Phenomenal . . .

Phenomenal . . .
Life, Growth, and Connection (This sunflower was nourished by my hands.) 2010; Photography by Benita Blocker. Please become a follower of this blog.

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Thursday, November 25, 2010

Self Gripping Curlers for rolling Commercial Hair

As you may know, commercial hair (i.e. human hair extensions and human hair wigs) take longer to dry during roller set services. These self-gripping curlers allow more air to penetrate through the roller resulting in quicker drying time. I do not suggest these curlers on porous ethnic hair nor fine hair. It does not seem to set properly.

Just use the rollers that you are accustomed to using on your own hair, and use these curlers on the extension hair only. It is okay if some of your hair overlaps with the extension hair on the curlers. Be careful not to pull too much.

To test if you are going to run into difficulty with these type of curlers. Use the rollers/curlers like a comb and run through the wet hair to be rolled. If it feels like it is going to tangle or catch, then do NOT use. If the wet hair slips through the roller, then roll to your heart's content!

Don't forget to consume your biotin every morning!

For years, women of all races with beautiful, vibrant hair would tell me that they always take their biotin every morning. After reading the benefits of this "vitamin," every woman should be adding this dietary supplement into their daily routine. Apparently, if you are eating restaurant foods alot or eating a lot of packaged foods, then you may be deficient. Biotin helps to maintain healthy hair and skin!

I found a good article at this website:

Tuesday, November 23, 2010

Tousled Hairstyling with two inch Flat Iron

After curling the entire head from nape to front with a 2 inch Chi Turbo Flat Iron, you can condense the curls by finger spiraling to see the definition. If the roots are not flat enough which happens with clients with some ethnicity, then take a half inch flat iron and smooth the roots out where needed. Focus on partings only when straightening roots. This client has not had a relaxer touchup in about three months. The extra texture gives more body to the rest of the style. Hair by Benita Blocker.
The client can then pull all of the hair toward the front to frame her face. There are no hair extensions in this style. Client does relaxer touchups about every 4 to 5 months, and no heat styling at home. Hair by Benita Blocker.
The client also has the option of separating the spiral curls to achieve the "sexy tousled" look! Hair by Benita Blocker.

Sunday, November 21, 2010

Sprinkle Powder for Thinning Hair

This sprinkle powder is made of keratin fibers. You color match and shake into any thin areas of your head. You then set the powder with a styling spray. It is a cosmetic enhancement that will rinse away with water.
Many people experience thinning. Whether you are on the road to thickening up or just trying to slow down the thinning process, image is tied into self-confidence. Using a cosmetic cover-up such as this powder sometimes requires some length for the fibers to fall on to the strands. The powder stacks or towers onto the strands and builds a thicker look. In this before picture, you can see some scalp peeking through.
After sprinkling, just mist with styling spray to keep the fibers from blowing away in the wind. These little cosmetic enhancements really help with image building as you are growing your own thickness back. This method allows the scalp to breath and hair to grow without being self-conscious in regards to image. In this after picture, you see more fullness. The powder can be used everyday.

Thursday, November 18, 2010

Flip Roller Set and Wrap

We used the purple magnetic rollers flipped upwards all over. This method delivers flatter roots and still a lot of body in the hair. I used all leave-in conditioners to set the hair. I was anticipating some flat ironing of the roots if I saw any "ripples" at the roots. Hair by Benita Blocker
Flipped Roller Set and Wrapped. Hair by Benita Blocker

Wednesday, November 17, 2010

Paul Mitchell Relaxer Testimony

This is the newest re-packaging of the Paul Mitchell relaxer/retexturizing system. I never tried his relaxers in the old packaging. However, I wanted to share some of the clients' feedback on this relaxer system. 1)Client "A" shared with me that she had a history of flaking, abnormally itchy scalp, and psoriasis flare ups with receiving relaxers in the past. She was willing to try the Paul Mitchell relaxer with my expertise in application. Last report: Three weeks after receiving the Paul Mitchell relaxer Super strength, she still had NO scalp disorders and NO scalp irritations. So we agreed that we were headed in the right direction. The styling is still a little harder because some hair was underprocessed due to the fact that she had a full head of "virgin" overcurly hair. The term "underprocessed" means that hair is more texturized than it is relaxed. (i.e. 50% curl reduction versus 85% curl reduction) Any underprocessed hair can overlapped in the next visit with a touch-up service if desired.

2) Client "B" was easy to burn within a few minutes with the application of most ethnic lye relaxer applications. She was also experiencing some hair density changes with the "sensitive scalp" relaxer applications. (i.e. thinning) So she trusted me to start with the Paul Mitchel "lye" relaxers and it worked! Over the last six months, she now has a healthier scalp, increase in hair density, and "NO BURNING" even with the Paul Mitchell "Super" strength application.

Most people are scared of the Super strength relaxer and rightfully so. I have found that the regular strength Design Essential relaxer is STRONGER than the super strength Paul Mitchell relaxer. Example: "Client C" usually received regular strength Design Essentials relaxer that she received every 3 months. However, the Paul Mitchell super strength relaxer that she received only held her for two months. She decided to return to the Design Essentials relaxer for her next touch-up service. She wanted "more bang for the buck."

It is safe to start out with Mild or Regular Strength Paul Mitchell relaxer system if you are not kinky-curly in curl pattern and you are not concerned with straightness. Typically, I start everyone out with regular strength Paul Mitchell relaxers and move up to super strength on future visits if hair appears underprocessed with the regular strength.

Hair that is underprocessed can cause styling challenges and "popping" from the tangles. So finding the right strength is important. I do not offer "Super" in any of the ethnic relaxer lines. This should give you a good perspective of my thoughts on relaxer comparisons as far as strength is concerned. I actually feel that Paul Mitchell has more conditioners built into his Super strength relaxer than the regular strength. I feel that sensitive scalp clients may experience more sensation with the regular strength Paul Mitchell relaxer than they do with the super strength. It sounds weird, but my experiences are leading me to that conclusion.

Fine, overcurly hair should stick with Regular strength Paul Mitchell relaxer. I also suggest adding the Mizani Butter Blend Microfusion Penetrating Treatment spray to use after the neutralizing shampooing phase in order to infuse the oils back into ethnic hair.

The neutralizing shampoos used with the Paul Mitchell relaxer system can be "over clarifying" for some ethnic hair in my opinion. I get the best results by adding extra conditioners (such as Mizani Butter Blend Microfusion) in addition to the Paul Mitchell recommended "Lavendar Mint" conditioner.

Now, as for me, It took me about 14 months to recover from the "Bodipher" experience on my own hair, but I could not have done it without the Paul Mitchell relaxer system! I have found the super strength gives me about 75% straightness. That is straight enough to keep it humidity resistant.

Who should consider Paul Mitchell relaxers as an option? Anyone with a sensitive scalp and is receiving sensitive scalp relaxers in the salon. Here is a link supporting the dangers of sensitive scalp relaxers:

Monday, November 15, 2010

Natural Hair: Divide and Conquer

Naturally curly hair usually fall in the curly or kinky-curly categories. After the conditioning and leave-in conditioning phase, you will determine whether or not to divide and conquer. Sometimes the curly hair is very manageable, and partitioning is not necessary. You just work your way through from nape to front. However, if you can tell during the wide-tooth comb-out phase that the hair is going to continuously tighten up, then yes, partition first. Keep clean part lines and divide into as many 7 to 11 sections.

Straightening, cut, and Styling by Hair Stylist Benita Blocker.

Sunday, November 14, 2010

Antique Blow-drying Comb

This comb actually blows out concentrated hot heat through the comb area. It was originally purchased in 1972. It is an antique from Norelco. [Formerly North American Phillips (Electrical) Company]

Getting all the haircolor from out of the tube

The full tube of haircolor is feed through the tool by manually turning the handle.
You can see the indentions in the tube from the haircolor having been squeezed out.

Sunday, November 7, 2010

Allergies to Permanent Haircolor Overview

If you are allergic to haircolor, you will know within a week of the color service completion. If you already know that you are allergic to PPD (PARA-PHENYLENEDIAMINE ), then this article is for you.

The best answer to your hair color allergies is to embrace your grey/white hair and avoid coloring it. However, if you are not ready to "go gray," then here's a compilation of what I have discovered from online resources as well as my own creative techniques.

Techniques: 1) Foiling away from the scalp, 2) using a frosting cap for shorter hair for more blending purposes, 3) adding two "Sweet n Low" (in the pink packages) to your color mixture to "neutralize" the ppd effects, 4) Rinsing the haircolor out with Sprite or Tomato Juice depending on if you are a redhead or not.

Hair color Product recommendations:1)Roux Fanci-full Temporary Haircolor Rinse - it is a leave-in product that blends grey in. The product does not give complete coverage. It is designed to shampoo out after one washing. It is only about $6 for a bottle. I still suggest performing a skin test for allergies. You can purchase from almost every beauty supply store.
2)Act by Nature/Palette by Nature - natural haircolor that must be ordered and shipped. It claims to be PPD-free; but it may not completely cover the grey. Some say it stains everything but the grey. I read the cost is about $24 a box. So if you are a resistant/white, then it may take multiple applications.
3)Act Naturals/Advanced Cosmetic Technologies - ppd free but may not cover grey on first application
4)Goldwell Elumen - direct dye; ppd-free. Highly recommended salon color.
5)Color the Gray by Light Mountain Natural - a henna based color.
6) Surya Henna - it is a special cream henna. Surya has shampoo and conditioner to help maintain the color. You may need heat lamps assist with color processing. There's a lot of positive feedback on how great the hair feels after Surya color application and Surya's after care products are used. The longer the usage; the happier the results.
7) Herbatint - there are two versions. One with PPD and the other is a type of henna.
8) Sanotint (light) - two versions. One with may have some PTD or PPD. The Sanotint Light version says 12 shades; no ppds.
9)Matrix Logics Imprint - it is a semi-permanent haircolor that claims to cover the grey for three weeks.
10)TIGI hair color or Schwarzkopf Igora Royal permanent hair color mixed with Trionic enzyme developer- - The Schwarzkopf is supposed to be ppd free. I suggest patch test!
11) L'Oreal Excellence to Go 10 minute Cream Colorant, L'oreal INOA, or L'Oreal Natural Match - INOA is supposed to be ammonia-free. I suggest patch test!

There is a lot of information on line; please visit for additional concerns about your health as it relates to on-going allergic reactions.

For more information on the product suggestions, then google on the different product lines that I suggested. You may be allergic to more than just ppd. So the information provided in this article is intended to assist you in your own personal quest without being biased to one particular product line. I look forward to your comments and feedback.

Tuesday, November 2, 2010

Schwarzkopf Igora10 minute haircolor

I just attended a class on Schwarzkopf's new 10 minute haircolor called Igora10. My salon is now offering this new innovative permanent haircolor! It works by Amino Acid Carrier Technology! (much smaller molecules; quicker absorption into the hair; even processing; no worries about demarcation lines)
The models' hair had incredible shine and good coverage for 10 minute application; 10 minute development. White/Grey resistant hair may need 15 minutes processing time and/or some heat. The "Speedlift" Blonde colors are not recommended for hair that is over 50% grey. This young model was a Speedlift at the roots with an eleven series. (11/0 plus 11/2)
The best candidates for Schwarzkopf's newest haircolor Igora10 are those with average density and/or short hair. The haircolor must get applied within 10 minutes and processed in 10 minutes or it may deposit two shades darker. So thick, long hair is not a good candidate for this type of haircolor because of the application time limit unless it is partial highlights service. It is hard to apply haircolor through a full head of long, dense hair in ten minutes!
The Schwarzkopf Education team completed eight cut/color models within four hours plus lunch break! The models' hair felt fantastic after the color service! The cuts were all edgy!