Monday, May 27, 2013
When dealing with double processed hair (relaxer and permanent color), I prefer to stick with a haircolor line that has a 1:1 ratio of color vs. developer. Also, I like that fact that the Minardi haircolor line has a 5 volume developer versus the 10 volume.
I am uncertain if this color line is progressive or not, but because Beth Minardi understands the importance of keeping the gray hair covered, I feel certain that this haircolor is going to become my new favorite.
I currently use Schwarzkopf haircolor in the salon which is also a 1:1 ratio, but with some recent company reorganizations, it sent all of us into a frenzy trying to get our hands on the new packaging, training, etc.
Everyone always needs a backup plan. I spoke with a few Minardi representatives recently. Here is what I learned:
1) They do not offer a semi-permanent color in their line. Just demi-permanent color in either cream or liquid as well as permanent haircolor.
2) The "ICE" category is like a "NN" but it is not to be used alone.
3) The Liquid Demi-permanent color can be used as a filler during color correction services.
4) The cream Demi-permanent color is more alkaline than the liquid demi-permanent color. The liquid formula is more acidic and sheer.
5) The Demi-permanent color is in purple packaging, and the corresponding backbar shampoo and "after-wash" has purple labelling. The permanent color is in orange packaging, and the corresponding backbar shampoo and "after-wash" has orange labelling.
6) Clients with less than 50% gray can get solid gray coverage with the demi-permanent color.
7) Permanent haircolor has a 45 minute suggested processing time. That's a good window for application as well.
I have noticed the swatches look darker than the usual color levels that I work with. I will have to keep everyone posted as I get more experienced with matching the color levels for this particular line.
I kept all my original partings during this self-retightening. The aloe vera gel is natural and non-sticky. I did not use any tools. My original partings still look very much in tact as I was separating them.
I sincerely hope that she agrees to settle this case with Judge Mathis! I will keep you posted!
Saturday, May 25, 2013
1) jelly consistency
2) slight discoloration
3) slight stickiness
Expired gels are not going to harm the hair, but it is not going to deliver optimum performance. For example, when doing the quickweave, you need the styling gel to coat the hair uniformly and properly to protect the hair from the glue.
I do not know if anyone ever wondered about when to throw out gel, but the characteristics described within this article should be a guideline for twist and lock gels to styling gels. So lumpy or jelly-like gels should be tossed into the trash.
Thursday, May 23, 2013
They remind me of an "ironing board" for the hair. This pad is great for longer hair because the pressing comb starts to cool down as it runs down the hair strand.
For coarser and/or resistant springy hair, this pressing pad has been extremely helpful. The pressing pads that I have seen in the local beauty supply store are not as plush. You do not want want to burn yourself!
Wednesday, May 22, 2013
So finally, I gave the Denman straighening brush a try. I was able to control my sections as I blow dried on medium heat. I only closed the brush partially and kept working it like I was flat ironing with a handheld blow dryer in the opposite hand. Once the section was about 80% dry, I used the comb attachment to finish out the straightness.This has been the best combination of tools thus far for long, thick, resistant, natural hair.
Actually, this Denman straightening brush is probably good for short, resistant, natural hair as well. Any hair that springs back really quickly when stretched out can be controlled with this straightening brush.
The uans crema conditioner also provided great moisturizing in a short amount of time.
Tuesday, May 21, 2013
The Pompadour haircut on Justin Bieber.
The pompadour haircut on singer Pink.
The most surprising thing about the pompadour haircut that I learned in this Paul Mitchell class was that the center section does not have to be perfectly symmetric on both sides of the head. As seen in this picture and as confirmed by the instructor, one parting is slightly lower on the side than the other.
Also, using a clipper with a #1 guard and buzz off the rest of the hair that is not in your center mohawk sectioning was good to know. Leave a triangle crown area in the back for solidity and in case there are any cowlicks.
Regardless of the sex of the client, the pompadour haircut is almost identical in technique.
Rihanna is sporting a fishtail braid using small pieces at a time. Photo credit from newtrendwhore.com
The fishtail braids can be exotic and elegant at the same time.
Fishtail braid by Benita Blocker.
I used small pieces to make this fishtail braid myself. There are quite a few online tutorials. Starting the fishtail braid is a little tricky, but with practice, it is a "piece of cake." The brown fishtail braid above was about my sixth practice round. I have mastered three techniques of fishtail braiding now.
1) Chunky (big pieces)
2) Non-chunky (small pieces)
3) Chunky with Extreme tension
In the picture below, I am showing my looser fishtail on the left and the DVD cover of the tighter, chunkier fishtail updo on the right.
For Fishtail braided styling for loc wearers: Go to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K3ToGGr6x3k
Click on link above to see a video for a Loc style updo by youtuber marijahbetula.
Photo source: www.dimannodesigns.blogspot.com
Have fun with your fishtail braided hairstyles!
Thursday, May 16, 2013
I overheard two ladies discussing the Jambu shoe brand on my flight to Boston for my Sisterlocks training last August. I have been looking for them ever since.
Wednesday, May 15, 2013
From the Desk of Loctician/Cosmetologist Benita Blocker:
1) If you want maximum styling options, then the locks need to be retightened at a 90 degree angle from the scalp. This can be done by completing a half or full interlocking rotation at the end of any non-interlocking technique. Otherwise, the lock should be held straight out from the scalp when tightening the new growth.
2) All twisting should be completed in a clockwise pattern. Keep your clockwise rotation consistent. This will help with lock uniformity.
3) Determine your natural curl behavior. If you pull your natural hair out, does it spring back like a "slinky" toy? or does it stay extended and gradually shrinks back up? Does your hair ever coil back onto itself or does it just wave out?
If you have "slinky" behavior, the comb twist with a fine tooth barbering comb is my best recommendation to grab and keep all of your coily hair pulled into the lock. This should prevent the locks from thinning out as well as keeping them uniform.
If you have less coily hair that grows away from the scalp, then palm rolling or some form of interlocking would be better. The comb twisting may make your hair harder to lock so I do not recommend comb twists for retightening.
4) All hairtypes can start locks with comb twisting to get scalp partings as desired. Interlocking may need to be combined with the comb twisting to get "hard to lock" hair to hold.
Questions about interlocking and interlocking tools? Some hints and suggestions are included in articles within my blog, but you can also research other sites as well for making your own tools or purchasing speciality tools.
5) 99% pure aloe vera gel can be found at Trader Joes. It has healing and moisturizing properties. It will probably save you money from the stockpiling of all the natural hair gels on the market now. Make sure that you are not allergic to aloe vera. The Jamaican Mango and Lime Locking Gel also has been highly recommended.
6) If a lock breaks off, then save it to be mended. If the broken piece is a small tip, then trash it.
7) If your locks look dry, then your scalp may not naturally produce enough oil to keep the locks moist. Everyone's oil production is different. If your locks need help with moisture, joboba oil or Jamaican Mango and Lime Island oil have received great recommendations.
8) Everyone's hair texture is unique to them, you have to find what works best for you. If your locks are not forming the way you want, then consider switching locticians. You will need to allow at least 4 months to see if a new locking routine is working. You will judge by the new growth area up to start of the existing lock after the locking change.
9) Remind the loctician that you do not want locks doubled up in order to maintain your original grid. If the loctician encounters a lot of locks that need doubling, then either the locks are not staying hydrated enough or the locking method is not working for your hair type. Partner with the loctician to figure out what can be done. If the loctician does not have any suggestions and does not offer to research into some suggestions for you, then you need to move on to another loctician.
10) Lock grooming and lock tightening are two separate services. Some minor lock grooming can be done at lock tightening time, but if you let your locks get seriously past due, then a lock grooming session may need to be scheduled separately from your tightening service. Lock correction is a separate specialty service as well. A long term plan needs to be set in place and the loctician needs to be on the same page with you.
I hope this information has been helpful!
Speaking of my custom made unit, I washed it and repaired it again. The quality of hair that I used is holding up. I am sooooooo pleased. This unit helps me with my corporate image until my locks get longer.
Hair by Benita Blocker, May 2013 Fresh wash and curl!
I have been really studying my curl behavior. It spring rolls like a "slinky" toy. Have you ever tried to undo a "slinky?" It is hard to re-train a slinky to do anything but what it does. So I really do not think a "crochet hook-like" tool is going to be able to pull my "slinky curls" into my locks properly for retightening. I firmly believe that the fine tooth barbering combs are the best tool for my hair type.
My hair type will benefit from comb twisting to grab all of my hair and get it secured. Those who have less springy hair that grows away from the scalp will do fine with interlocking methods such as Sisterlocks or even palm rolling. I do not feel that my hair would benefit from palm rolling because palm rolling does not grab my "spring rolled and parked" curls that are hovering at my scalp.
I have identified a loctician who may be able to comb twist my locks in the future. I have no idea what to do about the front locks yet. I can massage and finger twist the back locks myself because they are larger, at least, until I resolve my Sisterlocks complaint. I hope to have the issue resolved within the next 45 days.
I want to keep as small of locks as possible using the comb twist method. I may still interlock my hair in combination with the comb twist if I find that I need a little extra hold.
Tuesday, May 14, 2013
So the next time that you visit a haircutting salon, check for the contrasting colors between the hair color and the drape and combs.
I have invested in a multitude of colors for capes, but only recently have I focussed on increasing my inventory of cutting combs. For roller sets, "how fine of teeth is in the comb" is more important that the color of the comb.
Also, the quality of the material that the comb is made of can be determined by running your fingernails down the teeth of the comb. The louder the noise that comes from the comb, the cheaper the material.
Carbon combs are black in color and are considered ionic. They are great for use with hot tools. The color of the comb is only important during haircutting services.
I recently realized that I use about five combs per person on any given day. The red comb above is for dry detangling. The clear/gray comb is seamless and is for wet detangling. The two carbon combs in the pictures can be used for haircutting and hot tools respectively. A rattail comb is usually used for roller seting as well. The three-way comb is used for final styling.
Monday, May 13, 2013
I was really impressed that only two products was all she needed to get that shine thoughout her locks. The 99% pure aloe vera gel is natural so you can not really overuse it. She stated that the Joboba oil is expensive so she uses it conservatively. She did mention an occasional apple cider vinegar monthly rinse to get rid of lint, but she does not believe in all the different brand name products on the market with all the different ingredients in them. She is allergic to haircolor and wants to stick to as many natural solutions as possible.
I have also discovered that by using a color gloss or semi-permanent color, I also get incredible shine in the dreadlocks. Anyone who is permanently coloring their dreadlocks should consider the semi-permanent color in order to maintain a shine and seal.
Sunday, May 12, 2013
The curl pattern on the left is her natural curl pattern with some demi-permanent haircoloring. The one on the right was texturized with Fiberguard Affirm Mild relaxer for about 10 to 12 minutes. The real lesson is this: If your natural curl pattern does not look like the curl pattern on the left hand side of the picture, then you are not going to get the texturized curl pattern on the right hand side of the picture.
So for all those "kiddie perms" that people buy hoping for the "perfect" curl pattern. Just remember that your finished product really is determined by the type of curl pattern that you start with.
For some people the curl pattern on the left hand side may be the final texturized results based on a kinkier, coily curl pattern from the start. With this being the case, paying for a texturizing service may be a waste of time if you are still wanting the curl pattern on the right. These are the cases where I really would love for people to embrace locks. Even consider microlocks without investing heavily into the proprietary Sisterlocks.
There is another blogger at junglebarbie.blogspot.com that I absolutely adore . . . traditional locks can be so beautiful!
Well, Charles Ramsey has a haircut and a new image despite the mockery that he initially received for his candid interview and "mullet" hairstyling.
I am even going to forecast that Hollywood is going to cast him into future movies (plural). He has all the characteristics of a great actor. He interviews very well. He is at the start of something big! You can not pay for the magnitude of publicity he has received!
And if his camp is hiring in the future, I am fan, please consider me!!!!
Photo credits: ABCnews and salon.com