Phenomenal . . .

Phenomenal . . .
Life, Growth, and Connection (This sunflower was nourished by my hands.) 2010; Photography by Benita Blocker. Please become a follower of this blog.

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Wednesday, April 20, 2011

Relaxer steps: Conditioner or Shampoo first?

Avlon products started the concept of conditioning the hair right after the relaxer is rinsed out. Avlon is the makers of Affirm and Fiberguard Affirm relaxer systems. Mizani followed in Avlon's success with their Mizani Butter Blend Relaxer System. The concept of conditioning the hair while the hair cuticle is still open sounds good in theory, but notice the pH of the Sustenance Fortifying Treatment pictured here . . . it is at 4.5. It is hard for the hair that is still at an elevated pH level to accept the lower pH "conditioner." So many hairstylist sit clients under the dryer trying to get the conditioner to absorb better. On a different note, what if the relaxer residue would not rinse completely clean from the hair? Water and oil do not mix. Sometimes the relaxer client has an oily scalp, and there may be too much base in the hair. Conditioning the hair with relaxer residue still in the hair is not good especially when you know that a pH of 4.5 is designed to start shutting the hair cuticle. Hairdressers are human. If your stylists is double and triple booked, she is moving quickly from one head to another. Let's not forget that hairstylists get tired and sometimes hungry. Hairstylists are not machines so there are so many variables that could result in different results with each visit. Sometimes the clients' regimen at home could change as well. Weather changes can mean hair changes. My point is that there is nothing exact about a salon visit. I recommend shampooing after rinsing the relaxer out. Okay. There is an exception to every rule . . . Paul Mitchell is that exception.
Pictured is Paul Mitchell's Super Strengthener In process treatment. According to Paul Mitchell's customer service, the pH is from a 9 to 10. It absorbs instanteously without heat and at such an elevated pH, it is NOT trying to shut the hair cuticle down. It is the only conditioning treatment that I trust to use after rinsing a relaxer out and before a shampoo. Even if there is relaxer residue left in the hair (hoping not), but if so, the pH of the hair remains elevated until shampooing. There is still another conditioning process after the shampooing as well. Two conditioning steps instead of one. Please see my separate articles on Paul Mitchell Relaxer System.

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