that day still avoids me at all cost. The only way that I knew what happened was because I had brought my own relaxer system with me because she was out. (Flag!) Then she attempted to base my scalp with "Equate petroleum jelly" until I told her "no." So she borrowed another stylist's proper relaxer base appplicator bottle. (Flag!) After my hair length went from below my chin in the front to cheek level by the time that I left the salon, I just sucked the situation up until when I got back to my own salon and unpacked my relaxer system and realized that there was a half a tub of relaxer in my bag. I called her to ask what did she do . . . she explained exactly what I described to you. She was a "discount" stylist and was trying to conserve on relaxer. After later researching how sensitive scalp relaxers work, I concluded that the permanent color (double processed hair) in the front and the "Super, Super Strength" relaxer concoction she created broke my hair off immediately. She admitted that she did not notice the permanent color in my hair until after the relaxer service. So did I sue her? "No" Could I have sued her? "Yes" She did not follow the manufacturer's directions. I had a half tub of sensitive scalp relaxer as proof plus some before and after pictures.
On a separate note, sensitive scalp relaxers should be immediately used after mixing them because they become increasingly unstable. A hairstylist should NOT pre-mix the sensitive scalp relaxer to save time and store in the refrigerator. A sensitive scalp relaxer mixed too soon before application can be more aggressive on the hair and cause some breakage. This bad practice in my opinion is not gross negligence, but I would be cautious if the relaxer feels cool during the application process. And yes, I had a different hairstylist who used to refrigerate the sensitive scalp relaxers that she pre-mixed. I personally do not offer sensitive scalp relaxers because long term they have been proven to be more drying to the hair. In addition, the Affirm relaxer line has improved to the point that it is tolerable for all clients including those with sensitive scalps.
2) Gross negligence is also experimenting on a client with a new chemical without knowing the ingredients or the chemical base of the new product causing immediate breakage due to chemical incompatibility.
Example: It is basic knowledge from "hair school" that thio based chemicals and relaxers are NOT compatible because they soften two different hair bonds. Typically, thio based chemicals produce a distinct smell when applied. So if the chemical procedure has a strong odor, then that is a "clue" to you that it may be a thio based process and should not be applied to a client with previously relaxed hair. Breakage will occur if those two chemicals meet. So with that said, some manufacturers will promote Keratin based services with a thio derivative to avoid saying it is thio based which is deceptive marketing. If it is a thio derivative, then it still is not compatible to hydroxide based relaxers. Some "texturizers" are also thio based. I believe "Vigorol" is also a thio based liquid relaxer which is NOT compatible with traditional relaxers.
As a consumer, you should have the hairstylist write down the exact name of the "new" chemical that is being used so you can research the product in case you see abnormal changes with your hair.
All other "hair accidents" are just that "accidents." If the hairstylist is overworked, lapse in judgement can happen. In addition, some hair types respond differently to different procedures.
Also, hair extensions can cause damage to the hair during the removal process. So if someone is wearing adhesive based hair extensions for three years straight, then yes, they may expect some damage has occurred over a three year span of removal and re-applications. Who is at fault? I believe that the courts would rule that hair extensions as well as relaxers are "use at your own risk" because both processes can cause damage, but most people take the risk because they like the finished look of a successful service.
Consumers should know that hairstylists are on the "front line." If the manufacturers change their ingredients, then hairstylists are at the mercy of the new formula working, and customers must being patient enough to work through any additional changes that need to be made to continue achieving successful results.
Hair is a practice like a doctor/dentist/attorney. It is never going to be perfect for everyone all the time. We all make the best of it by continuing to learn and progress. Let me know if you have questions about a particular hair situation.
Also, if you pursue small claims court, it may cost you over $90 to file the case. So if your hair service in question costs less than $100 then why pay $90 trying to get $90?
So, unless the hair service costs over $200, then I do not recommend pursuing small claims court to get a refund. Most professional hairstylists will refund some monies before it gets that far.
Tuesday, June 18, 2013
Even my family has told me that they have become increasingly aware of Sisterlocks, dreadlocks, etc.
I have just added another product line to the salon with the vision of adding additional lock clientele.
As far as my own locks, the Judge Mathis television show wrote me and wants my case . . . I will keep you posted . . .
With part in the center or a side part . . .
In the picture above, I glued the excess stocking cap together to cut it off to avoid that extra hump in the top of my head. For more details on how to make this customized stocking cap unit, please see my separate article on this blog for "Removable Quickweave wig."
Wednesday, June 12, 2013
Traditional Locks (photo credit: www.jaguda.com) are more prone to lay straight versus being "light and fluffy" like Sisterlocks. (photo credit: www.huntresslocs.com)
My hair is not as large as traditional locks, but not as small as Sisterlocks are designed to be.
My locks at 10.5 months below in the fuschia collared shirt.
Seeing pictures of all three categories of dreadlocks, helps me to keep my sizing in perspective.
I selected Affirm Normal and Affirm Mild as my relaxer systems mainly because they work without the burning. I used the Normal strength to go through the midshaft through the ends. I then went back to the roots and applied the Mild strength. Initially, I put a 2 inch guide of relaxer throughout the hair about an inch or inch and a half away from the scalp to allow me to go through a second pass to get from my relaxer guide down the mid-shaft and all the way through the ends. The roots and hairline were covered at my third pass through the hair. I completed the first and second passes within 20 minutes. The product was very heavy on the hair. I had to gently fight to get the hair parted to evenly distribute Mild relaxer to the remaining roots, but we successfully completed the full virgin relaxer application and smoothing within 35 minutes. The salon temperature was cool. The length was extremely long. Medium length hair will have taken less time.
Tuesday, June 11, 2013
I just tried out the newest automated curling tool called the MiraCurl. The name reminds me of a "miracle." Overall, I was impressed with the tool and its results for the right type of hair. The side of the tool with the "writing on it" is supposed to face the clients' head. Pull a section of hair out, place it across the MiraCurl opening, and close the tool up. It then automatically "reels" the section of hair into the curling mechanism.
Hold and then release after the "beep." The curl created is spiral and uniform.
For those hairstylists who are starting to have challenges with their wrist, this tool is perfect and quick. The hair needs to be straight going in. Do not expect the tool to smooth the cuticle and curl at the same time. I repeat that it is for curling hair that is already smooth and straight. The tool is retailing for about $300. It has created a lot of buzz lately. I do not feel like I have enough clientele who would truly benefit from this service. So the only downside to this tool is the price.
Monday, June 10, 2013
The Pureology Precious Oil Conditioner has a lot of sunflower oil and very little soy protein. It goes on very smoothly. It also works well under a heated dryer for those with relaxed hair. For finer hair, one may want to stick to the 1 to 2 minutes without the heat to make sure the hair is not too heavy.
When comparing it to the Nairobi Tru Colors' "Clear Gloss," the Dudley's gloss is crystal clear and absorbs quickly into the hair. The Nairobi clear gloss is cloudy looking and seems to coat the hair versus absorb into it.
When charging extra for this clear color bath, the Nairobi clear gloss did not deliver dramatic results. Whereas the Dudley's clear gloss, people are willing to pay extra after just one trial service.
Dudley's is the clear choice for semi-permanent conditioning haircolor.
Saturday, June 8, 2013
I have a regular shear sharpening service to service my salon quarterly to keep my shears sharp. The service guy also sells shears.
When you pay over $200 for shears, then it is best to pay $25 to keep them sharp. If you are only paying $50 or less for shears, then it is best to keep buying new pairs of shears.
As long as the shears are not sawing off the hair when you use them, then they are sharp enough.
I think male hairstylists like long shears. I prefer medium to short shears.
Wednesday, June 5, 2013
She discusses partings, grooming, maintenance, suggested products, and tricks to keep stray hairs wrapped around the lock.
I was not ready for this video when I bought it, but it is perfect for my passion for locks as this moment!
Sunday, June 2, 2013
This conditioner seems to work best with natural, non-relaxed hair. I have been spoiled with the aroma of my Pureology and Paul Mitchell products. In addition, this conditioner can be purchased from some discount stores.
Overall, my curiosity was up because Laila Ali is such an icon for beauty. However, I am going to stick with my longtime professional lines for my clientele. It was good to experiment. You never know until you try it!
Saturday, June 1, 2013
I have seen some online human hair full lace wigs starting at $300. This unit retails for $1500, but it is designed to last a whole year. My client that elected to make this investment is very happy.